WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[rcarlisle]

All I had a chance to do this weekend was paint the bumper silver and black background on the Explorer badge. Also got new taillights from carparts.com. Drivers was chipped and cracked, so they are supposed to send me a replacement.

[85lebaront2]

In the Q&A Mike says it fits his '83 F-150, so I don't see why it wouldn't fit any 1989 & up F-series chassis using a Windsor.

Thats good to know then. I was curious about it at the time, but seeing as I already talked the guy down $50 on his price and committed to buying and actually already paid for the NOS oil pan its something that I cant change now.

But it would have made life easier on me putting a windage tray in but I skipped the windage tray cause I kept hearing that main studs wont fit with the OE truck pan as youll have to use bolts on the rear main as the pan kicks towards the sump fairly quickly in an attempt to act as a baffle to keep the pickup submerged at angles.

Youd think they would make a windage tray kit that uses OE style bolts with a stud coming up off the head of the bolt. They use one for the oil pump pickup tube and the windage tray isnt anything to write home about structurally no different than the oil pump pickup.

Its also like ARP, I would love to get the timing cover/water pump bolt kit they sell but I dont see any OE style bolts with the stud on the top I have to double check my truck but I believe there is one or two like that for the dealer A/C bracket to bolt to via a nut.

The other thing I am kind of throwing around in my head lately is on the painting. Initially I had planned on assembling the motor as much as possible and using Eastwood 2K engine primer and 2K dark ford corporate blue on everything from aluminum intake to my ARP aluminum heads down to the oil pan. But now I am wondering if I should omit the intake manifold and pick up some 2K engine paint in an aluminum color to preserve the bare look of the aluminum intake. Im also wondering how I could grind the intake down to remove the 289 off the intake runner as I really dont like how the 289/302 Performer Intake still says Performer 289. Would have got the one that said Performer 302 but it lacks the extra boss for drilling into the water jacket for an extra temp sensor which I need for my Sniper Stealth, then the vacuum port in the back of the intake is right where the OE throttle bracket will go which means I cant hook up my OE vacuum tree to provide vacuum for my OE systems like the brake booster and the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Was kind of forced into running the Performer I got which sucks, I know I can grind the 289 off and in fact i could grind the Performer name off as well but not sure how I could duplicate the cast aluminum texture where I grind to blend it all in but I have time to think on this as I am still waiting on my engine stand to come in as my current engine stand is still being used for my other project and I still havent got my short block from Creb Engineering I dont know whats going on but I dont want to bother him with constant emails so I am waiting till the 30 day time frame is up to contact him and see whats going on with my build. I know its quite possible he is back logged waiting on parts, lots of parts are out of stock right now when you go looking on jegs or summit.

Rusty, Summit lists the 460 pan as a "foxbody swap" item, yet in cross referencing the SPI number it is the late truck EFI 460 pan and dipstick, tube and pickup along with the one piece gasket.

As for the short "kickup" on the 460s the left side exhaust pipe passes under there (which makes removing the pan in chassis a royal pain). Ford was at least concerned enough about heat to have a shield welded to the exhaust Y pipe there.

[Rusty_S85]

Rusty, Summit lists the 460 pan as a "foxbody swap" item, yet in cross referencing the SPI number it is the late truck EFI 460 pan and dipstick, tube and pickup along with the one piece gasket.

As for the short "kickup" on the 460s the left side exhaust pipe passes under there (which makes removing the pan in chassis a royal pain). Ford was at least concerned enough about heat to have a shield welded to the exhaust Y pipe there.

Ah ok.

Only thing I am wondering about now is if one could use those main bolts with the stud to attach a windage tray. I didnt see the need to pay extra for main studs especially since I knew I would be using the truck pan and everyone that I asked seems to think the studs wouldnt clear the pan at the rear main. At least if one were to do that it wouldnt change the clamping force of the mains so it shouldnt change the bearing clearance.

Its a shame ARP doesnt sell those bolts individually with the studs like that.

[Gary Lewis]

Rusty, Summit lists the 460 pan as a "foxbody swap" item, yet in cross referencing the SPI number it is the late truck EFI 460 pan and dipstick, tube and pickup along with the one piece gasket.

As for the short "kickup" on the 460s the left side exhaust pipe passes under there (which makes removing the pan in chassis a royal pain). Ford was at least concerned enough about heat to have a shield welded to the exhaust Y pipe there.

Ah ok.

Only thing I am wondering about now is if one could use those main bolts with the stud to attach a windage tray. I didnt see the need to pay extra for main studs especially since I knew I would be using the truck pan and everyone that I asked seems to think the studs wouldnt clear the pan at the rear main. At least if one were to do that it wouldnt change the clamping force of the mains so it shouldnt change the bearing clearance.

Its a shame ARP doesnt sell those bolts individually with the studs like that.

I haven't done anything to my trucks in THREE WEEKS!

As some of you know, that's 'cause I've been visiting my kids and grandkids during that time. We drove 3500 miles from OK to SC to FL, and back.

Many thanks to y'all for keeping things going here while I was gone. In fact, I think things may have been busier than ever!

[Nothing Special]

I haven't done anything to my trucks in THREE WEEKS!

As some of you know, that's 'cause I've been visiting my kids and grandkids during that time. We drove 3500 miles from OK to SC to FL, and back.

Many thanks to y'all for keeping things going here while I was gone. In fact, I think things may have been busier than ever!

I figured something must be going on to explain the change in your posting patterns. Glad to hear it was something good!

[Gary Lewis]

I figured something must be going on to explain the change in your posting patterns. Glad to hear it was something good!

It was GOOD! Hadn't seen the grandtwins in 6 months and the grand daughter in a year, which is waaaaay too long!

But I'm now ready to "keep on trucking".

[Rusty_S85]

I haven't done anything to my trucks in THREE WEEKS!

As some of you know, that's 'cause I've been visiting my kids and grandkids during that time. We drove 3500 miles from OK to SC to FL, and back.

Many thanks to y'all for keeping things going here while I was gone. In fact, I think things may have been busier than ever!

I know how that feels. I been trying to get a engine stand from jegs since March had to order twice first one got lost when fedex picked it up in Ohio this second order was supposed to be delivered last thursday it wasnt it was delayed to today and now today it says its delayed again to tomorrow as the barcode label was unreadable so it was replaced at 10:15am today. So yeah you cant throw it on the truck today when fedex does deliveries as late as 7pm? just screw me yet again by having me wait till tomorrow.

I hope it isnt damaged cause if it is damaged I am contacting jegs saying I am not accepting this stand if it is in anyway damaged. They need to stop using fedex they are the worse shipping company.

At least I am still waiting on my short block the 30 day limit is coming up since I paid and I will be forced to message him as I dont know if he started the build or if there is a delay or not but I figure I would give Creb Engineering the time he stated before I inquire.

[Jochen1964]

I haven't done anything to my trucks in THREE WEEKS! :nabble_smiley_cry:As some of you know, that's 'cause I've been visiting my kids and grandkids during that time. We drove 3500 miles from OK to SC to FL, and back.Many thanks to y'all for keeping things going here while I was gone. In fact, I think things may have been busier than ever!

I know how that feels. I been trying to get a engine stand from jegs since March had to order twice first one got lost when fedex picked it up in Ohio this second order was supposed to be delivered last thursday it wasnt it was delayed to today and now today it says its delayed again to tomorrow as the barcode label was unreadable so it was replaced at 10:15am today. So yeah you cant throw it on the truck today when fedex does deliveries as late as 7pm? just screw me yet again by having me wait till tomorrow.I hope it isnt damaged cause if it is damaged I am contacting jegs saying I am not accepting this stand if it is in anyway damaged. They need to stop using fedex they are the worse shipping company.At least I am still waiting on my short block the 30 day limit is coming up since I paid and I will be forced to message him as I dont know if he started the build or if there is a delay or not but I figure I would give Creb Engineering the time he stated before I inquire.

My patch panels arrived today, finally. The international ordering and shipping process is somewhat complex at LMC and requires manual intervention via telephone. However the parts are here and I can proceed and I was able to redeem the $50 gift card which we won for best story. Thanks again for those who voted for us. 

 

Viele GrüßeJochen

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Gary Lewis]

Excellent! Glad the gift card worked for you, and that you got the parts.

[Rusty_S85]

In the Q&A Mike says it fits his '83 F-150, so I don't see why it wouldn't fit any 1989 & up F-series chassis using a Windsor.

Thats good to know then. I was curious about it at the time, but seeing as I already talked the guy down $50 on his price and committed to buying and actually already paid for the NOS oil pan its something that I cant change now.

But it would have made life easier on me putting a windage tray in but I skipped the windage tray cause I kept hearing that main studs wont fit with the OE truck pan as youll have to use bolts on the rear main as the pan kicks towards the sump fairly quickly in an attempt to act as a baffle to keep the pickup submerged at angles.

Youd think they would make a windage tray kit that uses OE style bolts with a stud coming up off the head of the bolt. They use one for the oil pump pickup tube and the windage tray isnt anything to write home about structurally no different than the oil pump pickup.

Its also like ARP, I would love to get the timing cover/water pump bolt kit they sell but I dont see any OE style bolts with the stud on the top I have to double check my truck but I believe there is one or two like that for the dealer A/C bracket to bolt to via a nut.

The other thing I am kind of throwing around in my head lately is on the painting. Initially I had planned on assembling the motor as much as possible and using Eastwood 2K engine primer and 2K dark ford corporate blue on everything from aluminum intake to my ARP aluminum heads down to the oil pan. But now I am wondering if I should omit the intake manifold and pick up some 2K engine paint in an aluminum color to preserve the bare look of the aluminum intake. Im also wondering how I could grind the intake down to remove the 289 off the intake runner as I really dont like how the 289/302 Performer Intake still says Performer 289. Would have got the one that said Performer 302 but it lacks the extra boss for drilling into the water jacket for an extra temp sensor which I need for my Sniper Stealth, then the vacuum port in the back of the intake is right where the OE throttle bracket will go which means I cant hook up my OE vacuum tree to provide vacuum for my OE systems like the brake booster and the vacuum modulator on the transmission. Was kind of forced into running the Performer I got which sucks, I know I can grind the 289 off and in fact i could grind the Performer name off as well but not sure how I could duplicate the cast aluminum texture where I grind to blend it all in but I have time to think on this as I am still waiting on my engine stand to come in as my current engine stand is still being used for my other project and I still havent got my short block from Creb Engineering I dont know whats going on but I dont want to bother him with constant emails so I am waiting till the 30 day time frame is up to contact him and see whats going on with my build. I know its quite possible he is back logged waiting on parts, lots of parts are out of stock right now when you go looking on jegs or summit.

Why cant Ford make this simple. I am now going on day 3 I think it is now trying to figure out if there is a difference in C6 transmissions as far as starter location goes.

I thought all C6 transmissions came with a 164 tooth flex plate which is 14.25" diameter but when looking at flexplates as I want to buy a new aftermarket flexplate in 50oz imbalance for my engine build I keep seeing 157 tooth flex plates for the C6 which is a 13.25" diameter. That 1" decrease in diameter means the flexplate on the starter side will be 1/4" smaller which would in my opinion mean with a 164 tooth bellhousing and block plate would never engage the teeth on a 157 tooth flexplate. The problem I might have is I am wanting to have broader performance build me a 750hp C6 wide ratio transmission with a 8tooth speedometer gear output shaft with a valve body tow shift kit, big block servo piston and black stripe vacuum modulator which from all the reading Ive done has a wider adjustability for fine tuning part throttle shift points. If I do this and there is a difference I very well may end up with a C6 for a 157 tooth flex plate and if I retain the correct truck size 164 tooth flex plate and block plate then when I go to put the transmission in it wont fit as the bell housing from what I saw some state will have a ID just big enough for the correct flexplate and a 164 tooth flexplate will not fit in a 157tooth bellhousing but I cant get verification on this cause everything I am reading flips back and forth between C4 and C6.

I could just pull my transmission and ship it to Broader Performance and have him build it for me but he stresses he takes his time to make sure its right and could be a 6 month turn around but that was pre virus. I cant let my truck sit after putting a new engine and fuel injection in it for months, my plan was to drive the truck around till the new transmission comes in then do a quick swap around and be done.