Danny G Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 How about locking out the overdrive to see what happens. And if that doesn't change anything then maybe put a light across the solenoid and extend the wires up into the cab to see if the light flickers when that happens. Sounds like a plan. Have to hit up the ATM Monday and Tuesday ($500/day limit- nonlocal branch)then will head over to get it maybe Wednesday. He is a gun guy, thought about maybe busting an old collectable out of my closest and seeing what he thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 Sounds like a plan. Have to hit up the ATM Monday and Tuesday ($500/day limit- nonlocal branch)then will head over to get it maybe Wednesday. He is a gun guy, thought about maybe busting an old collectable out of my closest and seeing what he thought. Sounds like you can even drive it home, right? Should be easy. And having a complete vehicle sitting there with all the goodies should make the swap much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 How about locking out the overdrive to see what happens. And if that doesn't change anything then maybe put a light across the solenoid and extend the wires up into the cab to see if the light flickers when that happens. He almost made it sound like it happens like clock work on the way home when he stops at a specific intersection. This is sound like a stall issue and not a misfire, probably why Ford replaced the transmission. I'm a bit wary in trusting people since the issues that happened when I bought my truck. He said the new transmission/install cost him around $3k that sounds about right. It looked pretty clean, there was a plastic box on the divers side of the transmission looked pretty pristine so I think he is telling the truth. Against the advice of others replaced it with a new not remaned unit couldn't solve the issue and he let it sit hoping to fix it one day. My wife isn't the happiest about the move, doesn't want another project. I had to explain that a E4OD with under 100 miles on it alone was a steal at $1000 let alone anything else I can use, even if I scrapped the block. Will have to incorporate that OD button from the column into the dash or something of the truck but that's another story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 He almost made it sound like it happens like clock work on the way home when he stops at a specific intersection. This is sound like a stall issue and not a misfire, probably why Ford replaced the transmission. I'm a bit wary in trusting people since the issues that happened when I bought my truck. He said the new transmission/install cost him around $3k that sounds about right. It looked pretty clean, there was a plastic box on the divers side of the transmission looked pretty pristine so I think he is telling the truth. Against the advice of others replaced it with a new not remaned unit couldn't solve the issue and he let it sit hoping to fix it one day. My wife isn't the happiest about the move, doesn't want another project. I had to explain that a E4OD with under 100 miles on it alone was a steal at $1000 let alone anything else I can use, even if I scrapped the block. Will have to incorporate that OD button from the column into the dash or something of the truck but that's another story. It is a steal @ $1000 for just the tranny alone. I paid $2400 for my E4OD, although it was seriously upgraded and has a very stout torque converter with it. If it does it at the same place each time, perhaps it is at the same point in the warm up of the engine or transmission? IOW, he gets to the same place from a cold start on his way to or from work and it hiccups? Or maybe the frame twists due to a weird angle of the road and a connection lets go? On the OD button, I'm hoping to use a later shift lever with the OD button in it when I do Dad's truck. Somehow incorporate the later shift lever in the Bullnose shifter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 It is a steal @ $1000 for just the tranny alone. I paid $2400 for my E4OD, although it was seriously upgraded and has a very stout torque converter with it. If it does it at the same place each time, perhaps it is at the same point in the warm up of the engine or transmission? IOW, he gets to the same place from a cold start on his way to or from work and it hiccups? Or maybe the frame twists due to a weird angle of the road and a connection lets go? On the OD button, I'm hoping to use a later shift lever with the OD button in it when I do Dad's truck. Somehow incorporate the later shift lever in the Bullnose shifter? Been doing some research on similar failures. Going to have to pull codes when the engine is running and warmer than it was. Others with a similar issue had leak in lines to the MAP sensor, bad map sensor, iac, egr issues, and bad ICM ground/voltage. So looks like it could ba a Gambit of things but gives me a place to start looking. None of those things were on the list of work done by the PO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 Been doing some research on similar failures. Going to have to pull codes when the engine is running and warmer than it was. Others with a similar issue had leak in lines to the MAP sensor, bad map sensor, iac, egr issues, and bad ICM ground/voltage. So looks like it could ba a Gambit of things but gives me a place to start looking. None of those things were on the list of work done by the PO. Good starting points. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 Been doing some research on similar failures. Going to have to pull codes when the engine is running and warmer than it was. Others with a similar issue had leak in lines to the MAP sensor, bad map sensor, iac, egr issues, and bad ICM ground/voltage. So looks like it could ba a Gambit of things but gives me a place to start looking. None of those things were on the list of work done by the PO. In addition to the codes (be sure your code reader can pull them) you really need to be able to read live data when it is acting up. You also need to take a good look at the transmission, by 1992 and definitely by 1995, Ford went to electronic speedometers in the trucks. This means no cable, early E4ODs used a cable with a speed sensor at the transmission end, later ones don't even have a hole for it. His issues could, believe it or not be caused by the speedometer PSOM as it generates the speed signal for the EEC and speed control systems. If you can add a speed sensor, the speed control one will work as far as I know, if not 1988-1991 models had the in-line one at the transmission. Once that is done you need a computer to control it, this means either convert your truck to EFI, or purchase a stand alone transmission controller from a company like Baumann, their Optishift seems to be quite nice. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, just warning you of some of the issues that I ran into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted November 17, 2019 Author Share Posted November 17, 2019 In addition to the codes (be sure your code reader can pull them) you really need to be able to read live data when it is acting up. You also need to take a good look at the transmission, by 1992 and definitely by 1995, Ford went to electronic speedometers in the trucks. This means no cable, early E4ODs used a cable with a speed sensor at the transmission end, later ones don't even have a hole for it. His issues could, believe it or not be caused by the speedometer PSOM as it generates the speed signal for the EEC and speed control systems. If you can add a speed sensor, the speed control one will work as far as I know, if not 1988-1991 models had the in-line one at the transmission. Once that is done you need a computer to control it, this means either convert your truck to EFI, or purchase a stand alone transmission controller from a company like Baumann, their Optishift seems to be quite nice. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, just warning you of some of the issues that I ran into. No I need all the Intel I can get. I'm hoping to be able to pull the whole Gambit (engine transmission, wire harness etc) out of this van as the van has the 4.9L EFI in it, mate it up with the Dakota digital gauge cluster. But if it gets too hairy that stand alone computer will be my fall back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 17, 2019 Share Posted November 17, 2019 In addition to the codes (be sure your code reader can pull them) you really need to be able to read live data when it is acting up. You also need to take a good look at the transmission, by 1992 and definitely by 1995, Ford went to electronic speedometers in the trucks. This means no cable, early E4ODs used a cable with a speed sensor at the transmission end, later ones don't even have a hole for it. His issues could, believe it or not be caused by the speedometer PSOM as it generates the speed signal for the EEC and speed control systems. If you can add a speed sensor, the speed control one will work as far as I know, if not 1988-1991 models had the in-line one at the transmission. Once that is done you need a computer to control it, this means either convert your truck to EFI, or purchase a stand alone transmission controller from a company like Baumann, their Optishift seems to be quite nice. I'm not trying to rain on your parade, just warning you of some of the issues that I ran into. No I need all the Intel I can get. I'm hoping to be able to pull the whole Gambit (engine transmission, wire harness etc) out of this van as the van has the 4.9L EFI in it, mate it up with the Dakota digital gauge cluster. But if it gets too hairy that stand alone computer will be my fall back. Some of the speed transducers have a speedo cable output to drive the speedometer. And if I get the Arduino working you should be able to use the Bullnose gas gauge as you may want to change the fuel pump/sending unit to the one in the van. Or go with a comparable pump/sending unit for a pickup fuel tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted November 19, 2019 Author Share Posted November 19, 2019 Some of the speed transducers have a speedo cable output to drive the speedometer. And if I get the Arduino working you should be able to use the Bullnose gas gauge as you may want to change the fuel pump/sending unit to the one in the van. Or go with a comparable pump/sending unit for a pickup fuel tank. You know I got to thinking, what if that "backfire" type sound I was hearing was detonation. The PO did say it had a misfire randomly. Maybe this is a likely issue. Sounded like a muffled pop from the engine bay now and again after it warmed up. I haven't heard a pinging engine before but I did have a 85 300 that backfired like it was cool when you let off the gas and it reminded me of that but softer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts