Gsmblue Posted January 27, 2021 Share Posted January 27, 2021 The factory choke is hot air heated with electric assist. The kit I bought from Mike eliminates the hot air heated choke/electric assist for a straight electric choke. The little black cube is a heat sensor that goes under a head bolt that varies the voltage to the choke by a variable resistance to ground. In my mind just like a temp gauge sender works for your engine temp gauge. From my research the electric assist does not operate under a certain temp but I can't remember what temp or where I read that, possibly read that in my Haynes Ford Truck repair manual. Well, mixed bag for my truck today. The shop said there were leaks at the intake manifold and timing chain cover that are probably responsible for the coolant getting into the oil and exhaust, $850. So that is being taken care of next week, that is the good news. The bad news, on the way home, I locked up on ice at a stop sign and went through a T junction, clipped the red post protecting the fire hydrant with the passenger side bumper then got stopped by a big bush, was barely going 5mph. Only damage is red paint on the very side of the bumper and a crease on the top of the bumper and a dent to the ego, I got lucky. Could have been a lot worse. Been talking about getting those tires siped for weeks. I drive that junction every day it is right behind my house. I lost concentration for a moment and had a huge long skid, pumping the breaks, barely able to turn away from the hydrant. Time for a cup of tea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 27, 2021 Author Share Posted January 27, 2021 Well, mixed bag for my truck today. The shop said there were leaks at the intake manifold and timing chain cover that are probably responsible for the coolant getting into the oil and exhaust, $850. So that is being taken care of next week, that is the good news. The bad news, on the way home, I locked up on ice at a stop sign and went through a T junction, clipped the red post protecting the fire hydrant with the passenger side bumper then got stopped by a big bush, was barely going 5mph. Only damage is red paint on the very side of the bumper and a crease on the top of the bumper and a dent to the ego, I got lucky. Could have been a lot worse. Been talking about getting those tires siped for weeks. I drive that junction every day it is right behind my house. I lost concentration for a moment and had a huge long skid, pumping the breaks, barely able to turn away from the hydrant. Time for a cup of tea. Bummer! Glad you walked away and that the damage is so slight. Could have been a lot worse. Hope the engine repair goes as easily as they said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 Bummer! Glad you walked away and that the damage is so slight. Could have been a lot worse. Hope the engine repair goes as easily as they said. Thanks Gary. Here is a pic. I really liked my interaction with the people at this shop. Hopefully it pans out with them and I can use them to do the jobs I can’t. Any recommendations on how to un-kink the bumper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 Thanks Gary. Here is a pic. I really liked my interaction with the people at this shop. Hopefully it pans out with them and I can use them to do the jobs I can’t. Any recommendations on how to un-kink the bumper? I hope it pans out well. Having a good shop you can rely on would be very helpful. On the bumper, the best approach I can think of would be to have a comealong or winch that went between a strap around the outboard end of the bumper and an immovable object. Put force on it to pull the bumper forward and hit the crease with a plastic-faced deadblow hammer to take it down on top and up on bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 On the bumper, the best approach I can think of would be to have a comealong or winch that went between a strap around the outboard end of the bumper and an immovable object. Put force on it to pull the bumper forward and hit the crease with a plastic-faced deadblow hammer to take it down on top and up on bottom. Or, Gary, perhaps you can remember straightening the very similar one I brought to Skiatook, years ago. It was the original one from my truck. Chris Tubutis wanted it and you and he straightened it with the press in your shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 28, 2021 Author Share Posted January 28, 2021 On the bumper, the best approach I can think of would be to have a comealong or winch that went between a strap around the outboard end of the bumper and an immovable object. Put force on it to pull the bumper forward and hit the crease with a plastic-faced deadblow hammer to take it down on top and up on bottom. Or, Gary, perhaps you can remember straightening the very similar one I brought to Skiatook, years ago. It was the original one from my truck. Chris Tubutis wanted it and you and he straightened it with the press in your shop. David - Thanks for reminding me as I'd forgotten. A press would be good for the last step of getting the "buckled" places out of the upper and lower faces, but the end of the bumper really needs to be pulled back into position first. And it'll have to be taken past the final position in order for it to spring back to where it should be. But after the bumper is straightened the "buckled" spots will still remain, and that's where a press would come in really handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsmblue Posted January 28, 2021 Share Posted January 28, 2021 David - Thanks for reminding me as I'd forgotten. A press would be good for the last step of getting the "buckled" places out of the upper and lower faces, but the end of the bumper really needs to be pulled back into position first. And it'll have to be taken past the final position in order for it to spring back to where it should be. But after the bumper is straightened the "buckled" spots will still remain, and that's where a press would come in really handy. Thanks for the advice, I will try this at the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Thanks for the advice, I will try this at the weekend. MOOG CC822 coils and upper/lower ball joints. Front brake rotors/pads. Raised the front up just a bit to better match the fresh leafs in the back. I expect they'll settle in some more with time. A ball joint press and impact wrench are a must. Unless you have a floor hydraulic press... Drives like new! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Hi everybody. Its been a little while and to cold to realy do anything outside. It went up to 75 yesterday so we were able to change the carpet in Brutus which can be quite fun in 25 mph wind, LOL. Well Brutus has racked up close to 600 miles since going back on the road, and other then the broken bolt issue in the head from the thermostat housing, he's doing great. Still having the issue with the yfa coming loose from the manifold. Was riding around last night through the neighborhood, and you can always tell in the truck. when you come to a stop, when the truck stops, it will act like it wants to kill, just a small stumble then it catches itself. Sure enough, the bolts worked there way loose again. I did put thread lock on them. I'm thinking about going in with some studs and putting 2 nuts on each side in hoping that will finally solve this problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 1, 2021 Author Share Posted February 1, 2021 Hi everybody. Its been a little while and to cold to realy do anything outside. It went up to 75 yesterday so we were able to change the carpet in Brutus which can be quite fun in 25 mph wind, LOL. Well Brutus has racked up close to 600 miles since going back on the road, and other then the broken bolt issue in the head from the thermostat housing, he's doing great. Still having the issue with the yfa coming loose from the manifold. Was riding around last night through the neighborhood, and you can always tell in the truck. when you come to a stop, when the truck stops, it will act like it wants to kill, just a small stumble then it catches itself. Sure enough, the bolts worked there way loose again. I did put thread lock on them. I'm thinking about going in with some studs and putting 2 nuts on each side in hoping that will finally solve this problem Ty - It is looking GOOD! It is amazing how much better they drive with all new suspension. And I see a Bilstein shock under there. Do you like them? George! We've been missing you! Glad you are back. On the carb, have you tried the orange thread locker? Supposed to have 3x the strength of blue but can still be removed w/o heating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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