Dusty A Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Bill - That would explain why I didn't see the differences as I have the unicorn '96 CA 460 MAF box that Mark/Dyn Blin got me - awa many other CA-spec things. So I've been looking at that in comparison to Huck's '90 box and the lid was the difference. Dusty - I do want to retain a factory appearance, so do want the air box. That'll be a search in the future - when I get to that point. But thanks for the suggestion. Steve - On the ECU's location, for Dad's truck I had planned on placing it under the seat where the EEC-III one was in '82 as I used an '82 cab to replace the badly-rusted one. But, that's a decision to make way down the road as 'tween now and then I'm going to be doing Big Blue with EEC-V and with everyone's help here may figure out out to get it in behind the kick panel. Having said that, I don't want to be cutting or banging on Dad's new paint, so the under-the-seat option may be the way to go. We shall see. Yeah I use the stock box setup on my 95. I think it would draw cooler air anyway compared to the conical that’s exposed to hot air under the hood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 ...the rare CA only MAF 460 air filter...Yep - I'd never seen that anywhere, including in Ford documentation. Good to know....may figure out out to get it in behind the kick panel.https://supermotors.net/getfile/71678/thumbnail/eec-install.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/65187/thumbnail/body_lf.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/65189/thumbnail/inside_bare.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/71661/thumbnail/pcm-inside-text.jpg I never got a drop of water inside, with all my slogging through the mud in Louisiana, or the hosing it off after every trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 I may have been mistaken then about the lid compatibility. If so then he can just get the entire box and lid assembly from a mass air truck and use the inlet tube from a lightning if he’s wanting to retain a factory style air box or just use a conical filter style setup that eliminates the factory air box like pictured. I used the stock inlet duct from a 1995 or so I grabbed at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach. I do not want a "hot air package" so will not use an underhood intake, mine goes through to behind the outer part of the grille and with the baffles Jim brought me, even in traffic I am fairly sure I do not get hot air pulled in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 I used the stock inlet duct from a 1995 or so I grabbed at Pick-n-Pull in Virginia Beach. I do not want a "hot air package" so will not use an underhood intake, mine goes through to behind the outer part of the grille and with the baffles Jim brought me, even in traffic I am fairly sure I do not get hot air pulled in. Dusty & Bill - I agree that it isn't good to pull hot air into the inlet. Even though the EFI systems measure the inlet air temp and adjust for it, that decreases the power available as it decreases the amount of air and fuel in the cylinder. (But that's less bad than what happens to a carb setup, the vast majority of which can't compensate for temp.) So I'll figure out a way to pull in outside air. And, I've even thought about a snorkel. Steve - I knew you had done that, so thanks for sharing the pic links. But, I'm not thrilled with fiberglassing to close things up. Not that I don't like fiberglass or don't know how to do it as I've done a fair bit. And I assume you used epoxy resin? But I'd like to use sheetmetal. How feasible would that be in your estimation? Or, to put it another way, could you outline what you had to do. IIRC the later e-brake mechanism was part of that - right? I may do this on Big Blue but really doubt that I do it on Dad's pristine firewall, so I'd bet his ECU goes under the seat as I'd planned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 ...could you outline what you had to do.I looked at a few '87-91 firewalls in the JYs to get an idea where the EEC belongs, and where its hole should be. I laid out the top & bottom of the hole, and the Left (outboard) side, and cut those 3 sides. Then I folded the flap of sheet metal straight forward to expose the hole width that I wanted, and made sure the EEC fit in it. I fiberglassed it to make it watertight (and to give a little more surface area on the inboard edge for the rubber seal to press against), ground it all flush, and had the whole body painted. At that time, I didn't know how to weld, have a welding machine, or know any welders I thought would want to do such a small job for anything close to what I could do it for in fiberglass. During assembly, I found that the e-brake interfered with the EEC, so I slotted the e-brake holes in the firewall to move it inboard.IIRC the later e-brake mechanism was part of that - right?No, the later ('92-96/7) e-brake attaches to the big Aluminum column support, which only fits the '92-96/7 firewall. Mine is an '80-91 e-brake pedal (probably '83 or '82)....doubt that I do it on Dad's pristine firewall...It's entirely NOT-visible when the EEC seal is installed, even if the tire & wheelwell are removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Dusty & Bill - I agree that it isn't good to pull hot air into the inlet. Even though the EFI systems measure the inlet air temp and adjust for it, that decreases the power available as it decreases the amount of air and fuel in the cylinder. (But that's less bad than what happens to a carb setup, the vast majority of which can't compensate for temp.) So I'll figure out a way to pull in outside air. And, I've even thought about a snorkel. Steve - I knew you had done that, so thanks for sharing the pic links. But, I'm not thrilled with fiberglassing to close things up. Not that I don't like fiberglass or don't know how to do it as I've done a fair bit. And I assume you used epoxy resin? But I'd like to use sheetmetal. How feasible would that be in your estimation? Or, to put it another way, could you outline what you had to do. IIRC the later e-brake mechanism was part of that - right? I may do this on Big Blue but really doubt that I do it on Dad's pristine firewall, so I'd bet his ECU goes under the seat as I'd planned. Here is how I did mine, I cut a piece from an old Sears washing machine rear access panel. I then cut the firewall vertically up the inside of the left airbox so I could put the EEC as far to the left as possible. I laid out the EEC opening with it's cover and the two firewall side connectors (76 pin and 24 pin) so I had enough room between them. I then made a cardboard mockup and used it to mark the inside of the firewall. Before I started cutting I attached the 1992 up column, dash and parking brake support to locate the center of the intermediate steering shaft path. Once I had everything laid out, I took my Dewalt sawzall and cut out the old section. I used the cardboard mockup to transfer the hole locations to the larger replacement section, drilled a couple of starter holes to locate the piece, caulked the entire perimeter and used self drilling and tapping sheet metal screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 12, 2019 Author Share Posted April 12, 2019 Here is how I did mine, I cut a piece from an old Sears washing machine rear access panel. I then cut the firewall vertically up the inside of the left airbox so I could put the EEC as far to the left as possible. I laid out the EEC opening with it's cover and the two firewall side connectors (76 pin and 24 pin) so I had enough room between them. I then made a cardboard mockup and used it to mark the inside of the firewall. Before I started cutting I attached the 1992 up column, dash and parking brake support to locate the center of the intermediate steering shaft path. Once I had everything laid out, I took my Dewalt sawzall and cut out the old section. I used the cardboard mockup to transfer the hole locations to the larger replacement section, drilled a couple of starter holes to locate the piece, caulked the entire perimeter and used self drilling and tapping sheet metal screws. Ok guys, I think I have it - for the time being. But, when I get into Big Blue I'm certain to have more questions. I want to use Big Blue as my prototype to figure out what to do for Dad's truck. If I come up with a slick way to put the ECU left of the e-brake pedal then I may actually cut the firewall. But, it'll have to be a relatively minor thing to do as I don't want to do much to it. As for how to attach things, I do have a welder and can surely weld in a piece to the firewall and then get that part painted to "match". But, I'll leave the way to do it open until I get further into it. Having said that, it won't be a piece out of a Sears anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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