Sac79 Posted February 15, 2020 Author Share Posted February 15, 2020 That really does look Great, Rob! A lot of work went into cleaning and painting that frame and running gear. Which Rancho shocks do you have, and why did you choose them? Thanks Jim. Yes, the frame and axles were definitely the biggest task so far. I'm pretty sick(probably actually too) of applying Chassis Saver by hand with little sponge brushes. The Rancho's are the RS5000 range. Only got them as I needed something to go with the leveling coils(1.5" lift). They fit the bill and were reasonably priced. Can't find them on Rockauto anymore, but that's where I got them. As it turns out, they aren't perfect, with the thicker tube at the bottom, they are awfully close to the coils. I'll know when I get the truck on the road if it's workable or not... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted February 15, 2020 Share Posted February 15, 2020 That really does look Great, Rob! A lot of work went into cleaning and painting that frame and running gear. Which Rancho shocks do you have, and why did you choose them? Thanks Jim. Yes, the frame and axles were definitely the biggest task so far. I'm pretty sick(probably actually too) of applying Chassis Saver by hand with little sponge brushes. The Rancho's are the RS5000 range. Only got them as I needed something to go with the leveling coils(1.5" lift). They fit the bill and were reasonably priced. Can't find them on Rockauto anymore, but that's where I got them. As it turns out, they aren't perfect, with the thicker tube at the bottom, they are awfully close to the coils. I'll know when I get the truck on the road if it's workable or not... Looks great! Nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 I got some generic hardware from Tractor Supply, grade 5 bolts and grade 8 washers, to replace the original stuff. I also used both gaskets which helped level the difference between the manifolds. It appears to be rock-solid, but who knows what vibration can do. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to make sure the exhaust manifolds don't slip... I'm happy with how it looks, so if it holds I probably won't bother with changing to a later head. It has been recommended by a former Ford Engineer, to take a piece of "L" shaped channel, ~1" long with a hole drilled into it on one side, which slips over the rear most bolt of each exhaust manifold. This effectively captures the manifold and prevents it from slipping downward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 It has been recommended by a former Ford Engineer, to take a piece of "L" shaped channel, ~1" long with a hole drilled into it on one side, which slips over the rear most bolt of each exhaust manifold. This effectively captures the manifold and prevents it from slipping downward. Thanks David. I remember you saying this in the other thread. I'm picturing a 90 deg piece forming a 'ledge' for the bottom edge of the manifold to rest on, is that right? You also mentioned that other owners have not done the 'upgrade' and experienced no issues, I'm hoping I can be one of those. If not, I'll consider the reinforcement or an EFI head, which should work right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted February 18, 2020 Share Posted February 18, 2020 Thanks David. I remember you saying this in the other thread. I'm picturing a 90 deg piece forming a 'ledge' for the bottom edge of the manifold to rest on, is that right? You also mentioned that other owners have not done the 'upgrade' and experienced no issues, I'm hoping I can be one of those. If not, I'll consider the reinforcement or an EFI head, which should work right? Yes... to both of the above statements. If an EFI head is used, there will be 3 additional holes for bolts, which are for securing the exhaust manifolds, so no brackets are necessary. However, keep in mind that the EFI head has smaller combustion chambers [+~1/2 point compression ratio] and fast burn characteristics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted February 20, 2020 Share Posted February 20, 2020 It has been recommended by a former Ford Engineer, to take a piece of "L" shaped channel, ~1" long with a hole drilled into it on one side, which slips over the rear most bolt of each exhaust manifold. This effectively captures the manifold and prevents it from slipping downward. Thanks David. I remember you saying this in the other thread. I'm picturing a 90 deg piece forming a 'ledge' for the bottom edge of the manifold to rest on, is that right? You also mentioned that other owners have not done the 'upgrade' and experienced no issues, I'm hoping I can be one of those. If not, I'll consider the reinforcement or an EFI head, which should work right? Look at posts #3 & 12: https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=78974&p=609538&hilit=FI+clips+Clifford+alignment#p609538 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted February 20, 2020 Author Share Posted February 20, 2020 It has been recommended by a former Ford Engineer, to take a piece of "L" shaped channel, ~1" long with a hole drilled into it on one side, which slips over the rear most bolt of each exhaust manifold. This effectively captures the manifold and prevents it from slipping downward. Thanks David. I remember you saying this in the other thread. I'm picturing a 90 deg piece forming a 'ledge' for the bottom edge of the manifold to rest on, is that right? You also mentioned that other owners have not done the 'upgrade' and experienced no issues, I'm hoping I can be one of those. If not, I'll consider the reinforcement or an EFI head, which should work right? Look at posts #3 & 12: https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=78974&p=609538&hilit=FI+clips+Clifford+alignment#p609538 Thanks David. I guess I need to be a registered user though as I'm unable to see the picture. Regardless I have a good idea of what's required. And I know exactly where the manifolds are located as I aligned the bottom of the EFI manifold tabs with the bottom of the gasket, so I can easily see if they're shifting. I'll keep an eye out for an appropriately shaped and sized piece of metal to cut into retainer clips, just in case... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbertha1985 Posted February 21, 2020 Share Posted February 21, 2020 So I managed to find a good set of EFI exhaust manifolds at a local salvage yard and the owner was kind enough to let me pull it from one of his 'complete' engines. Made removing it reasonably easy and quick. I also ordered an intake manifold. I painted the intake with engine enamel and the exhaust with flameproof, hopefully it holds up. The exhaust manifolds were sand blasted first. I got some generic hardware from Tractor Supply, grade 5 bolts and grade 8 washers, to replace the original stuff. I also used both gaskets which helped level the difference between the manifolds. It appears to be rock-solid, but who knows what vibration can do. I'll definitely keep an eye on it to make sure the exhaust manifolds don't slip... I'm happy with how it looks, so if it holds I probably won't bother with changing to a later head. I ordered the Y-pipe from Advanced Auto. I painted the top part with the Flameproof(VHT) as well, hopefully it doesn't flake off or smoke away at the first start up! I got a replacement pushrod cover from the same engine a few days later. Don't ask why I needed a new one... That engine does not look healthy inside, so I probably wouldn't want that head anyway... It cleaned up nicely though... It is a different design from the carb models, any particular reason? Now I just have to order a carb spacer, wiring harness and probably HEI distributor to continue the engine assembly. The cab is going back on first... I've just joined and I've learned more about my inline 6 motor in 10 minutes than I have in 5 years. thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted February 21, 2020 Author Share Posted February 21, 2020 I've just joined and I've learned more about my inline 6 motor in 10 minutes than I have in 5 years. thank you! Hi Jon, welcome. There is definitely better places to 'learn' than on my thread as I'm only learning myself! But I'm happy to share... And we are lucky as we have the easiest engines to work on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted March 13, 2020 Author Share Posted March 13, 2020 Hi Jon, welcome. There is definitely better places to 'learn' than on my thread as I'm only learning myself! But I'm happy to share... And we are lucky as we have the easiest engines to work on! I'm happy to report that more progress has been made. Cab mounted... And the windshield cleaned. Inside cleaned and the floor painted with Chassis Saver. The underside was painted with CS too. BTW, which way is the vent hose in the above picture suppose to be orientated? Driveshafts... New bushings on the stabilizer bar and all new steering 'rack'. It's my old steering box, just cleaned and painted. I bought a rebuild kit for the pump and I plan on using that too. Rear stabilizer with new bushings and end-links. 'New' alternator bracket. I also got a remanufactured alternator as I didn't feel like cleaning and painting the old one, but for a $10 core I kept it just in case the new Chinese one fails... It does have a Motorcraft case though. I'm going to have to remove the bracket again to install the alternator... And my comical looking HEI distributor. It fits but it is huge! And then finally I'm currently busy with interior... I went with Killmat after studying Gary's cost evaluation... Padding and carpet to follow. But I'm also working on finishing the brakes and the fuel. Then probably putting more of the interior together before starting the wiring. I have some unknown parts, but I'll post questions in the main section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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