"Hook 'em Up Loose" - 1986 F-150 Restoration/build

[Danny G]

Special internet high five to anyone who can tell me what "Hook 'em Up Loose" means and where it came from.

Out with the sponge called jute and vynil. Remember I said it holds water and the screws and caps through the floor weep water into your truck... this is why rockers rot etc.

Beginning of a long road of rust hunting and busting.

Under that dirt you can see the rocker channel was getting dangerously close to rotting through.

Cleaning up the drivers side cab corners i found some pin holes, these will fill up easy, these were hidden under the paint.

Some rust forming here by the door hinge prompted me to removed them entirely. After they are cleaned up new hinges are going back on and will be fay sealed to the truck to prevent this from ever happening again.

I found a combination of wire cups/wheels and an angle grinder with a flapper disk worked well for cleaning up the rust. I made sure to clear paint well past any rust spots to be sure it was clear. The goal here is never again. Using a flashlight you can see any little "pimples" under the paint. This was 99% of the time rust starting. Corroseal was used to treat the bare metal after it was cleaned well with mineral spirits. I think I would prefer MEK/MPK or industrial IPA as solvent but MEK is very dangerous, MPK is better but you still need the correct ppe to use it as it will soak through latex, and good IPA I don't have a line on so low oder mineral sprits it is.

passenger cab corner has some bond

Pulled the truck out of the garage so I could open and remove the passenger door (yes my garage is that tight), and pull the bench. When I did I found a nice puddle of transmission fluid. She is pretty wet all over but looks like at least one is from the pan. Getting add that to the agenda. I will replace this guy sometime, hopefully for 4x4 and something with OD. I thought it had a AOD was surprised to find the C6 but I knew on the way home from driving it either it wasnt going into gear or it didn't have an AOD.

Cat tube gone

Cab mount rusted through... so much for the PO who has been up and down under this guy. But this is super common, just not something I wanted to deal with. I bought a 120v flux welder and some repair pieces from Jeffs Bronco Graveyard. Will be a new experience there. Maybe one day ill put 240v in the garage and get a tig/mig set up. I have a new generator now that does 240 as well. At the time the 120v flux core welder was my only option. Should do the trick.

Busting Rust

Corroseal turns black in the presence of iron oxide, rust forms instantly when exposed to air just too small for you to see.

 

[Danny G]

Out with the sponge called jute and vynil. Remember I said it holds water and the screws and caps through the floor weep water into your truck... this is why rockers rot etc.

Beginning of a long road of rust hunting and busting.

Under that dirt you can see the rocker channel was getting dangerously close to rotting through.

Cleaning up the drivers side cab corners i found some pin holes, these will fill up easy, these were hidden under the paint.

Some rust forming here by the door hinge prompted me to removed them entirely. After they are cleaned up new hinges are going back on and will be fay sealed to the truck to prevent this from ever happening again.

I found a combination of wire cups/wheels and an angle grinder with a flapper disk worked well for cleaning up the rust. I made sure to clear paint well past any rust spots to be sure it was clear. The goal here is never again. Using a flashlight you can see any little "pimples" under the paint. This was 99% of the time rust starting. Corroseal was used to treat the bare metal after it was cleaned well with mineral spirits. I think I would prefer MEK/MPK or industrial IPA as solvent but MEK is very dangerous, MPK is better but you still need the correct ppe to use it as it will soak through latex, and good IPA I don't have a line on so low oder mineral sprits it is.

passenger cab corner has some bond

Pulled the truck out of the garage so I could open and remove the passenger door (yes my garage is that tight), and pull the bench. When I did I found a nice puddle of transmission fluid. She is pretty wet all over but looks like at least one is from the pan. Getting add that to the agenda. I will replace this guy sometime, hopefully for 4x4 and something with OD. I thought it had a AOD was surprised to find the C6 but I knew on the way home from driving it either it wasnt going into gear or it didn't have an AOD.

Cat tube gone

Cab mount rusted through... so much for the PO who has been up and down under this guy. But this is super common, just not something I wanted to deal with. I bought a 120v flux welder and some repair pieces from Jeffs Bronco Graveyard. Will be a new experience there. Maybe one day ill put 240v in the garage and get a tig/mig set up. I have a new generator now that does 240 as well. At the time the 120v flux core welder was my only option. Should do the trick.

Busting Rust

Corroseal turns black in the presence of iron oxide, rust forms instantly when exposed to air just too small for you to see.

Followed suit with others on the forums and replaced my rollers with some "Ford" blue 1/2" pex. Cut to 7/8" long, split and used the hand dandy Swiss army knife pliers to spread them on. I stall good about 3 seconds with this method. I'm not going to tape them. Curious how long they will hold up like this. Heck I got 5 more feet of pipe. Doors close smoothly, no slamming needed no second push. I can feel some sag on the release so hinge pins and bearings will happen when the new doors get here. Looks to be about a 3/8" drop when the door releases.

[Danny G]

Followed suit with others on the forums and replaced my rollers with some "Ford" blue 1/2" pex. Cut to 7/8" long, split and used the hand dandy Swiss army knife pliers to spread them on. I stall good about 3 seconds with this method. I'm not going to tape them. Curious how long they will hold up like this. Heck I got 5 more feet of pipe. Doors close smoothly, no slamming needed no second push. I can feel some sag on the release so hinge pins and bearings will happen when the new doors get here. Looks to be about a 3/8" drop when the door releases.

While one thing is curing the next is in work, crawled under the truck to take a look at the frame etc. I was having break scares... like peddle to the floor not stopping scares... I think I found why... look at these lines and fittings. I also tested busting rust, treating and painting on a section of the frame to let it set while I did other work so I could judge how well it holds up. If when I am done with everything else this still looks good I will use that method on the rest. If not... then I didn't waste any time and money.

A closer look at the leaks

 

[Danny G]

While one thing is curing the next is in work, crawled under the truck to take a look at the frame etc. I was having break scares... like peddle to the floor not stopping scares... I think I found why... look at these lines and fittings. I also tested busting rust, treating and painting on a section of the frame to let it set while I did other work so I could judge how well it holds up. If when I am done with everything else this still looks good I will use that method on the rest. If not... then I didn't waste any time and money.

A closer look at the leaks

Masked off the rear window dash, pedals and steering wheel. Went over the cab with a vacuum and some denatured alcohol found a couple more trouble spots and cleared the paint.

Laid down another coat of corroseal. I find that two coats at a minimum is needed with this because I'm using a brush. If you let it sit a day or two you will find any "bleed through" when it really is just streaks left untreated by the brush. I experimented with brushing it on and letting it set up a bit then going at it again in a parallel. We will see how that turns out. You know your done when all you have is black from the tannic acid in the corroseal reacting with any ferric oxide.

[Gary Lewis]

While one thing is curing the next is in work, crawled under the truck to take a look at the frame etc. I was having break scares... like peddle to the floor not stopping scares... I think I found why... look at these lines and fittings. I also tested busting rust, treating and painting on a section of the frame to let it set while I did other work so I could judge how well it holds up. If when I am done with everything else this still looks good I will use that method on the rest. If not... then I didn't waste any time and money.

A closer look at the leaks

WOW! You've done a LOT of work on this truck! I'm impressed.

So, are we up to date or is there another raft of posts coming? Just curious where you are in the whole scheme of things.

 

[Danny G]

WOW! You've done a LOT of work on this truck! I'm impressed.

So, are we up to date or is there another raft of posts coming? Just curious where you are in the whole scheme of things.

More coming, the interior is almost at the point of going back together. Just ran out of will to keep updating yesterday lol.

A friend at work tells me all the time, your doing it right, but no one will ever appreciate the amount of work you are putting into that truck but you.

[Danny G]

WOW! You've done a LOT of work on this truck! I'm impressed.

So, are we up to date or is there another raft of posts coming? Just curious where you are in the whole scheme of things.

More coming, the interior is almost at the point of going back together. Just ran out of will to keep updating yesterday lol.

A friend at work tells me all the time, your doing it right, but no one will ever appreciate the amount of work you are putting into that truck but you.

One of the things I did early on, because little wins are motivational was change out some lights.

My seat belt light was intermittent, several were completely out, map light was out. The side marker/turn signals on the fenders worked, then didn't work(think we have a wire issue). And in combination with the power issue everything was just generally dim.

Now a days there is a retro LED bulb for everything. They are not only bright, but they have the added benefit of using less power, meaning that little 2g alternator doesn't need to work as hard, or power could be used somewhere else.

Tail lights were easy, picked up LED bulbs on Amazon, and some cheap lenses from Rock Auto. Big difference.

On the front it is just as easy. Being as this is a common bulb size many an option exists. I was hoping to find a set of glass headlights with LEDs but I settled on these ones based on reviews. I used a clear plastic film over the lenses to protect from damage. The housing on the truck was treated for rust before I installed them, I also ended up ordering all new clip nuts and fasteners for the front end as most were rotted away. Turn signal light is the same as on the rear I believe 3157 socket with two prongs.

and yes they are bright

Next was some interior bulbs

This light was so dim it was useless, now look at it. What is nice about this is if you dont want the traditional back lighting you can take that blue lense out of the bulb holder and buy an LED that is pre colored to what you want. When I lived in TX I worked a lot at night and had to preserve night vision, so my dome light, instrument lights and the entry lights on my mirrors were red. It would allow me to read what I needed to without compromising my vision. If I needed more light the map lights were position able and white.

[Danny G]

One of the things I did early on, because little wins are motivational was change out some lights.

My seat belt light was intermittent, several were completely out, map light was out. The side marker/turn signals on the fenders worked, then didn't work(think we have a wire issue). And in combination with the power issue everything was just generally dim.

Now a days there is a retro LED bulb for everything. They are not only bright, but they have the added benefit of using less power, meaning that little 2g alternator doesn't need to work as hard, or power could be used somewhere else.

Tail lights were easy, picked up LED bulbs on Amazon, and some cheap lenses from Rock Auto. Big difference.

On the front it is just as easy. Being as this is a common bulb size many an option exists. I was hoping to find a set of glass headlights with LEDs but I settled on these ones based on reviews. I used a clear plastic film over the lenses to protect from damage. The housing on the truck was treated for rust before I installed them, I also ended up ordering all new clip nuts and fasteners for the front end as most were rotted away. Turn signal light is the same as on the rear I believe 3157 socket with two prongs.

and yes they are bright

Next was some interior bulbs

This light was so dim it was useless, now look at it. What is nice about this is if you dont want the traditional back lighting you can take that blue lense out of the bulb holder and buy an LED that is pre colored to what you want. When I lived in TX I worked a lot at night and had to preserve night vision, so my dome light, instrument lights and the entry lights on my mirrors were red. It would allow me to read what I needed to without compromising my vision. If I needed more light the map lights were position able and white.

I had no intentions of replacing the doors on this truck but I ended up having too. These are from LMC truck. I am comforted that they come from a ISO 9001 certified company.

Even though the come "ready to paint" I cleaned them up scuffed them and primered them. This is my first time painting so this door was a good test bed for me to work on control, prep and finish. I wanted to make sure the door and the cab and jams were painted before it went together so when I do the outside, or if I decide I cannot paint well enough to do the outside everything will match if I pay someone.

and then painted single stage white. I had one fish eye on the bottom seam where no one will ever see but it came out good. I was unsure about white but now it is definitely growing on me.

Moving to the cab, here is that door hinge. It is sprayed with Eastwoods rust treatment. That stuff is pricey but it goes on like a dream. I decided I would use this instead of corroseal on any other area that is going to get a final paint finish as brushing the corroseal is going to leave stroke marks that take a lot of time to turn out.

This is just the first coat of primer in the cab. I cant seem to find the picture but I did another coat and evened it all out and sanded it clean in the pictures where I start top coating you can see it, heck it almost blends in with the white.

Time for paint!! Finally. I should note in my tiny garage in SC it is hot and humid, not conducive to paint. I bought a portable AC and ran a dryer vent in the wall and that didnt work out so I cut a hole in the house, installed a window and then at 12000 btu window AC. My garage is now workable. I didn't mask the windshield, its getting replaced.

Working on this truck, definitely helps me connect with a piece of my grandfather and nostalgia from being a kid. My wife doesn't get it, it stresses her out but I can get lost in here for hours as an escape. Maybe I should have been a mechanic like him lol. My dad came to visit (they live in NY as does the rest of the family) and he was pretty excited, you could see him reminiscing and pointing out things that were "just like his" reminding him of the Bronco he had. Man if I had the money I would buy and restore an '86 Bronco for him.

 

[Danny G]

One of the things I did early on, because little wins are motivational was change out some lights.

My seat belt light was intermittent, several were completely out, map light was out. The side marker/turn signals on the fenders worked, then didn't work(think we have a wire issue). And in combination with the power issue everything was just generally dim.

Now a days there is a retro LED bulb for everything. They are not only bright, but they have the added benefit of using less power, meaning that little 2g alternator doesn't need to work as hard, or power could be used somewhere else.

Tail lights were easy, picked up LED bulbs on Amazon, and some cheap lenses from Rock Auto. Big difference.

On the front it is just as easy. Being as this is a common bulb size many an option exists. I was hoping to find a set of glass headlights with LEDs but I settled on these ones based on reviews. I used a clear plastic film over the lenses to protect from damage. The housing on the truck was treated for rust before I installed them, I also ended up ordering all new clip nuts and fasteners for the front end as most were rotted away. Turn signal light is the same as on the rear I believe 3157 socket with two prongs.

and yes they are bright

Next was some interior bulbs

This light was so dim it was useless, now look at it. What is nice about this is if you dont want the traditional back lighting you can take that blue lense out of the bulb holder and buy an LED that is pre colored to what you want. When I lived in TX I worked a lot at night and had to preserve night vision, so my dome light, instrument lights and the entry lights on my mirrors were red. It would allow me to read what I needed to without compromising my vision. If I needed more light the map lights were position able and white.

OK Gary, this is the part you were asking about. Eva matting... what the crap is Eva matting.

Eva matting is an asphalt based heat barrier and sound deadening material that is by nature water proof. You can get it at LMC and Rock Auto. I got mine from Rock Auto (here by known as RA) for cheaper. The carpet, eva mat and jute/foil insulation are all made by ACC.

The matting is pre cut to fit over your hump, and down in the foot box. You will need to order the material for your layout. I was not impressed with the "pre-cut to fit" fit. It is a bit hard to work with. What I ended up doing is cutting it into 6 pieces. Hump, drivers footbox, passenger footbox and 3 for under the seat.

This gave me a couple benefits. I am installing it with Super 90 spray glue by 3M. If I spray this huge piece and try to get it down it may not sit right, and you will need someone on both sides of the cab to do it properly. Secondly it allowed me to position the peices for what I felt was the best fit and function. A good pair of scissors and a seam/carpet roller is a must. Also be sure your paint is cured before doing this. The 3M spray glue could cause fresh paint to peel.

You could stop here, or not even do this at all and install carpet, but I still have some PTSD from that first day driving home and how loud and cold the cab was. This process will significantly quiet noise from the drive train and road while also providing a good bit of environmental insulation, and on top of that, will also make any sound system that goes in sound that much better.

Next step is the jute and foil insulation. This is like the carpet pad in your house. it is also cut for your vehicle with a separate piece for the hump. After you lay it in you will see where you need to make cuts to make it sit properly. Looking at this picture you will see where it bubbles on corners. Simply cut up or cut a narrow "v" to compensate Spray the eva mat/surface to attach it to AND the just underbelly of the insulation. Usually the time it takes to spray both sides is enough for it to tack up. It will instantly grab you mat for the most part. After it is in roll it with the carpet/seam roller to make sure it adheres to all the surfaces and is form fitting.

I worked this in pieces. Hump first, then passenger foot box, the driver foot box. You can fold it back to spray then put it back down. Then I folded the back half forward and started working that end. OH and do not forget to locate and cut out your holes before doing this.

When all is said and done use 3m foil tape to secure the edges of the mat and the holes. This will keep it from fraying where you cut it and help with longevity.

[Rembrant]

OK Gary, this is the part you were asking about. Eva matting... what the crap is Eva matting.

Eva matting is an asphalt based heat barrier and sound deadening material that is by nature water proof. You can get it at LMC and Rock Auto. I got mine from Rock Auto (here by known as RA) for cheaper. The carpet, eva mat and jute/foil insulation are all made by ACC.

The matting is pre cut to fit over your hump, and down in the foot box. You will need to order the material for your layout. I was not impressed with the "pre-cut to fit" fit. It is a bit hard to work with. What I ended up doing is cutting it into 6 pieces. Hump, drivers footbox, passenger footbox and 3 for under the seat.

This gave me a couple benefits. I am installing it with Super 90 spray glue by 3M. If I spray this huge piece and try to get it down it may not sit right, and you will need someone on both sides of the cab to do it properly. Secondly it allowed me to position the peices for what I felt was the best fit and function. A good pair of scissors and a seam/carpet roller is a must. Also be sure your paint is cured before doing this. The 3M spray glue could cause fresh paint to peel.

You could stop here, or not even do this at all and install carpet, but I still have some PTSD from that first day driving home and how loud and cold the cab was. This process will significantly quiet noise from the drive train and road while also providing a good bit of environmental insulation, and on top of that, will also make any sound system that goes in sound that much better.

Next step is the jute and foil insulation. This is like the carpet pad in your house. it is also cut for your vehicle with a separate piece for the hump. After you lay it in you will see where you need to make cuts to make it sit properly. Looking at this picture you will see where it bubbles on corners. Simply cut up or cut a narrow "v" to compensate Spray the eva mat/surface to attach it to AND the just underbelly of the insulation. Usually the time it takes to spray both sides is enough for it to tack up. It will instantly grab you mat for the most part. After it is in roll it with the carpet/seam roller to make sure it adheres to all the surfaces and is form fitting.

I worked this in pieces. Hump first, then passenger foot box, the driver foot box. You can fold it back to spray then put it back down. Then I folded the back half forward and started working that end. OH and do not forget to locate and cut out your holes before doing this.

When all is said and done use 3m foil tape to secure the edges of the mat and the holes. This will keep it from fraying where you cut it and help with longevity.

Just curious, but is this cab insulation done mostly for sound deadening purposes, or for insulating (heat) purposes?