Gary Lewis Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 The "jewel is the kick down linkage adapter we made. We made 2 and I can't remember if there was something wrong with this one or not. I don't remember either. But, maybe it'll work this time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 I don't remember either. But, maybe it'll work this time? Yesterday's events: I picked up the two oil sump tubes that I dropped off at the machine shop to be put in the hot tank. I installed one put the other in a bag on the shelf. I couldnt find the proper nut for the main cap so I just used a 3/8" grade 8 nut with a washer underneath it. I used some loctite on the threads of the main cap stud and the two bolts that go to the oil pump. Whenever I do this I also use some ARP torque lube under the head as well as on both sides of the washers so they dont bind up there during installation. One of the things I dont like about installing these front covers is how big the gaskets are. I always have to trim around them with a razor knife after the sealant has set up to keep it from looking "half ass". I will do that today some time. Directly after the front cover went on I installed the balancer. This is a Pioneer product and looks like a nice quality part. I painted the inside of the front main seal with some STP along with the outside seal surface of the balancer. I painted the inside with some nickel based anti seize. Of course I lubed the balancer bolt and washer with ARP torque lube before I took the torque wrench to it. Torqued it to 70 ftlbs and then to 90. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 20, 2018 Author Share Posted March 20, 2018 Yesterday's events: I picked up the two oil sump tubes that I dropped off at the machine shop to be put in the hot tank. I installed one put the other in a bag on the shelf. I couldnt find the proper nut for the main cap so I just used a 3/8" grade 8 nut with a washer underneath it. I used some loctite on the threads of the main cap stud and the two bolts that go to the oil pump. Whenever I do this I also use some ARP torque lube under the head as well as on both sides of the washers so they dont bind up there during installation. One of the things I dont like about installing these front covers is how big the gaskets are. I always have to trim around them with a razor knife after the sealant has set up to keep it from looking "half ass". I will do that today some time. Directly after the front cover went on I installed the balancer. This is a Pioneer product and looks like a nice quality part. I painted the inside of the front main seal with some STP along with the outside seal surface of the balancer. I painted the inside with some nickel based anti seize. Of course I lubed the balancer bolt and washer with ARP torque lube before I took the torque wrench to it. Torqued it to 70 ftlbs and then to 90. I have a couple of questions for the members here: I believe the timing indicator goes on the left side of the balancer underneath the two front cover bolts? Also, what color should I paint the timing indicator? Should I paint it like a yellow or something that stands out? Whatever color I use I am going to paint the dipstick handles the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 I have a couple of questions for the members here: I believe the timing indicator goes on the left side of the balancer underneath the two front cover bolts? Also, what color should I paint the timing indicator? Should I paint it like a yellow or something that stands out? Whatever color I use I am going to paint the dipstick handles the same. You are making good progress. The timing pointer isn't shown in the illustrations in the catalog. But I do believe it is on the passenger's side and under two bolts of the timing cover. But I'm not sure it needs to be painted to stand out. It really just masks the light from the timing gun, and it is the harmonic balancer and its marks that you need to see. Or, is my remembrance of the pointer on a W wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 You are making good progress. The timing pointer isn't shown in the illustrations in the catalog. But I do believe it is on the passenger's side and under two bolts of the timing cover. But I'm not sure it needs to be painted to stand out. It really just masks the light from the timing gun, and it is the harmonic balancer and its marks that you need to see. Or, is my remembrance of the pointer on a W wrong? Rotate the crank until #1 piston is at TDC (top of bore) and see where the 0° TDC mark is, that's where the pointer goes. I know on the 460s it is on the right (passenger) side. FWIW, manuals, parts lists and mechanics use left or right as the engine sits in the vehicle. From the pictures in AllData, it appears to be the same as the 460s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Rotate the crank until #1 piston is at TDC (top of bore) and see where the 0° TDC mark is, that's where the pointer goes. I know on the 460s it is on the right (passenger) side. FWIW, manuals, parts lists and mechanics use left or right as the engine sits in the vehicle. From the pictures in AllData, it appears to be the same as the 460s. I havent made a lot of progress for a few reasons. I am battling a dirty shop which is being cleaned as I go. I have a few parts missing somewhere that I need to button up the lower end of the build. I want to get the pan on before I go to the top end of the motor. It seems I have discovered two different length oil dipsticks . I think I have a third somewhere to check the other two (I hope). Also, I need to find the actual dipstick tube so I can put it in the pan. It looks to me like the dipstick tube slips in and then a fitting threads onto the end inside of the pan. It looks impossible to do after the pan is attached. I am betting the tube needs to be cleaned up and painted as well. I blasted and powder coated the oil pan awhile back. When doing so the dipstick tube adapted had to be removed from the pan so it all could be cleaned and wouldnt run oil out from the seams when in the powder coat oven. Then the adapter which was riveted needed to be tapped 1/4"-20 tpi in order to be re attached. I put the bolts into the pan so it could be mocked up for masking before I put the silicone on it for installation. I just didnt want a sloppy looking install job. So, here it is ready for the dipstick: Does anybody know if our pans take a 1/2" drain plug or 7/16"? I want to order a magnetic one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 I havent made a lot of progress for a few reasons. I am battling a dirty shop which is being cleaned as I go. I have a few parts missing somewhere that I need to button up the lower end of the build. I want to get the pan on before I go to the top end of the motor. It seems I have discovered two different length oil dipsticks . I think I have a third somewhere to check the other two (I hope). Also, I need to find the actual dipstick tube so I can put it in the pan. It looks to me like the dipstick tube slips in and then a fitting threads onto the end inside of the pan. It looks impossible to do after the pan is attached. I am betting the tube needs to be cleaned up and painted as well. I blasted and powder coated the oil pan awhile back. When doing so the dipstick tube adapted had to be removed from the pan so it all could be cleaned and wouldnt run oil out from the seams when in the powder coat oven. Then the adapter which was riveted needed to be tapped 1/4"-20 tpi in order to be re attached. I put the bolts into the pan so it could be mocked up for masking before I put the silicone on it for installation. I just didnt want a sloppy looking install job. So, here it is ready for the dipstick: Does anybody know if our pans take a 1/2" drain plug or 7/16"? I want to order a magnetic one. Brandon - I hate to tell you, but I'm pretty sure you put the dip stick adapter onto the pan backwards. It should be inside the pan and the bolts going through from the outside into the adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Brandon - I hate to tell you, but I'm pretty sure you put the dip stick adapter onto the pan backwards. It should be inside the pan and the bolts going through from the outside into the adapter. Well, thats not good... I should have dug the old one out and looked. I tried it a couple of different ways and this looked the best lol. The drain plug is a 1/2" 20 TPI by the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 Well, thats not good... I should have dug the old one out and looked. I tried it a couple of different ways and this looked the best lol. The drain plug is a 1/2" 20 TPI by the way. Went to the garagemahal for a little powder coating and some more carb tech. I don't have an after picture of the PC work, but I will post soon. I PC'd the new later model battery tray that will be swapped in as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 Went to the garagemahal for a little powder coating and some more carb tech. I don't have an after picture of the PC work, but I will post soon. I PC'd the new later model battery tray that will be swapped in as well. The dipstick dilemma : I showed up at Gary's with an assortment of dipsticks and dipstick tubes. Upon inspection all of these dipstick were different.it was a hot mess to get it figured out. Gary had to break out some microfiche and use the microfiche tower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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