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Rear disc brake conversion


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What's the distance between the spring perches as opposed to the F-Series? Do you have to relo them?

And is the track/overall width the same?

E-series is narrower than an F-series. The later RV/box truck E350 rear disc setup could, in theory, be used on an F350 dually. Unfortunately my favorite junkyard doesn't have any yet.

Back to our regularly scheduled report. Wednesday I picked up a big bearing splitter at Harbor Freight in Salisbury. I found it wouldn't quite get the bearings completely off the differential. When I went to Virginia Beach Friday, I picked up a pair of 5/8-18 X 2" Gr 8 bolts to use to push the bearings off. Worked perfectly.

Next phase, pressed a new inner pinion bearing and a .015" shim (original had .025", new pinion has -10 on it). Assembled the pinion, less crush sleeve for a trial fit. Pressed new side bearings on the differential, and installed the new tone ring and 3.73 ring gear (same 41 tooth count as the 4.10, pinion is 11 vs 10 tooth). Put the differential in and with the starting shim size on the left, and all slack taken up on the right, I had 0 backlash. Removed .020 from the left side, added .020 to the right side, .009" backlash, tolerance is .008-.015, desired is .012-.015.

Time to roll a pattern and see where everything is.

Drive side:

Drive_side.thumb.jpg.99d0477f71af2147afe32049f3ea1a37.jpg

Coast side:

Coast_side.thumb.jpg.669efef4f225c4b02f4f8459f7f14f35.jpg

Looks pretty good to me.

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E-series is narrower than an F-series. The later RV/box truck E350 rear disc setup could, in theory, be used on an F350 dually. Unfortunately my favorite junkyard doesn't have any yet.

Back to our regularly scheduled report. Wednesday I picked up a big bearing splitter at Harbor Freight in Salisbury. I found it wouldn't quite get the bearings completely off the differential. When I went to Virginia Beach Friday, I picked up a pair of 5/8-18 X 2" Gr 8 bolts to use to push the bearings off. Worked perfectly.

Next phase, pressed a new inner pinion bearing and a .015" shim (original had .025", new pinion has -10 on it). Assembled the pinion, less crush sleeve for a trial fit. Pressed new side bearings on the differential, and installed the new tone ring and 3.73 ring gear (same 41 tooth count as the 4.10, pinion is 11 vs 10 tooth). Put the differential in and with the starting shim size on the left, and all slack taken up on the right, I had 0 backlash. Removed .020 from the left side, added .020 to the right side, .009" backlash, tolerance is .008-.015, desired is .012-.015.

Time to roll a pattern and see where everything is.

Drive side:

Coast side:

Looks pretty good to me.

Looking good, Bill! I've never done it, but I've read about it many times. And what I see in your pics look spot-on. :nabble_smiley_good:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Several times, in fact. :nabble_anim_claps:

Ok, finally received the replacement yoke/companion flange yesterday afternoon via UPS, got the pinion preload set and intalled the differential and it's preload shim packs. I rechecked the gear pattern to make sure nothing had shifted and installed the rear cover, owner had sand blasted the outside and primed it (he's had it since labor day).

Then it was let's see if we can make the hydraulics fit. End result, shorten the two hard lines, mount the brackets for the hard line to hose connections to the rear of the spring pads so the U-bolts will clear.

Cover and center of brake lines:

DSCN3658.thumb.jpg.14ed12f754e3f9322219726192a7529e.jpg

Right end brake line:

DSCN3657.thumb.jpg.a07ed56819fa333c74d53835ceb73fcf.jpg

Left end brake line:

DSCN3659.thumb.jpg.272175f634c6caf62275aa826c413e44.jpg

Screws holding the brackets are old spare U-joint strap screws.

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Ok, finally received the replacement yoke/companion flange yesterday afternoon via UPS, got the pinion preload set and intalled the differential and it's preload shim packs. I rechecked the gear pattern to make sure nothing had shifted and installed the rear cover, owner had sand blasted the outside and primed it (he's had it since labor day).

Then it was let's see if we can make the hydraulics fit. End result, shorten the two hard lines, mount the brackets for the hard line to hose connections to the rear of the spring pads so the U-bolts will clear.

Cover and center of brake lines:

Right end brake line:

Left end brake line:

Screws holding the brackets are old spare U-joint strap screws.

Looking good, Bill! You'll have that thing back under the truck this week?

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Looking good, Bill! You'll have that thing back under the truck this week?

Not my truck, John Gleason is so well organised if it gets under his truck by the end of the year I'll be amazed. He has a new bed to put on too. I recommended he remove the old bed first, then do the axle while it's easier.

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Not my truck, John Gleason is so well organised if it gets under his truck by the end of the year I'll be amazed. He has a new bed to put on too. I recommended he remove the old bed first, then do the axle while it's easier.

Looks great!

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