ratdude747 Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 What river is that? Where (about) do you live? Ohio River. I live in Madison, IN. That's the Madison-Milton Bridge- it carries 2 lanes of US 421 from Madison IN to Milton, KY. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 Ohio River. I live in Madison, IN. That's the Madison-Milton Bridge- it carries 2 lanes of US 421 from Madison IN to Milton, KY. It took me a while to find the TPS values, and I PUT THEM THERE. Anyway, they are on the TPS Values tab, oddly enough, here: Fuel Systems/Diagnostics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 It took me a while to find the TPS values, and I PUT THEM THERE. Anyway, they are on the TPS Values tab, oddly enough, here: Fuel Systems/Diagnostics. Could it be the AOD TV adjustment? I have never worked on one, but heard that messes something up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 4, 2019 Share Posted September 4, 2019 Could it be the AOD TV adjustment? I have never worked on one, but heard that messes something up. "David gets over 20 mpg when he baby's his 300." [ArdWrknTrk] Yes, that is true. My son has a 1984 F150 with 4.9L engine and it still has functioning "feedback ignition and carburetion". It has a manual OD transmission and was "born" with 2.47 rear gears. It has returned 26+ mpg on the Interstate. I have never heard of 3.16 rear gears. For 9" differential, there was a 2.70, 3.0 and 3.25 [i believe]. The 8.8" differential had 2.47, 3.08 and 3.55 [i believe]. With my 3.08 gears and manual OD, @ 55 mph the engine is turning ~1530 RPMs. One cannot expect brisk acceleration at that point. What is your idle speed and have you checked the vacuum @ that speed? When the truck stalled several times, was the engine still not up to operating temp.? I ask because the choke will open more slowly since the heat choke has been disabled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 4, 2019 Author Share Posted September 4, 2019 "David gets over 20 mpg when he baby's his 300." [ArdWrknTrk] Yes, that is true. My son has a 1984 F150 with 4.9L engine and it still has functioning "feedback ignition and carburetion". It has a manual OD transmission and was "born" with 2.47 rear gears. It has returned 26+ mpg on the Interstate. I have never heard of 3.16 rear gears. For 9" differential, there was a 2.70, 3.0 and 3.25 [i believe]. The 8.8" differential had 2.47, 3.08 and 3.55 [i believe]. With my 3.08 gears and manual OD, @ 55 mph the engine is turning ~1530 RPMs. One cannot expect brisk acceleration at that point. What is your idle speed and have you checked the vacuum @ that speed? When the truck stalled several times, was the engine still not up to operating temp.? I ask because the choke will open more slowly since the heat choke has been disabled. The diff tag said 3L16... I'll check again. It's an 8.8. No idea on idle speed. I have no tach. Seems to be around 1000 or less when warmed up. The stalling was cold. Running late to work. The other issue (lugging down at low RPM) is at all temps. ---- TPS values don't match the chart but are close. Off the carb (plugged in, green wire backprobed) I'm getting 0.45V at 0 degrees, and 4.20V at 100 degrees. No skips or other weirdness in the middle of the range. Close enough? Or reason to replace the sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whisler Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 The diff tag said 3L16... I'll check again. It's an 8.8. No idea on idle speed. I have no tach. Seems to be around 1000 or less when warmed up. The stalling was cold. Running late to work. The other issue (lugging down at low RPM) is at all temps. ---- TPS values don't match the chart but are close. Off the carb (plugged in, green wire backprobed) I'm getting 0.45V at 0 degrees, and 4.20V at 100 degrees. No skips or other weirdness in the middle of the range. Close enough? Or reason to replace the sensor? "Timing set to target, within 1 degree of 10 BTDC (Notched target on timing scale). Yes, I did unplug SPOUT when setting timing" Please explain what you mean by "Notched target on timing scale" I don't know 300s but I know that on my 351W the large notch on the balancer is not the timing target. Just curious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 "Timing set to target, within 1 degree of 10 BTDC (Notched target on timing scale). Yes, I did unplug SPOUT when setting timing" Please explain what you mean by "Notched target on timing scale" I don't know 300s but I know that on my 351W the large notch on the balancer is not the timing target. Just curious! Everything I read said that the large Notch on the block mounted gauge is the 10 degrees BTC to aim for. My crank pulley just has a line. If it's not (and the round hole is the 10 degree target), then maybe I'm to blame. Will do more research (or if you know for sure on the 4.9, chime in!). -------- Reinstalled the TPS. At hot idle position (not fast idle) I'm getting 0.9V. At WOT I'm getting 3.26V. Close, but not quite. ------- Diff Tag. First Character is a "W", if anybody cares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 TPS values don't match the chart but are close. Off the carb (plugged in, green wire backprobed) I'm getting 0.45V at 0 degrees, and 4.20V at 100 degrees. No skips or other weirdness in the middle of the range. Close enough? Or reason to replace the sensor? I don't think that's close enough, but let's see what other say. Personally, with the problems you are having, I'd replace the TPS. Here are the readings: Factory Yours 0 degrees: 0v .45v 100 deg 5v 4.20v Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratdude747 Posted September 5, 2019 Author Share Posted September 5, 2019 Everything I read said that the large Notch on the block mounted gauge is the 10 degrees BTC to aim for. My crank pulley just has a line. If it's not (and the round hole is the 10 degree target), then maybe I'm to blame. Will do more research (or if you know for sure on the 4.9, chime in!). -------- Reinstalled the TPS. At hot idle position (not fast idle) I'm getting 0.9V. At WOT I'm getting 3.26V. Close, but not quite. ------- Diff Tag. First Character is a "W", if anybody cares. I am an idiot. I was looking at the wrong part of the diff tag all this time... Open 3.08 gears. DOH! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 I am an idiot. I was looking at the wrong part of the diff tag all this time... Open 3.08 gears. DOH! Before replacing the TPS [probably needed, as Gary suggested], try to set the idle [warm engine with fully opened choke] to a slow steady speed [~650 RPMs]. Attach a rubber vacuum hose to an unused port [manifold vacuum] and with a vacuum gauge, adjust timing [spout disconnected] for the highest vacuum reading. This should approach 20" of Hg. You can use the same method for adjusting the idle air/fuel mixture. If the idle speed gets too high, lower with the idle speed screw and check everything again until you get a steady idle. Reconnect the spout wire and see if the engine runs better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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