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You need to make sure there isnt any corrosion on the copper of the printed board, or on the contacts of the bulb socket. The bulbs themselves could have corrosion on the leads coming through the glass from the filament. Take a multimeter, turn lights on, and trying measuring for voltage across the contacts of the pcb (printed circuit board)at each bulb terminal.

Try visually inspecting the printed board.

Completly remove the gauage cluster. Can someone remind me how to remove the speedo cable? I think that is the most dufficult part of removing the cluster if I remember correctly. After you remove it, you will be able to inspect the circuit board for broken circuits much easier.

That's what I did when I just replaced mine. I pulled the bulbs & then took 0000 steel wool & carefully cleaned up the copper areas on the printed board where the bulb sockets made contact. It was caramel brown in color & when I got done it looks like shiny copper. They all work like a charm now. Just posted a thread on my new lights...

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That's what I did when I just replaced mine. I pulled the bulbs & then took 0000 steel wool & carefully cleaned up the copper areas on the printed board where the bulb sockets made contact. It was caramel brown in color & when I got done it looks like shiny copper. They all work like a charm now. Just posted a thread on my new lights...

I don't know about the ribbon but we use ultra fine (gray) scotch brite routinely to clean up bare copper requiring 0.015 mOhm max bond resistance and boy does it come out bright and shiny, they make white stuff too that is even finer. Benefit is no steel fibers wandering where you don't want them causing a latent short down the road.

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That's what I did when I just replaced mine. I pulled the bulbs & then took 0000 steel wool & carefully cleaned up the copper areas on the printed board where the bulb sockets made contact. It was caramel brown in color & when I got done it looks like shiny copper. They all work like a charm now. Just posted a thread on my new lights...

I don't know about the ribbon but we use ultra fine (gray) scotch brite routinely to clean up bare copper requiring 0.015 mOhm max bond resistance and boy does it come out bright and shiny, they make white stuff too that is even finer. Benefit is no steel fibers wandering where you don't want them causing a latent short down the road.

Yeah I hear that with the steel fibers. I made sure I blew the cluster out with air but def good to know for the future.

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That's what I did when I just replaced mine. I pulled the bulbs & then took 0000 steel wool & carefully cleaned up the copper areas on the printed board where the bulb sockets made contact. It was caramel brown in color & when I got done it looks like shiny copper. They all work like a charm now. Just posted a thread on my new lights...

I don't know about the ribbon but we use ultra fine (gray) scotch brite routinely to clean up bare copper requiring 0.015 mOhm max bond resistance and boy does it come out bright and shiny, they make white stuff too that is even finer. Benefit is no steel fibers wandering where you don't want them causing a latent short down the road.

Thanks Ray I have replaced the lights that were burnt out. All are now working and I will try 0000 steel wool. I have started to work on the grill as for as repainting and tape took about 6 hours I guess. I spent the last two weeks looking for fenders and hub caps. Still no luck I was surprised at how many trucks I have found that are just setting rusting away. I have found several sitting out in the country on farms that were parked when they quite running. Wish me luck the search continues again this weeks.

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