BeagleRock Posted January 25, 2020 Author Share Posted January 25, 2020 Not completely, not gonna lie. I'll go do that now. Thank You! Hi Gary it's been awhile since I've been back on the site. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year BTW. Referring to the your last post on this thread I did go back and complete the proper procedure for setting up the ignition switch and I still have to back off of the key switch to get her to start so I bought an ign. Switch for nothing. Anyway is there any other items that would cause this problem i.e.;starter solenoid or fusible link or maybe just a poor ground? Thanks Randy Brown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Hi Gary it's been awhile since I've been back on the site. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year BTW. Referring to the your last post on this thread I did go back and complete the proper procedure for setting up the ignition switch and I still have to back off of the key switch to get her to start so I bought an ign. Switch for nothing. Anyway is there any other items that would cause this problem i.e.;starter solenoid or fusible link or maybe just a poor ground? Thanks Randy Brown Randy - Do I understand correctly that you turn the key to Start and the engine cranks, but it doesn't actually run/fire until you turn the key back to Run? And that you've replaced the ignition switch itself and it didn't change? If that is right, then I think you have a wiring problem in the area circled. I say that because if there's no power to the red/light green wire in Start then you won't have any spark until you turn the key to Run. The way I'd test it is to pull the little red/light blue wire off the starter relay so the engine won't crank, put a meter or, better yet, test light on the coil where the red/light green connects, put the other lead to ground, and turn the key to Start. You are supposed to have power there in Start as well as Run. But my guess is that you don't have power there in Start. Just watched the weather on Channel 8 and tomorrow looks to be a good day to do that testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Randy - Do I understand correctly that you turn the key to Start and the engine cranks, but it doesn't actually run/fire until you turn the key back to Run? And that you've replaced the ignition switch itself and it didn't change? If that is right, then I think you have a wiring problem in the area circled. I say that because if there's no power to the red/light green wire in Start then you won't have any spark until you turn the key to Run. The way I'd test it is to pull the little red/light blue wire off the starter relay so the engine won't crank, put a meter or, better yet, test light on the coil where the red/light green connects, put the other lead to ground, and turn the key to Start. You are supposed to have power there in Start as well as Run. But my guess is that you don't have power there in Start. Just watched the weather on Channel 8 and tomorrow looks to be a good day to do that testing. I had a similar problem with an 80 LTD with a 351 W, engine would crank but wouldent start until you let off of the switch. It turned out to be the crank shaft poshion sensor. It took several hours and a brake out box to figure it out. Long and short of it was that the sensor was sending the reference voltage back to the ECM only in the "run" poshoin but not the "start" poshion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 Randy - Do I understand correctly that you turn the key to Start and the engine cranks, but it doesn't actually run/fire until you turn the key back to Run? And that you've replaced the ignition switch itself and it didn't change? If that is right, then I think you have a wiring problem in the area circled. I say that because if there's no power to the red/light green wire in Start then you won't have any spark until you turn the key to Run. The way I'd test it is to pull the little red/light blue wire off the starter relay so the engine won't crank, put a meter or, better yet, test light on the coil where the red/light green connects, put the other lead to ground, and turn the key to Start. You are supposed to have power there in Start as well as Run. But my guess is that you don't have power there in Start. Just watched the weather on Channel 8 and tomorrow looks to be a good day to do that testing. Yes you are correct Gary as I can start truck normally when using the remote starter connected to the solenoid and battery. I also discovered that there is a considerable amount of rust on the positive post of the solenoid which I'm about to resolve when I get back home. Thanks for the schematic also! I can't seem to find my test light but do have 3 multimeter's going back to my cash register repair business along with an oscilloscope. On a pleasant note National carb is sending me a new reman to replace the one that whistles Dixie. I put your dad's old carb on and it ran much better than the original one they sent me which is disheartening considering I paid $200+ for a bolt and go carburetor. I'm just sad that it took so long to convince someone that there's something wrong with the original one that was sent to me. Especially since they had ME replace the choke pulloff diaphragm and replace the #48 jets with #57's which was supposed to have been done prior to shipping out. Thanks for responding and have a great remainder of the weekend. 61 deg. Tomorrow 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 I had a similar problem with an 80 LTD with a 351 W, engine would crank but wouldent start until you let off of the switch. It turned out to be the crank shaft poshion sensor. It took several hours and a brake out box to figure it out. Long and short of it was that the sensor was sending the reference voltage back to the ECM only in the "run" poshoin but not the "start" poshion. Thanks for responding Pete, I disabled my eecIII system therefore eliminating the cps. I have a working one if you need for future use. Just let me know. Have a great weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Thanks for responding Pete, I disabled my eecIII system therefore eliminating the cps. I have a working one if you need for future use. Just let me know. Have a great weekend! Thanks for the offer. My Bronco has EECIV and it is intergrated into the halefect sensor. What are you running for an ignition system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted January 26, 2020 Author Share Posted January 26, 2020 Thanks for the offer. My Bronco has EECIV and it is intergrated into the halefect sensor. What are you running for an ignition system? Ok no problem, I'm running an HEi distributor these days, seems ok but I haven't really gotten to put miles on it not just a test drive to the convenience store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Yes you are correct Gary as I can start truck normally when using the remote starter connected to the solenoid and battery. I also discovered that there is a considerable amount of rust on the positive post of the solenoid which I'm about to resolve when I get back home. Thanks for the schematic also! I can't seem to find my test light but do have 3 multimeter's going back to my cash register repair business along with an oscilloscope. On a pleasant note National carb is sending me a new reman to replace the one that whistles Dixie. I put your dad's old carb on and it ran much better than the original one they sent me which is disheartening considering I paid $200+ for a bolt and go carburetor. I'm just sad that it took so long to convince someone that there's something wrong with the original one that was sent to me. Especially since they had ME replace the choke pulloff diaphragm and replace the #48 jets with #57's which was supposed to have been done prior to shipping out. Thanks for responding and have a great remainder of the weekend. 61 deg. Tomorrow 😁 Glad you are getting another carb. What a pain! As for scopes, I have a scope that I recently used on a Honda to determine that the computer was sending a signal to the coil-on-plug system for all cylinders, although #2 doesn't always run. And I have multimeters, but I've always wanted a Fluke. Yesterday Brandon/Bruno2 (from BA) told me about a new Fluke 233 that's for sale at a good price. I'm thinking..... Anyway, it was a nice weekend. But Caroline Brown just mentioned snow in the middle of this coming week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeagleRock Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Glad you are getting another carb. What a pain! As for scopes, I have a scope that I recently used on a Honda to determine that the computer was sending a signal to the coil-on-plug system for all cylinders, although #2 doesn't always run. And I have multimeters, but I've always wanted a Fluke. Yesterday Brandon/Bruno2 (from BA) told me about a new Fluke 233 that's for sale at a good price. I'm thinking..... Anyway, it was a nice weekend. But Caroline Brown just mentioned snow in the middle of this coming week. Her last name is Brown, she must be wrong 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Her last name is Brown, she must be wrong 😉 You know of whom I speak, I'm sure. We were at The Mercantile in Pawhuska one day a year or so ago and she was there as well. I talked with her for a while and enjoy seeing her on TV. But she and Dan Threlkeld are now saying it'll snow tomorrow night, and so far they've been wrong every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts