Fog Light Bezel, Switch, etc

[Gary Lewis]

Awesome work Gary!

I stuck with fractions just because that is what my drill bit set was for measuring radii, but as I made more and more measurements I was thinking I should have done metric or decimal inch. Glad you got it all sorted out, and sorry for the confusion.

The computer drawings are very convincing! Only thing I wonder about is the line width on the lettering. The bolding only widened the vertical lines which really changed the look of the font a ~lot. The actual bezel font looks like the un bolded type but with thicker lines.

I'm really excited to see how this prints out in plastic!

Thanks. I'm excited to see it as well. I've saved this one in several states of the build so that it will be fairly easy to make changes. For instance, I'm not sure that I picked the right radius for the fillet on the top of the bead. The flat looks a bit wide to me, so we may need to tweak that.

And the stud length is one I picked. I put my instrument bezel on a dash and measured from the front of the bezel to the instrument panel: .550". So I picked .500 and made the studs that. But, that's probably too long and we may want to trim them.

Also, I have the ability to put threads on things, so was wondering about threading the studs 1/4-20. Might make securing the thing easier as we won't have to find 1/4" speed nuts.

By the way, if you get a chance to post a pic or two of the switch before you get away I'd probably spend some time looking for a replacement.

[Ford F834]

Thanks. I'm excited to see it as well. I've saved this one in several states of the build so that it will be fairly easy to make changes. For instance, I'm not sure that I picked the right radius for the fillet on the top of the bead. The flat looks a bit wide to me, so we may need to tweak that.

And the stud length is one I picked. I put my instrument bezel on a dash and measured from the front of the bezel to the instrument panel: .550". So I picked .500 and made the studs that. But, that's probably too long and we may want to trim them.

Also, I have the ability to put threads on things, so was wondering about threading the studs 1/4-20. Might make securing the thing easier as we won't have to find 1/4" speed nuts.

By the way, if you get a chance to post a pic or two of the switch before you get away I'd probably spend some time looking for a replacement.

Gary if you could make the studs 1/4 20 threads that would be awesome. I think that would be way better than speed nuts.

I will post some pics of the switch tomorrow, and get a measurement on the arm length.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary if you could make the studs 1/4 20 threads that would be awesome. I think that would be way better than speed nuts.

I will post some pics of the switch tomorrow, and get a measurement on the arm length.

I agree that threaded studs would be much better. Speed nuts cut their own threads, and we don't know how robust the plastic that they use will be, so it would be possible for the speed nut to gall and then the stud break off. And since it shouldn't cost any more to make the stud with threads then why not. But, I might go 1/4-28 since that will give more threads that the nut captures and, therefore, make it less likely that anything will break.

And, we will want to think about how long the studs are. Ron - can you measure yours? I'm pretty sure the .500" length that I have them will be fine, but we should check. But the original studs were designed to be melted, so may be shorter than what we need. After all, we will need both a nut and a washer.

[PetesPonies]

I agree that threaded studs would be much better. Speed nuts cut their own threads, and we don't know how robust the plastic that they use will be, so it would be possible for the speed nut to gall and then the stud break off. And since it shouldn't cost any more to make the stud with threads then why not. But, I might go 1/4-28 since that will give more threads that the nut captures and, therefore, make it less likely that anything will break.

And, we will want to think about how long the studs are. Ron - can you measure yours? I'm pretty sure the .500" length that I have them will be fine, but we should check. But the original studs were designed to be melted, so may be shorter than what we need. After all, we will need both a nut and a washer.

You can use the press on retainers rather than speed nuts if you fear the strength factor.

[reamer]

You can use the press on retainers rather than speed nuts if you fear the strength factor.

H Gary

Your stud placement is off.

Just as you have (upside down)

Diameter of studs is 0.248 (call it .250 if you want)

But

the stud by up-side down "Off" (from center of stud) left edge to center of stud = 0.675"

Top edge (actually bottom edge) to CL of same stud = 0.297"

The other Stud, The top stud by the "ON" From left edge to CL of stud = 0.8185". Bottom edge to CL of stud =.4215"

Spread sheet #15.., Answer is Yes..

[reamer]

H Gary

Your stud placement is off.

Just as you have (upside down)

Diameter of studs is 0.248 (call it .250 if you want)

But

the stud by up-side down "Off" (from center of stud) left edge to center of stud = 0.675"

Top edge (actually bottom edge) to CL of same stud = 0.297"

The other Stud, The top stud by the "ON" From left edge to CL of stud = 0.8185". Bottom edge to CL of stud =.4215"

Spread sheet #15.., Answer is Yes..

Would a Bronco "Rear Window" switch work? they are available, but I don't know if it has a spring loaded lever. (not stay in the "ON" or "OFF" positions by its self.....

[Gary Lewis]

H Gary

Your stud placement is off.

Just as you have (upside down)

Diameter of studs is 0.248 (call it .250 if you want)

But

the stud by up-side down "Off" (from center of stud) left edge to center of stud = 0.675"

Top edge (actually bottom edge) to CL of same stud = 0.297"

The other Stud, The top stud by the "ON" From left edge to CL of stud = 0.8185". Bottom edge to CL of stud =.4215"

Spread sheet #15.., Answer is Yes..

Pete - I just checked and a 1/4-28 nut is .492" in diameter and it just barely hangs over the slot ever so slightly when on the bottom stud, and maybe not at all if the nut is stopped at just the right spot. However, a press-on may be wider and hang out in the breeze. Assuming we have the rubber piece between the bezels that might not be a problem, but it would probably require the rubber piece.

Ron - I don't know about the rear window switch. Let's wait to see what Jonathan's pics of the real thing look like since the tank selector switch is still available, is a two position, and has the narrow arm to take the knob. I have one and will see if I can figure out how to mount it once we have the bezel sorted.

As for the bezel, I hope I understood your measurements correctly:

And, here's a shot with 1/4-28 all-thread put in place of the studs:

And another view:

Lastly, I give you the finished (I hope) piece:

 

[reamer]

Pete - I just checked and a 1/4-28 nut is .492" in diameter and it just barely hangs over the slot ever so slightly when on the bottom stud, and maybe not at all if the nut is stopped at just the right spot. However, a press-on may be wider and hang out in the breeze. Assuming we have the rubber piece between the bezels that might not be a problem, but it would probably require the rubber piece.

Ron - I don't know about the rear window switch. Let's wait to see what Jonathan's pics of the real thing look like since the tank selector switch is still available, is a two position, and has the narrow arm to take the knob. I have one and will see if I can figure out how to mount it once we have the bezel sorted.

As for the bezel, I hope I understood your measurements correctly:

And, here's a shot with 1/4-28 all-thread put in place of the studs:

And another view:

Lastly, I give you the finished (I hope) piece:

Hi Gary

Ill check tomorrow. On the road tonight.....

Thanks!

[Ford F834]

Pete - I just checked and a 1/4-28 nut is .492" in diameter and it just barely hangs over the slot ever so slightly when on the bottom stud, and maybe not at all if the nut is stopped at just the right spot. However, a press-on may be wider and hang out in the breeze. Assuming we have the rubber piece between the bezels that might not be a problem, but it would probably require the rubber piece.

Ron - I don't know about the rear window switch. Let's wait to see what Jonathan's pics of the real thing look like since the tank selector switch is still available, is a two position, and has the narrow arm to take the knob. I have one and will see if I can figure out how to mount it once we have the bezel sorted.

As for the bezel, I hope I understood your measurements correctly:

And, here's a shot with 1/4-28 all-thread put in place of the studs:

And another view:

Lastly, I give you the finished (I hope) piece:

Hi Gary,

The bronco rear glass switches are spring loaded momentary type if I remember right, and so are the bronco rear window defrost switches...

Here are some pics of my switch. Some look cosmetically different than mine, but there really isn't much to it. The length of the lever from base to tip of the flat blade is 1.15" and the stick out of the threaded piece is 0.25". If it would be helpful I can loan you the switch, as it is small and easy to mail.

[Gary Lewis]

Hi Gary,

The bronco rear glass switches are spring loaded momentary type if I remember right, and so are the bronco rear window defrost switches...

Here are some pics of my switch. Some look cosmetically different than mine, but there really isn't much to it. The length of the lever from base to tip of the flat blade is 1.15" and the stick out of the threaded piece is 0.25". If it would be helpful I can loan you the switch, as it is small and easy to mail.

Jonathan - I don't think I need to get my hands on it as your dimensions are probably adequate. It looks like the pivot is a ball right at the end of the barrel. Given that and your measurements I have a good idea what is needed.

Thanks, I'll do some more Googling.