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EEC III California Emissions - time to convert it?


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Sometimes it helps the transition from idle to have a slightly rich mix.

Did the TPS seem to make things worse or better?

And, have you pulled the codes?

Gary, you see the plastic assembly with the plug on the right inner fender, that is the BARO/MAP sensor. The Baro portion needs to go to 20-25" vacuum for at least 10 seconds then released. I found a procedure on-line. Here it is as a .jpg file, I can email you the original pdf if you want it for your files.

ttt3_1_copy.thumb.jpg.df6fe9726f79851c9d7114643251e6a4.jpg

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Gary, you see the plastic assembly with the plug on the right inner fender, that is the BARO/MAP sensor. The Baro portion needs to go to 20-25" vacuum for at least 10 seconds then released. I found a procedure on-line. Here it is as a .jpg file, I can email you the original pdf if you want it for your files.

Yes, please email the pdf and I’ll post it.

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Thanks for that, Bill. Have you every actually tried this procedure? I'm curious.

Here's a video I found

I found that one too, I was looking for written instructions so they can be referred back to. One item, on most of the FBCs I have worked on, idle mixture adjustment sometimes requires propane enrichment or similar as the mixture control will screw with it while you try to adjust it.

No, the last thing I had with a FBC was a 1985 Chrysler Lebaron with a POS system that makes your EEC-III look advanced. It had the Mitsubishi 2.6L engine with a Mikuni-Solex carb that used 3 duty cycle solenoids, The computer was like many Mitsubishi built ones, bad grounds inside it. Car would go lean on acceleration, then sort of act like OH SHIT he wants to go, and suddenly zoom forward. I took the system off and put an earlier carb on.

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Troy - Can you do us a favor and create a signature that tells us about the truck? I went back to the email you sent this morning and I know it is an '83 CA f150 with a 302. But the others won't. The signature creation info is on the Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's page.

The problems you've described sound like a throttle position sensor issue. If the ECA doesn't know where the throttle is it will cause all sorts of problems, and your issues seem to be associated with changing the throttle position.

The 1983 EVTM doesn't provide any testing info on the TPS, other than to say it "sends one of three signals to the ECA to indicate closed, partially open, or wide open throttle". Then it says to "Read Section 29 of the Shop Manual." But the only piece of the '83 shop manual that I have is the Engine section, and it ends at Section 28.

Maybe someone else has the '83 FSM?

Bit off topic, but while seeing EEC-III trucks is rare these days especially in New York, being that I work part time in an auto parts store on my off days from Ford, we had a customer come in recently who was a bit aggravated. He'd been looking for a cap and rotor for his 83 F150. One of the younger kids sold him stuff for a DS2 truck. Luckily I was there when he returned and he brought the old rotor. I immediately knew it was all for EEC-III and ordered him in all the right stuff.

Not a soul in that store otherwise had any idea what the hell they were looking at. Even the guy that had been doing this for 30 years.

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Bit off topic, but while seeing EEC-III trucks is rare these days especially in New York, being that I work part time in an auto parts store on my off days from Ford, we had a customer come in recently who was a bit aggravated. He'd been looking for a cap and rotor for his 83 F150. One of the younger kids sold him stuff for a DS2 truck. Luckily I was there when he returned and he brought the old rotor. I immediately knew it was all for EEC-III and ordered him in all the right stuff.

Not a soul in that store otherwise had any idea what the hell they were looking at. Even the guy that had been doing this for 30 years.

I'm curious to try the diagnostics. Did I miss where to set the dial to on my analog voltmeter? I wonder what the voltage is on the pulses/sweeps? I would think that would be important (:

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I'm curious to try the diagnostics. Did I miss where to set the dial to on my analog voltmeter? I wonder what the voltage is on the pulses/sweeps? I would think that would be important (:

I'm not sure if the voltage is that critical as you would be counting needle sweeps and not looking for a reading.

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I'm not sure if the voltage is that critical as you would be counting needle sweeps and not looking for a reading.

Yea, but need to know the range so that the voltmeter is responsive and also to avoid damaging it (:

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