Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

[ratdude747]

AOD cable adjustment, I put a section in on it, but, the AOD is a lot like the old GM Hydra-Matics on throttle adjustment, too tight and it will either not get into OD or is hyper sensitive to throttle, kicking down at the least throttle. Too loose and it will shift (and slip) super early. There are special gauges for adjusting it, but, shift "feel" is a good test, shift 2-3 is your test point, if it is early and soft, tighten the cable (move the outer casing away from the carb) if it is late and hard, loosen the cable. 2-3 should be firm, but not slam. It is a purely mechanical gear, no torque converter, 3-4 should normally be around 45 mph under normal driving.

That's the plan and what I've done. Been taking it for drives, and while I doubt my fuel economy improved, the driveabilty did. Today, I only had to force it into OD a handful of times on rolling hills cruise driving (at 65mph).

More stuff coming/done:

-Returning the "new" ECU under warranty... the erroneous KOEO faults, to me, condemn it. Old ECU runs just as well, and I do wonder if the EGR issues were causing my weird KOER faults. Don't know, will look into that later.

-In a somewhat successful attempt to squealch noise, I ran dedicated power wires for the CB and Radio from the battery (off a 30A inline fuse) and installed a relay to ignition control the ignition input and CB, which are powered through the relay from one of the dedicated power wires (the other is the battery/main power to the radio).

-Pulled the dash pad because I wanted to see if I could get my buzzer working... she's gone. And as you all already know, unobtainium. Forget that.

-Finally replacing a faulty headlight/dimmer switch. My dome light force on has never worked, and the dimmer is always dim-ish... not sure if the latter is normal, but I found a NOS wells one for <$10 shipped, so time to fix it.

-Best offered down a 1983 instrument cluster with Tach (6K) and Trip Odometer for $135 shipped. I'll be repainting the gauge needles... Which is a better color: Orange or Red? It's from a truck with a stick, but all I need to do to convert it is pop out a filler piece? Or will I need to move the gauges and board to my old casing? Will be fun rolling back (or rolling forward) the Odometer to match my current value... I've tried this before with one of my Ranger Odometers (tried to roll back the one from my wrecked one to put in the replacement, it sorta worked).

[Gary Lewis]

That's the plan and what I've done. Been taking it for drives, and while I doubt my fuel economy improved, the driveabilty did. Today, I only had to force it into OD a handful of times on rolling hills cruise driving (at 65mph).

More stuff coming/done:

-Returning the "new" ECU under warranty... the erroneous KOEO faults, to me, condemn it. Old ECU runs just as well, and I do wonder if the EGR issues were causing my weird KOER faults. Don't know, will look into that later.

-In a somewhat successful attempt to squealch noise, I ran dedicated power wires for the CB and Radio from the battery (off a 30A inline fuse) and installed a relay to ignition control the ignition input and CB, which are powered through the relay from one of the dedicated power wires (the other is the battery/main power to the radio).

-Pulled the dash pad because I wanted to see if I could get my buzzer working... she's gone. And as you all already know, unobtainium. Forget that.

-Finally replacing a faulty headlight/dimmer switch. My dome light force on has never worked, and the dimmer is always dim-ish... not sure if the latter is normal, but I found a NOS wells one for

On the gauge needles, my experience is captured here: Documentation/Interior/Painting Gauge Needles. And yes, you take out the filler panel and put in the indicator for the auto tranny, and then run the little cable to the shift lever.

As for the odometer, you might want to look at the instructions here: Documentation/Electrical/Gauges and then the tab called Odometer Reset.

[1986F150Six]

-Pulled the dash pad because I wanted to see if I could get my buzzer working... she's gone. And as you all already know, unobtainium. Forget that.

Seatbelt buzzer?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ford-E43B-10B924-AB-Seat-Belt-Light-Relay-Timer-Warning-Alarm-Buzzer/400951555295?fits=Year%3A1984%7CMake%3AFord&epid=1328251434&hash=item5d5a9334df:g:1TAAAOSwT6pVmXeD

 

[85lebaront2]

That's the plan and what I've done. Been taking it for drives, and while I doubt my fuel economy improved, the driveabilty did. Today, I only had to force it into OD a handful of times on rolling hills cruise driving (at 65mph).

More stuff coming/done:

-Returning the "new" ECU under warranty... the erroneous KOEO faults, to me, condemn it. Old ECU runs just as well, and I do wonder if the EGR issues were causing my weird KOER faults. Don't know, will look into that later.

-In a somewhat successful attempt to squealch noise, I ran dedicated power wires for the CB and Radio from the battery (off a 30A inline fuse) and installed a relay to ignition control the ignition input and CB, which are powered through the relay from one of the dedicated power wires (the other is the battery/main power to the radio).

-Pulled the dash pad because I wanted to see if I could get my buzzer working... she's gone. And as you all already know, unobtainium. Forget that.

-Finally replacing a faulty headlight/dimmer switch. My dome light force on has never worked, and the dimmer is always dim-ish... not sure if the latter is normal, but I found a NOS wells one for <$10 shipped, so time to fix it.

-Best offered down a 1983 instrument cluster with Tach (6K) and Trip Odometer for $135 shipped. I'll be repainting the gauge needles... Which is a better color: Orange or Red? It's from a truck with a stick, but all I need to do to convert it is pop out a filler piece? Or will I need to move the gauges and board to my old casing? Will be fun rolling back (or rolling forward) the Odometer to match my current value... I've tried this before with one of my Ranger Odometers (tried to roll back the one from my wrecked one to put in the replacement, it sorta worked).

Damn, I'll have to look and see If I have one, I put one on my wife's cousin's Chevy G-30 van wired to the rear courtesy light and running light circuits so if you opened the rear doors with the lights on it would buzz.

[ratdude747]

-Pulled the dash pad because I wanted to see if I could get my buzzer working... she's gone. And as you all already know, unobtainium. Forget that.

Seatbelt buzzer?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ford-E43B-10B924-AB-Seat-Belt-Light-Relay-Timer-Warning-Alarm-Buzzer/400951555295?fits=Year%3A1984%7CMake%3AFord&epid=1328251434&hash=item5d5a9334df:g:1TAAAOSwT6pVmXeD

Found and bought... How'd I miss that?

Headlights are a different buzzer that, being an XL, I don't have? Or is that part of this module too?

[ratdude747]

You are really making progress.

On the gauge needles, my experience is captured here: Documentation/Interior/Painting Gauge Needles. And yes, you take out the filler panel and put in the indicator for the auto tranny, and then run the little cable to the shift lever.

As for the odometer, you might want to look at the instructions here: Documentation/Electrical/Gauges and then the tab called Odometer Reset.

Thanks. No project is ever finished.

I knew there was something on needle painting around here... Bought some of the tester's orange, as that seems to be a good fit. I don't care about an exact clone, just something better than the shades of cream everything but the shift indicator is.

I figured the manual cluster had a "dummy indicator" in it... That's how the ranger ones are (I've had both the bullnose and ranger clusters out, just never seen a manual bullnose one before).

Wow, that's an easy reset procedure. And now I know why rollback fraud was such an issue back then... then again, with only 5 digits, there isn't as much to fluff.

[1986F150Six]

Found and bought... How'd I miss that?

Headlights are a different buzzer that, being an XL, I don't have? Or is that part of this module too?

 

[ratdude747]

Found and bought... How'd I miss that?

Headlights are a different buzzer that, being an XL, I don't have? Or is that part of this module too?

Many things have happened, and I'll write them up when I have time and motivation.

That said, I do have the following info:

The new cluster is in. Had some issues come up, but I have a tachometer now. Idles warm around 600rpm, OD cruise is around 1500-1600. Power and torque curves seem to be roughly correct.

Rigged a set of test leads to measure the feedback solenoid signal today. Was getting feedback signal, And it was varying as expected in terms of duty cycle.

As an experiment, I reinstalled the old feedback solenoid. Resulted in a rough idle, which was fixed by doing a "max vacuum" readjustment of the idle mix (needed to add fuel). Will see what if any help/hurt that is.

Changed the oil and filter at 1600 miles. No metal in the oil or in the filter (I opened the can).

May be having drain back issues with the AOD. Took several seconds to get drive when I pulled our of lunch at work. Weird... Time for a fluid and filter job? I need to check the fluid level, it was fine the last time I checked.

[Gary Lewis]

Many things have happened, and I'll write them up when I have time and motivation.

That said, I do have the following info:

The new cluster is in. Had some issues come up, but I have a tachometer now. Idles warm around 600rpm, OD cruise is around 1500-1600. Power and torque curves seem to be roughly correct.

Rigged a set of test leads to measure the feedback solenoid signal today. Was getting feedback signal, And it was varying as expected in terms of duty cycle.

As an experiment, I reinstalled the old feedback solenoid. Resulted in a rough idle, which was fixed by doing a "max vacuum" readjustment of the idle mix (needed to add fuel). Will see what if any help/hurt that is.

Changed the oil and filter at 1600 miles. No metal in the oil or in the filter (I opened the can).

May be having drain back issues with the AOD. Took several seconds to get drive when I pulled our of lunch at work. Weird... Time for a fluid and filter job? I need to check the fluid level, it was fine the last time I checked.

It appears that you are making progress and, as Jim says, progress is good. And you are peeling the onion. Keep up the good work.

[ratdude747]

It appears that you are making progress and, as Jim says, progress is good. And you are peeling the onion. Keep up the good work.

Not so fast...

Idle was rough again this morning... stalled on me driving to work. Reset the fuel mix to 1.5 turns past bottom out, and it won't idle at all (stalls within 10 seconds).

Unless there's a better suggestion, I'll swap the feedback solenoids back over lunch break. Good thing I kept the part and tool in the truck...