The Camano Experience

[Gary Lewis]

I have been switching to a silicone hose clamp. They don't have any worm gear grooves to cut the hose. Like these Gates ones.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/hose-clamp-17485/b2cc3b7032ec/gates-7-8-inch-to-1-1-8-inch-hose-clamp/32312/4330928?q=32312&pos=0

I like those!

[grumpin]

I like those!

Those are slick!

[kramttocs]

I have been switching to a silicone hose clamp. They don't have any worm gear grooves to cut the hose. Like these Gates ones.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/gates-3728/belts-hoses-16454/hoses-25069/hose-clamp-17485/b2cc3b7032ec/gates-7-8-inch-to-1-1-8-inch-hose-clamp/32312/4330928?q=32312&pos=0

Thanks a lot Bruce! I like that style. I've bookmarked those in case the spring style doesn't work out.

As for progress-

My new heater core came in as well as the Thermocure. I am still waiting on the 90 degree radiator drain adapter/petcock. The petcock that came with my (knockoff) Champion radiator makes an absolute mess and since I will be flushing it a number of times to remove the rust, I don't want to deal with trying to hold a hose up to it each time.

Additionally, my aux backup lights came in.

These are driving lights vs fog lights but looks played into it a lot and PIAA didn't make Series 40 Fog lights in this style.

Front series 40 driving lights that came with the truck:

Rear series 40 driving lights:

The plan is to mount them in existing holes in the bumper "step" piece. They are mostly protected by the hitch and aren't inline with the tires so rock damage should be minimal but will have to keep an eye on them for awhile.

A lot of my time lately has been rewiring my relay boxes so once I cleanup my diagrams I'll post those changes.

 

[Rembrant]

My new heater core came in as well as the Thermocure. I am still waiting on the 90 degree radiator drain adapter/petcock. The petcock that came with my (knockoff) Champion radiator makes an absolute mess and since I will be flushing it a number of times to remove the rust, I don't want to deal with trying to hold a hose up to it each time.

Curious to hear how the Thermocure works out, and I'm curious about that 90* petcock...is it like this?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator-drain-petcock-f-100-1948-1979/p/HW4035/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmL-ABhDFARIsAKywVacCvI3Tod3cETOYOvWFISMnanX640uNYMFL7EGQlKdQ_tpYOYgQkPwaAil7EALw_wcB

I need to drain/flush my 300 at least once, probably a couple times.

 

[Gary Lewis]

My new heater core came in as well as the Thermocure. I am still waiting on the 90 degree radiator drain adapter/petcock. The petcock that came with my (knockoff) Champion radiator makes an absolute mess and since I will be flushing it a number of times to remove the rust, I don't want to deal with trying to hold a hose up to it each time.

Curious to hear how the Thermocure works out, and I'm curious about that 90* petcock...is it like this?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator-drain-petcock-f-100-1948-1979/p/HW4035/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmL-ABhDFARIsAKywVacCvI3Tod3cETOYOvWFISMnanX640uNYMFL7EGQlKdQ_tpYOYgQkPwaAil7EALw_wcB

I need to drain/flush my 300 at least once, probably a couple times.

You are wise to at least be checking the tightness of the petcock. I had a drip I couldn't find and it was that they'd not screwed the petcock in tightly on the Champion radiator.

But I do like the 90 degree one, and if I didn't have the system full I'd probably change. Makes a whole lot of sense.

I hope the Thermocure takes care of the rust, and that it is the cause of your problem.

How do you know your radiator is a Champion knockoff?

Those lights will make a huge difference. Backing up in the dark will be sooooo much easier!

[kramttocs]

My new heater core came in as well as the Thermocure. I am still waiting on the 90 degree radiator drain adapter/petcock. The petcock that came with my (knockoff) Champion radiator makes an absolute mess and since I will be flushing it a number of times to remove the rust, I don't want to deal with trying to hold a hose up to it each time.

Curious to hear how the Thermocure works out, and I'm curious about that 90* petcock...is it like this?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/radiator-drain-petcock-f-100-1948-1979/p/HW4035/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAmL-ABhDFARIsAKywVacCvI3Tod3cETOYOvWFISMnanX640uNYMFL7EGQlKdQ_tpYOYgQkPwaAil7EALw_wcB

I need to drain/flush my 300 at least once, probably a couple times.

A lot like that. I ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYLXUI2?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

I didn't come across the ponyparts one the other day or no doubt would have gone with that design. Thinking about it now though - if I was keeping a hose on there but tucked away, I'd opt for the barb. Since I plan on only putting the hose on when draining, the smooth may be easier to take on/off. Probably 6 one way, half dozen the other.

The thermocure seemed to be highly reviewed so figured worth a shot. I'll need to check the forecast and plan out some drives.

Maybe unbranded is a better term for the radiator. I just didn't want to call it a Champion when it came in a generic box. I've looked at their 'knockoff vs original' page and the only difference is the cap so I really do think they came from the same factory but again, didn't want to misrepresent.

Looking forward to seeing the lights in action. Hooked them up to a battery on the workbench and they definitely have a far out focused beam. Would have much rather had the fogs but since I am only planning to use them when a need arises, any extra light will be better than none.

Have you already identified which lights you are going with for yours? I've been tossing up wiring ideas that change daily so you should prioritize that project on BB

 

[kramttocs]

A lot like that. I ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYLXUI2?ref=ppx_pt2_dt_b_prod_image

I didn't come across the ponyparts one the other day or no doubt would have gone with that design. Thinking about it now though - if I was keeping a hose on there but tucked away, I'd opt for the barb. Since I plan on only putting the hose on when draining, the smooth may be easier to take on/off. Probably 6 one way, half dozen the other.

The thermocure seemed to be highly reviewed so figured worth a shot. I'll need to check the forecast and plan out some drives.

Maybe unbranded is a better term for the radiator. I just didn't want to call it a Champion when it came in a generic box. I've looked at their 'knockoff vs original' page and the only difference is the cap so I really do think they came from the same factory but again, didn't want to misrepresent.

Looking forward to seeing the lights in action. Hooked them up to a battery on the workbench and they definitely have a far out focused beam. Would have much rather had the fogs but since I am only planning to use them when a need arises, any extra light will be better than none.

Have you already identified which lights you are going with for yours? I've been tossing up wiring ideas that change daily so you should prioritize that project on BB

Adding this for my own reference since it was discussed in another thread and I found the info for my voltmeter conversion:

14.8 @ 3/4 setting.

~13.5 @ 1/2 and 12 @ 1/4 so probably about 12.7 @ 3/8.

Alt output as tested by Powermaster = 98 idle. 157 at speed.

[kramttocs]

Adding this for my own reference since it was discussed in another thread and I found the info for my voltmeter conversion:

14.8 @ 3/4 setting.

~13.5 @ 1/2 and 12 @ 1/4 so probably about 12.7 @ 3/8.

Alt output as tested by Powermaster = 98 idle. 157 at speed.

Got a few little things taken care of this weekend.

Removed the heater core and replaced with the new one. I haven't tested the old one yet but I am not convinced it was leaking from the core and am thinking it was self-inflicted . After I had reinstalled the old one during the rebuild process, I felt like the tubes coming through the firewall were a little too close to the metal opening. To add some protection I wrapped the tubes a couple times with some of that silicone repair tape. Since it was already installed, I didn't really get the wrap as far in as I'd like. I am thinking that the hose clamp was a little on the edge of the tape and coolant was working its way under the tape and inside the cab where it was showing itself.

I went ahead and installed the new core and some of the tape again (before installing) but got it right at the edge of the firewall so there is no way the clamps could end up on it. We shall see.

It's bypassed right now until I do a few coolant flushes.

Next was the GVOD 4wd lockout (ground) wire. I had made a jumper in the blue 4wd indicator light wire at the connector beneath the brake booster and that worked fine but was a bit cluttered. Removed the dash, pulled the 4wd indicator light from the cluster and crimped/soldered a wire to the ground leg of the light. Added a factory connector to the end (CG60, CG59) and ran it to the GVOD module.

Recently Gary and Bill discussed how the trailer wiring works in later years vs 80-86. Taking a cue from that and since I had some spare relays in the driver side box, I decided to use two of them for the trailer turn/stop instead of just splicing into the truck wiring at the rear crossmembers. "Splicing" meaning that even with the trailer tow package like my truck has, Ford still just tied in back there. Hooked the triggers up and will run dedicated load wires to the back when I run the aux backup light wire. I crimped the trigger wires on top of the appropriate terminals in C305B near the steering column. Secure but removable without a trace if desired.

Here are the wiring diagrams I am using for the ssVEC boxes. Had to make do with some of the Objects but it works for my needs.

Driver side:

I greyed out the starter kill since while nothing new it hasn't been discussed if we should make something like that for our trucks easily visible.

Passenger:

 

[Gary Lewis]

Got a few little things taken care of this weekend.

Removed the heater core and replaced with the new one. I haven't tested the old one yet but I am not convinced it was leaking from the core and am thinking it was self-inflicted . After I had reinstalled the old one during the rebuild process, I felt like the tubes coming through the firewall were a little too close to the metal opening. To add some protection I wrapped the tubes a couple times with some of that silicone repair tape. Since it was already installed, I didn't really get the wrap as far in as I'd like. I am thinking that the hose clamp was a little on the edge of the tape and coolant was working its way under the tape and inside the cab where it was showing itself.

I went ahead and installed the new core and some of the tape again (before installing) but got it right at the edge of the firewall so there is no way the clamps could end up on it. We shall see.

It's bypassed right now until I do a few coolant flushes.

Next was the GVOD 4wd lockout (ground) wire. I had made a jumper in the blue 4wd indicator light wire at the connector beneath the brake booster and that worked fine but was a bit cluttered. Removed the dash, pulled the 4wd indicator light from the cluster and crimped/soldered a wire to the ground leg of the light. Added a factory connector to the end (CG60, CG59) and ran it to the GVOD module.

Recently Gary and Bill discussed how the trailer wiring works in later years vs 80-86. Taking a cue from that and since I had some spare relays in the driver side box, I decided to use two of them for the trailer turn/stop instead of just splicing into the truck wiring at the rear crossmembers. "Splicing" meaning that even with the trailer tow package like my truck has, Ford still just tied in back there. Hooked the triggers up and will run dedicated load wires to the back when I run the aux backup light wire. I crimped the trigger wires on top of the appropriate terminals in C305B near the steering column. Secure but removable without a trace if desired.

Here are the wiring diagrams I am using for the ssVEC boxes. Had to make do with some of the Objects but it works for my needs.

Driver side:

I greyed out the starter kill since while nothing new it hasn't been discussed if we should make something like that for our trucks easily visible.

Passenger:

Scott - You've done what I just did yesterday, which is to make the aux battery required. I meant to mention that on BB's thread, but forgot.

Yesterday when I was setting up the aux power relay, meaning the old aux battery relay, I realized that the two fuse links on it are for the trailer lights and trailer power. And while it used to be that the relay had the main battery connected on one side and the aux battery on the other, it no longer does.

So, if the aux battery is dead or if it is removed, until the CH smart isolator closes the things counting on the aux battery won't function. And I think that's now the case on your truck. Right?

[kramttocs]

Scott - You've done what I just did yesterday, which is to make the aux battery required. I meant to mention that on BB's thread, but forgot.

Yesterday when I was setting up the aux power relay, meaning the old aux battery relay, I realized that the two fuse links on it are for the trailer lights and trailer power. And while it used to be that the relay had the main battery connected on one side and the aux battery on the other, it no longer does.

So, if the aux battery is dead or if it is removed, until the CH smart isolator closes the things counting on the aux battery won't function. And I think that's now the case on your truck. Right?

You are correct and good eye. As with BB, I also have the trailer lights and trailer charge fuse links on the aux battery side of the isolator.

I've tried to make it so that in an emergency if I lose the aux battery and/or somehow lose the isolator, the truck will still function safely.

So things like the headlights, blower, trailer brake power, trailer flashers and choke work off the main battery.