Lugging at speed/No power at WOT

[Gary Lewis]

The plot thickens.

Poking around the calibration lists on the site (my cal sticker had faded to white when I got the truck, and was removed when I painted the valve cover).

From what I can tell, the correct ECU was one the "ZB" ones... mine is a "ZA" (a Z1A, to be exact), which only shows on the list as a 1985 part (number 440, the "ZB" is also listed as a valid number).

Very odd... either this ECU isn't original, or ford's cal lists are lying (or it's a weird transition between years build?)

Edit: Rockauto (via cardone) lists the ZA and ZB as the same thing... one common part, which they have in stock ($125 after core return).

Edit: From what I can see, the E5DZ 12A650-VB from 1986 (300 AOD RWD normal emissions, list #471) is also compatible to some degree. The only other different part on the list is the carb itself... and from what I see on my 1986 carb, there isn't much different.

The MPC isn't 100% correct, but it is the best we have.

[ratdude747]

The MPC isn't 100% correct, but it is the best we have.

Gotcha. Although it seems that whatever the difference is, it isn't enough to matter since everybody in the ECU rebuilder world Puts's all the ZA's and ZB's under the same part number

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Been hell week at work. Helicoil set came... only for the coils to be the wrong size (tap and installer is correct at least!). Luckily, I am able to order through O'reiley online and get them shipped to store for $10. Also went ahead and ordered a cardone ECU from there... cheaper than RA considering that I got free shipping and that I can return the core to the local store and not have to pay return shipping. Go figure.

I was able to tap out the manifold... although my socket extension rubbed a hole in the insulation sleeve over the hot side of my new choke tube. At least it's hidden under the intake... Still not happy since it frayed on me. Grr...

[Gary Lewis]

Gotcha. Although it seems that whatever the difference is, it isn't enough to matter since everybody in the ECU rebuilder world Puts's all the ZA's and ZB's under the same part number

----

Been hell week at work. Helicoil set came... only for the coils to be the wrong size (tap and installer is correct at least!). Luckily, I am able to order through O'reiley online and get them shipped to store for $10. Also went ahead and ordered a cardone ECU from there... cheaper than RA considering that I got free shipping and that I can return the core to the local store and not have to pay return shipping. Go figure.

I was able to tap out the manifold... although my socket extension rubbed a hole in the insulation sleeve over the hot side of my new choke tube. At least it's hidden under the intake... Still not happy since it frayed on me. Grr...

I suspect that there were really small differences in the ECU, probably for emissions purposes, that don't make much difference in daily driving.

Glad you can get it worked out through O'Reilly's.

[ratdude747]

I suspect that there were really small differences in the ECU, probably for emissions purposes, that don't make much difference in daily driving.

Glad you can get it worked out through O'Reilly's.

Stuff came in and I have things to report.

First, as it turns out, the correct helicoil was in the kit I bought... it's supposed to be bigger... that's how it locks in. DUH. I feel so stupid... suffice to say with some difficulty I was able to helicoil the mainfold and re-install the O2. Having to disconnect and reconnect the exahaust from the manifold wasn't good for my rotted termactor tube; the exhaust leak there got a lot worse after. More on that in a bit.

Installed the reman'd ECU. Initial KOEO test gave me fault 15 (KAM fault)... figured it was a new ECU startup issue, and drove it some. No real change in performance. Noted my cruise control and horn was dead... that was due to idiot here shorting out the lighter socket back when I was doing )2 testing and slipped while using the socket for my ground. The cruise "on" signal is powered from the horn relay side of the horn switch (cheaty way to get a +12V reference without adding a connection to the steering wheel harness), which is why popping the horn/lighter fuse also effectively kills cruise (cannot power on).

Did a KOER test after a 2nd test drive confirming that cruise was working again. Botched the test (didn't fully floor the throttle when 10 came up, only tapped it a bit), got codes 23 and 44. 23 is probably the botched test (will retry tomorrow); 44 (thermactor fault) might be the blown thermactor injection pipe?

MPG wise, it's too early to say. I'm getting no O2 codes at KOER, so I guess that's an improvement?

One other note: there has always been a high pitched squeal when running. Thought it was the thermal air diverter valve in the air cleaner housing, determined that it's not that. Re-smoked it, no vacuum leaks appeared. Sounds like it's coming from the carb but I can't nail it down. Ideas?

 

[Gary Lewis]

Stuff came in and I have things to report.

First, as it turns out, the correct helicoil was in the kit I bought... it's supposed to be bigger... that's how it locks in. DUH. I feel so stupid... suffice to say with some difficulty I was able to helicoil the mainfold and re-install the O2. Having to disconnect and reconnect the exahaust from the manifold wasn't good for my rotted termactor tube; the exhaust leak there got a lot worse after. More on that in a bit.

Installed the reman'd ECU. Initial KOEO test gave me fault 15 (KAM fault)... figured it was a new ECU startup issue, and drove it some. No real change in performance. Noted my cruise control and horn was dead... that was due to idiot here shorting out the lighter socket back when I was doing )2 testing and slipped while using the socket for my ground. The cruise "on" signal is powered from the horn relay side of the horn switch (cheaty way to get a +12V reference without adding a connection to the steering wheel harness), which is why popping the horn/lighter fuse also effectively kills cruise (cannot power on).

Did a KOER test after a 2nd test drive confirming that cruise was working again. Botched the test (didn't fully floor the throttle when 10 came up, only tapped it a bit), got codes 23 and 44. 23 is probably the botched test (will retry tomorrow); 44 (thermactor fault) might be the blown thermactor injection pipe?

MPG wise, it's too early to say. I'm getting no O2 codes at KOER, so I guess that's an improvement?

One other note: there has always been a high pitched squeal when running. Thought it was the thermal air diverter valve in the air cleaner housing, determined that it's not that. Re-smoked it, no vacuum leaks appeared. Sounds like it's coming from the carb but I can't nail it down. Ideas?

In reverse order, I've been around a carb that squealed and I never did figure out why. Sorry.

On getting no O2 codes on KOER, that is an improvement, for sure.

But I don't think the ECU can tell if there's a blown thermactor pipe. So I can't account for that code.

As for the fault 15, are you saying the KAM wasn't getting power and you now have it fixed? I got lost there.

Overall, I'd drive it a bit and test again.

[ratdude747]

In reverse order, I've been around a carb that squealed and I never did figure out why. Sorry.

On getting no O2 codes on KOER, that is an improvement, for sure.

But I don't think the ECU can tell if there's a blown thermactor pipe. So I can't account for that code.

As for the fault 15, are you saying the KAM wasn't getting power and you now have it fixed? I got lost there.

Overall, I'd drive it a bit and test again.

60 miles later... 11.5MPG. It was 60 miles of mostly country roads and small town commuting though... so not a fair test?

No change in performance... Due to bozo here leaving the lights on yesterday and not being able to get it home until 20 minutes ago, I haven't done another KOER test.

I'm stumped... could it be a gearing issue? I do know with some of the "older" rangers that the shallowest gearing options actually made economy worse? I'm running 3.08 gears. The only part of the driveline I haven't serviced is the transmission; the fluid didn't seem to be bad and I balked at the cost of the full change quantity of mercon V (which would include draining the TC, which I've read is part of the service?). It's not slipping or the like. It does need aligned badly, but I doubt that would have enough drag to account for a 25% loss in economy?

I really don't want to take the stock control/emissions/vacuum system out and have to redo all of it (HEI/DSII and different carb swap)... a lot of work and expense that IMO isn't worth it for my application (plus, my distaste for doing cookie cutter builds and trashing oddball technology for trashing's sake). But if it's not running right and never will, I don't want to kill my freshly rebuilt engine. I also don't want this to turn into a bigger money pit than it already has been.

 

[grumpin]

60 miles later... 11.5MPG. It was 60 miles of mostly country roads and small town commuting though... so not a fair test?

No change in performance... Due to bozo here leaving the lights on yesterday and not being able to get it home until 20 minutes ago, I haven't done another KOER test.

I'm stumped... could it be a gearing issue? I do know with some of the "older" rangers that the shallowest gearing options actually made economy worse? I'm running 3.08 gears. The only part of the driveline I haven't serviced is the transmission; the fluid didn't seem to be bad and I balked at the cost of the full change quantity of mercon V (which would include draining the TC, which I've read is part of the service?). It's not slipping or the like. It does need aligned badly, but I doubt that would have enough drag to account for a 25% loss in economy?

I really don't want to take the stock control/emissions/vacuum system out and have to redo all of it (HEI/DSII and different carb swap)... a lot of work and expense that IMO isn't worth it for my application (plus, my distaste for doing cookie cutter builds and trashing oddball technology for trashing's sake). But if it's not running right and never will, I don't want to kill my freshly rebuilt engine. I also don't want this to turn into a bigger money pit than it already has been.

Man, thats a bummer!

How many miles on the rebuilt engine? May need some more time to “seat” the rings.

I wanted to leave the EGR on my truck, but haven’t found the right setup to get it to run right. And it runs real good with it blocked off. Half or more of the emissions were gone when I got the truck.

[ratdude747]

Man, thats a bummer!

How many miles on the rebuilt engine? May need some more time to “seat” the rings.

I wanted to leave the EGR on my truck, but haven’t found the right setup to get it to run right. And it runs real good with it blocked off. Half or more of the emissions were gone when I got the truck.

Funny, I did some searching, and discovered I completely neglected my EGR system. My buddy suggested I do so when the manifold was off... "nah too expensive"... DOH!

Pulled the valve, was dirty but wasn't jammed. However, I did a vacuum test with a syringe, and discovered it's leaking like a sieve. Probably a bad diaphragm... will replace.

Edit: Found a killer deal on valves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ford-egr-valve-Standard-Motor-Products-EGV-243-1983-86-trk-100-to-350-4-9-5-0/183724154657?epid=74452957&hash=item2ac6d01f21:g:DbUAAOSwvQdchXNR

Beats $85 everywhere else!

(and yes, I crossreferenced it to the calibration list, this is the right part)

 

[grumpin]

Funny, I did some searching, and discovered I completely neglected my EGR system. My buddy suggested I do so when the manifold was off... "nah too expensive"... DOH!

Pulled the valve, was dirty but wasn't jammed. However, I did a vacuum test with a syringe, and discovered it's leaking like a sieve. Probably a bad diaphragm... will replace.

Edit: Found a killer deal on valves: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ford-egr-valve-Standard-Motor-Products-EGV-243-1983-86-trk-100-to-350-4-9-5-0/183724154657?epid=74452957&hash=item2ac6d01f21:g:DbUAAOSwvQdchXNR

Beats $85 everywhere else!

(and yes, I crossreferenced it to the calibration list, this is the right part)

Good find!

[Gary Lewis]

Good find!

Yes, good find!

I can't imagine it is either transmission, gearing, or alignment causing the low MPG. Instead I think it is a lot of little things, and the leaking EGR is one of them.

However, let's be realistic on what to expect on MPG. The best I've seen with any engine and an automatic is 14 MPG at 60 - 65 MPH. That was a 351W I built with an RV cam, ported heads, and a 2150 2bbl carb. And the gearing was 3.50 with a C6. But you have a 300 six w/an AOD and 3.08 gearing. At first blush you'd think much better MPG. But if you are just tooling around town with stop and go driving probably not as the stopping and starting kills economy. And you aren't getting into the top gears with those speeds.

So I'd fix the EGR and keep looking for little things. Like checking that the balancer hasn't slipped and you have it timed @ about 12 - 14 degrees BTDC. That the plugs and plug wires are good. No vacuum leaks to anything. And drive it on the open road for some distance to see what it'll do.