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Meet "Baruch"


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@1986: Well that would explain why I couldn't hear the pump, heh.

@Gary: Yeah, I misunderstood what you were saying. I'm extremely new to carbs (my Taurus has fuel injectors, obviously) and will be doing some research to get myself acquainted with them.

I suppose I will need to adjust the carb a bit. If that doesn't keep the idle correct, could it then be the filter and/or pump? I assume, though, that the mechanical pumps are more reliable than electronic ones?

Welcome to the forum! :nabble_waving_orig:

Mechanical pumps are quite reliable.

I've only had mine wear out once in 32 years.

There are no electronic safety circuits to go bad and no wires or connections to corrode or break.

There is no motor or solenoid to wear out or seize.

There are a few disadvantages.

It takes a long time to prime the pump if you run out of gas.

A tiny hole in the line between tank and engine mounted pump can cause it to 'suck wind' (air doesn't pump very well)

The rubber diaphragm in the pump can cause gasoline to get into the engine oil without any outward sign.

From what I've read it doesn't seem like a pump or filter problem.

I'd go with David's carburetor adjustment advice.

Perhaps the accelerator pump is not in great shape if you have to pump the gas a lot?

Anyway, you are in good company.

I'm more knowledgeable of the V-8 than the I-6.

I'd certainly feel blessed if I had Baruch in my driveway!

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Welcome to the forum! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/waving_orig.gif

Mechanical pumps are quite reliable.

I've only had mine wear out once in 32 years.

There are no electronic safety circuits to go bad and no wires or connections to corrode or break.

There is no motor or solenoid to wear out or seize.

There are a few disadvantages.

It takes a long time to prime the pump if you run out of gas.

A tiny hole in the line between tank and engine mounted pump can cause it to 'suck wind' (air doesn't pump very well)

The rubber diaphragm in the pump can cause gasoline to get into the engine oil without any outward sign.

From what I've read it doesn't seem like a pump or filter problem.

I'd go with David's carburetor adjustment advice.

Perhaps the accelerator pump is not in great shape if you have to pump the gas a lot?

Anyway, you are in good company.

I'm more knowledgeable of the V-8 than the I-6.

I'd certainly feel blessed if I had Baruch in my driveway!

Why does my transmission have this ~2" by 4"-5" slit cut out of it?

SUNP0244.jpg.62f2e6c034edf5951a82a5916a4eab1b.jpg

Also, looks like it's time to work on the tie rods now...

SUNP0248.jpg.9877538b0caca5a327591e169e7f99cb.jpg

P.S. Yes, that is oil on the bottom of the oil pan. Just got the oil pan gasket an hour ago and plan on doing the oil change Sunday.

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Why does my transmission have this ~2" by 4"-5" slit cut out of it?

Also, looks like it's time to work on the tie rods now...

P.S. Yes, that is oil on the bottom of the oil pan. Just got the oil pan gasket an hour ago and plan on doing the oil change Sunday.

That 'hole' is usually covered by an inspection plate.

With an automatic you need a way to tighten the torque converter to the flexplate.

With a manual you can inspect the ring gear teeth

And it will let a leaking rear main seal leak *out, instead of just being flung around inside the bell housing.

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Why does my transmission have this ~2" by 4"-5" slit cut out of it?

Also, looks like it's time to work on the tie rods now...

P.S. Yes, that is oil on the bottom of the oil pan. Just got the oil pan gasket an hour ago and plan on doing the oil change Sunday.

You are lacking the plate that covers that opening. I think there are supposed to be two screws holding it on.

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Why does my transmission have this ~2" by 4"-5" slit cut out of it?

Also, looks like it's time to work on the tie rods now...

P.S. Yes, that is oil on the bottom of the oil pan. Just got the oil pan gasket an hour ago and plan on doing the oil change Sunday.

As for your tie rods, are they really loose, or does the link just swivel when you turn the wheel side to side?

Because the latter is normal.

The boots certainly look starved for grease.

What are you seeing that makes you want to replace them?

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As for your tie rods, are they really loose, or does the link just swivel when you turn the wheel side to side?

Because the latter is normal.

The boots certainly look starved for grease.

What are you seeing that makes you want to replace them?

How serious is it that the plate is missing/how soon should I find a replacement? I'd imagine it is very serious. If so, what steps should I follow to ensure the transmission is back to tip-top shape?

Regarding the tie rods: the boots are torn and there is a lot of play left to right.

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How serious is it that the plate is missing/how soon should I find a replacement? I'd imagine it is very serious. If so, what steps should I follow to ensure the transmission is back to tip-top shape?

Regarding the tie rods: the boots are torn and there is a lot of play left to right.

The missing plate isn't too serious. But you should be able to find one at a salvage since it was used for many years on that transmission.

The tie rods are a bigger issue. If there's slop side-to-side they need to be replaced.

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The missing plate isn't too serious. But you should be able to find one at a salvage since it was used for many years on that transmission.

The tie rods are a bigger issue. If there's slop side-to-side they need to be replaced.

Alright. Next time I head to the local "pick and pull" I'll snag a plate.

Yeah, I figured the tie rods were a big issue. Already bought 2/4 of the tie rods. The rest will be at Advance Sunday.

Would have loved to buy MOOG rods, but I just can't afford the 2.5x price tag. Down the road, maybe in 6 months or so, I plan on getting the MOOGs. I'd rather trust my life to those.

P.S. Is there a good guide y'all follow for oil pan gasket replacement? I thought it would be simple enough, but I looked at the little "installation tips" on the gasket package and it looks more complicated than just taking the old gasket off, cleaning the surfaces, and putting the new one on...

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Alright. Next time I head to the local "pick and pull" I'll snag a plate.

Yeah, I figured the tie rods were a big issue. Already bought 2/4 of the tie rods. The rest will be at Advance Sunday.

Would have loved to buy MOOG rods, but I just can't afford the 2.5x price tag. Down the road, maybe in 6 months or so, I plan on getting the MOOGs. I'd rather trust my life to those.

P.S. Is there a good guide y'all follow for oil pan gasket replacement? I thought it would be simple enough, but I looked at the little "installation tips" on the gasket package and it looks more complicated than just taking the old gasket off, cleaning the surfaces, and putting the new one on...

I'm sorry. I couldn't see the boots were torn on my phone screen, and I didn't think to zoom in. :nabble_smiley_blush:

So, you went with Centric?

They're not 'bad' in any respect.

Have used them, and consider Moog is probably made in the same factories.

I don't think there is a oil pan gasket tutorial here on the Garagemahal.

There are considerations though:

RMS leaking?

2 or 4wd?

Did you buy the one piece, or the multi piece gasket set?

Has the oil always been clean?

Depending on mileage, do you intend to replace the oil pump?

For V-8 trucks, has the sump pickup been cleared of all the shredded nylon from the cam gear?

(This took me more than an hour!)

I don't know what generic "tips" are on the package, but we can walk you through the pitfalls of replacing a pan gasket on a Ford pickup.

And also 'upgrading' to the one piece metal/rubber gasket if you intend to.

The I-6 guys (David, Dave, Ray, etc al) are more than glad to help with engine specific questions.

 

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I'm sorry. I couldn't see the boots were torn on my phone screen, and I didn't think to zoom in. :nabble_smiley_blush:

So, you went with Centric?

They're not 'bad' in any respect.

Have used them, and consider Moog is probably made in the same factories.

I don't think there is a oil pan gasket tutorial here on the Garagemahal.

There are considerations though:

RMS leaking?

2 or 4wd?

Did you buy the one piece, or the multi piece gasket set?

Has the oil always been clean?

Depending on mileage, do you intend to replace the oil pump?

For V-8 trucks, has the sump pickup been cleared of all the shredded nylon from the cam gear?

(This took me more than an hour!)

I don't know what generic "tips" are on the package, but we can walk you through the pitfalls of replacing a pan gasket on a Ford pickup.

And also 'upgrading' to the one piece metal/rubber gasket if you intend to.

The I-6 guys (David, Dave, Ray, etc al) are more than glad to help with engine specific questions.

"Driveworks" is the brand.

-RMS stands for "rear main seal?" If so, I need a location on where that is.

-2wd

-Multi-piece gasket. It's the best Advance had. It's rubber coated cork, which I still don't like, but better than normal cork.

-No clue. Just got the truck with 280k miles. Motor only has

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