Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Update time! So, I had a chugging issue, every time I accelerated, turned, or went uphill. I added seafoam to a full tank, and towards the end of the tank, my suspicions were proven. The fuel filter was just FULL of varnish and chunks. Cleaned the carb as well as possible without removing her, removed the irl filter(can’t find replacement locally). And decided it was time to tackle this tank selecting issue once and for all... my neighbor and I spent all day at a backwoods salvage yard crawling under dual tank fords with absolutely no luck. This must be an after market, or oem one off from the factory... In the end, we wisened up and tested the valve on the truck, only to find out that it actually worked. So we dropped the rear tank, new fuel sending unit, filled with fresh gas, and off we went! The next time on the agenda, is the oem screw in filter, and an auxiliary inline filter to help with all the old gas and chunks. Oh, and weather stripping... Congrat's! You are peeling the onion, one layer at a time. Glad you got that figured out. On the OEM fuel filter, I've cut them apart and the only filter in them is a very coarse screen. I use a plastic see-through in-line filter instead. In fact, I've used two on vehicles with a tank that might let stuff go - one ahead of the pump and one after. But, I've also been stranded by the filters or even the carb getting plugged as the stuff in the tank can keep coming for quite some time. So you might consider replacing the tank. They are only about $100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Libarata Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 Congrat's! You are peeling the onion, one layer at a time. Glad you got that figured out. On the OEM fuel filter, I've cut them apart and the only filter in them is a very coarse screen. I use a plastic see-through in-line filter instead. In fact, I've used two on vehicles with a tank that might let stuff go - one ahead of the pump and one after. But, I've also been stranded by the filters or even the carb getting plugged as the stuff in the tank can keep coming for quite some time. So you might consider replacing the tank. They are only about $100. I was considering finding one of the large single tanks. But the rear tank actually looked relatively clean, just a tiny bit of sludge that washed out easy enough. If it keeps me replacing filters, then I’ll bite the bullet and find some replacement tanks haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Libarata Posted January 31, 2020 Author Share Posted January 31, 2020 Hey, so I have a question. Is smog pump deleting going to negatively affect my truck? Looks like I need to replace some rubber lines and vacuum hoses all around lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Hey, so I have a question. Is smog pump deleting going to negatively affect my truck? Looks like I need to replace some rubber lines and vacuum hoses all around lol Having scanned the previous comments I don't think we've established enough about your truck to answer that question. That's because we don't know if it has a computer managing the carb and timing. It probably came with one, but we don't know if it is still in command. If so then you can't just eliminate some things w/o causing the computer to get its knickers in a twist and lock the ignition timing to initial advance. And when that happens your MPG and power go away. So how 'bout showing us several pics of the under hood area? Specifically we need to see shots of the carb showing whatever electrical connections there are to it. And the ignition module, which may be on the driver's fender liner. And the distributor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted January 31, 2020 Share Posted January 31, 2020 Having scanned the previous comments I don't think we've established enough about your truck to answer that question. That's because we don't know if it has a computer managing the carb and timing. It probably came with one, but we don't know if it is still in command. If so then you can't just eliminate some things w/o causing the computer to get its knickers in a twist and lock the ignition timing to initial advance. And when that happens your MPG and power go away. So how 'bout showing us several pics of the under hood area? Specifically we need to see shots of the carb showing whatever electrical connections there are to it. And the ignition module, which may be on the driver's fender liner. And the distributor. you should be able to by a 3 port valve new - i just did in December. I haven't even installed it yet. I wanna say i bought it from walmart. Go figure. I can try and confirm the source if needed. It sounds like these fail so often that i was not interested in going to the trouble to find a used one seeing as it could easily be already failed or on its last legs. Beautiful color by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 you should be able to by a 3 port valve new - i just did in December. I haven't even installed it yet. I wanna say i bought it from walmart. Go figure. I can try and confirm the source if needed. It sounds like these fail so often that i was not interested in going to the trouble to find a used one seeing as it could easily be already failed or on its last legs. Beautiful color by the way. I found this one on amazon that looks very close other than having to change the connection for the wiring https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-FV1T-Selector/dp/B005ETOVZM/ref=pd_cp_263_1/141-0299147-5393463?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005ETOVZM&pd_rd_r=e4fadc95-59eb-4b0e-b997-5bbd69bde7cd&pd_rd_w=qIO1B&pd_rd_wg=iyCTy&pf_rd_p=592dc715-8438-4207-b7fa-4c7afdeb6112&pf_rd_r=Y451C303AC4ZAFFT2T8D&psc=1&refRID=Y451C303AC4ZAFFT2T8D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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