Rear end gearing

[Nothing Special]

Sometimes computers seriously hinder attempts to maximize economy. On Blue there's no way to lock it in a higher gear w/o placing it in Manual mode, and then you'd better stay on top of things closely. But, it can be done and you can get deep into the turbo before allowing it to shift.

I'd wondered about doing that on our vacation where we towed the Sea Ray to Lake Powell. In the end I just locked it out of 6th for the most part, save for looooooong downhill runs, and let it do its own thing shifting down from there.

Anyway, at least the newer trucks have that ability. And, with my Mongoose cable and Core Tuning software I can reprogram the E4OD for Dad's truck for shift points, lock/unlock points, etc. Bill's done that already on Darth.

I thought about getting a tuner to fix the shift points in my '02. But I really didn't like the truck anyway, so I wasn't thrilled with that idea either. After owning it for about 2 years I started seriously looking to replace it. And three years later I compromised on my desire to get a truck with a manual trans and ended up getting my current '97.

[Steve83]

Please understand that I am not being argumentative...

It's a discussion forum - if we all agreed on everything, it would be pretty boring & pointless. But none of us will ever learn anything if we don't all voice our opinions. Say what you think - that's what I'm doing...

With a gas engine lower vacuum (more open throttle) gives more efficiency...

Yeah, I took a few semesters of Engineering w/Mechanical Option & Mech. Engineering, too. So I've worked those formulas a few times, and I realize that's what the numbers say.

But I've also seen it put to the test on MythBusters & Top Gear (the original British series), and their real-world numbers proved that a big engine driving in normal traffic or even on a race track gets better fuel economy than a smaller engine driving the exact same speeds on the same course at WOT. (On Top Gear, they used a BMW 7-series sedan to follow a G-Whiz at its top speed.) I've observed the same thing with my vehicles.

The reason many people THINK gears have a big effect on MPG is that most people who regear forget to recalibrate their odometers, which throws off their MPG calculations.

In any case: you're driving an antique truck - it's never going to be an econobox.

...pumping losses at low "throttle"...

I'm not sure what exactly you mean by that term.

At closed throttle, the engine is pumping nearly NO air, so there is no loss - the vacuum in the cylinder pulls the piston back up. It's at WOT that the engine loses the most energy because it has to not only move the air through the cylinder - it also has to compress it.

If you're talking about NET power (including the power produced by combustion), then there can never be a significant loss, or the engine wouldn't run. It would stall. When you let off the gas & it slows down, there's only a tiny loss in the engine. Nowhere near enough to affect long-term (trip vs. instantaneous) MPG.

And, in fact the 2 mpg difference is...

Negligible, IMO. It's so small that it's hard to tell if that's a real difference, or just a normal variation due to calculations, or weather, or driving style, or average speed, or... The gear difference was 4.10 to 3.15, which is an RPM increase of nearly 30%. But the MPG change couldn't have been that high, unless the trucks in question were only getting ~7MPG to begin with. And the quote said that tiny change in MPG only appeared at high speeds - was that due strictly to gearing, or were aerodynamics & hills contributing to those 2 MsPG? I bet I can get more than 2MPG lower than you if I drive your truck for a day.

...its impossible to do a proper scientific expirement in the real world on real roads while any or all of these conditions can change.

The closest I could imagine would be similar drivers in identical trucks (other than gears) in convoy for a few thousand miles of varied driving. But who has time or $$$ for that?

...it should be very indicative of the kinds of MPG change that would be seen by changing axle gears.

I don't think many people are changing their axle ratio by 30%. In the context of the original post, that would mean switching from 3.54 to 4.60 or 2.73 gears.

[85lebaront2]

Sometimes computers seriously hinder attempts to maximize economy. On Blue there's no way to lock it in a higher gear w/o placing it in Manual mode, and then you'd better stay on top of things closely. But, it can be done and you can get deep into the turbo before allowing it to shift.

I'd wondered about doing that on our vacation where we towed the Sea Ray to Lake Powell. In the end I just locked it out of 6th for the most part, save for looooooong downhill runs, and let it do its own thing shifting down from there.

Anyway, at least the newer trucks have that ability. And, with my Mongoose cable and Core Tuning software I can reprogram the E4OD for Dad's truck for shift points, lock/unlock points, etc. Bill's done that already on Darth.

One of the more interesting things I discovered years ago, and was really PO'd when they put the national 55 mph speed limit in was that some engines do better at higher rpm. Two specific examples, first my 1966 Shelby GT350, at that point 289 with dual Holley 465 cfm 4 barrel carbs. at 55 mph car got 18 mpg average, at 70 mph it climbed to 22 mpg. Engine basically "came on the cam" and most of the mechanical only ignition advance was in at 3500 rpm in 4th for 70 mph at 55 it was turning 2750 rpm. Second was my 1963 Jetfire, the turbocharged F85, 215 ci, 215 HP (according to Oldsmobile) it had the Roto-Hydramatic model 5 and 3.31 gears with 15" tyres. I removed the spring from under the power enrichment piston in the Rochester RC one barrel side draft carburetor. At 55 mph it got 18-19 mpg, a friend borrowed it to drive to and from Richmond VA from Newport News for medical appointments, he came back and told me he was getting 23 mpg running 80 with it. At 70+ mph the boost gauge would be just under 0, maybe 1/2" of manifold vacuum, Garret turbo was doing most of the pumping and with the spring removed it stayed in the cruise mixture condition, but probably no vacuum advance, just mechanical.

[Nothing Special]

...pumping losses at low "throttle"...

I'm not sure what exactly you mean by that term.

At closed throttle, the engine is pumping nearly NO air, so there is no loss - the vacuum in the cylinder pulls the piston back up. It's at WOT that the engine loses the most energy because it has to not only move the air through the cylinder - it also has to compress it.

If you're talking about NET power (including the power produced by combustion), then there can never be a significant loss, or the engine wouldn't run. It would stall. When you let off the gas & it slows down, there's only a tiny loss in the engine. Nowhere near enough to affect long-term (trip vs. instantaneous) MPG.

The way my ICE professor explained it was that diesel engines get better mileage than gassers for three reasons, which all contribute about the same amount. The most obvious one is that diesel fuel has a higher energy density than gas. More BTUs per gallon means fewer gallons for the same number of BTUs.

The second is that diesels run a higher compression ratio. The higher the compression ratio (to a point) the more efficient an engine is. High compression gas engines are in the 10:1 range. Diesels are 17:0 - 21:1.

The third reason is what I'm talking about here. It takes energy to pull air past a closed throttle plate. Gas engines don't have this loss at WOT, diesels never have it.

And no, we didn't do experiments to prove that, and maybe he was all wet. But overall he really seemed to know his stuff.

And to further clarify, in this discussion I'm talking about ENGINE efficiency, not VEHICLE efficiency. Vehicle efficiency is what we most often care about: how far can I get on a certain amount of fuel. Engine efficiency is how much power can I get out of a certain amount of fuel. This is one of the factors that play into vehicle efficiency, but definitely not the only one.

What we did learn, both theoretically and experimentally in those courses, was that the best engine efficiency came at WOT and at the engines torque peak (a detail I hadn't included before). That's where the engine does the best job of turning the energy in the fuel into power.

However, running a truck engine at WOT at the torque peak is not a good way to get good vehicle mileage! You will be accelerating like crazy unless you are either already going really fast, going up a steep hill, or otherwise pushing against a very large load, none of which is good for mileage. So for best vehicle efficiency you do have to sacrifice some engine efficiency. We typically do that by closing the throttle, but in the case of the Ford six on the lab dyno we saw that, at least in that engine, keeping the throttle open but decreasing power output by dropping the engine speed gave better vehicle efficiency.

We did go through the "thought experiment" at that time to ask if that vehicle would be reasonable to drive, and came to the conclusion that probably no one would want to drive the car if it actually had that tall gearing.

[1986F150Six]

...pumping losses at low "throttle"...

I'm not sure what exactly you mean by that term.

At closed throttle, the engine is pumping nearly NO air, so there is no loss - the vacuum in the cylinder pulls the piston back up. It's at WOT that the engine loses the most energy because it has to not only move the air through the cylinder - it also has to compress it.

If you're talking about NET power (including the power produced by combustion), then there can never be a significant loss, or the engine wouldn't run. It would stall. When you let off the gas & it slows down, there's only a tiny loss in the engine. Nowhere near enough to affect long-term (trip vs. instantaneous) MPG.

The way my ICE professor explained it was that diesel engines get better mileage than gassers for three reasons, which all contribute about the same amount. The most obvious one is that diesel fuel has a higher energy density than gas. More BTUs per gallon means fewer gallons for the same number of BTUs.

The second is that diesels run a higher compression ratio. The higher the compression ratio (to a point) the more efficient an engine is. High compression gas engines are in the 10:1 range. Diesels are 17:0 - 21:1.

The third reason is what I'm talking about here. It takes energy to pull air past a closed throttle plate. Gas engines don't have this loss at WOT, diesels never have it.

And no, we didn't do experiments to prove that, and maybe he was all wet. But overall he really seemed to know his stuff.

And to further clarify, in this discussion I'm talking about ENGINE efficiency, not VEHICLE efficiency. Vehicle efficiency is what we most often care about: how far can I get on a certain amount of fuel. Engine efficiency is how much power can I get out of a certain amount of fuel. This is one of the factors that play into vehicle efficiency, but definitely not the only one.

What we did learn, both theoretically and experimentally in those courses, was that the best engine efficiency came at WOT and at the engines torque peak (a detail I hadn't included before). That's where the engine does the best job of turning the energy in the fuel into power.

However, running a truck engine at WOT at the torque peak is not a good way to get good vehicle mileage! You will be accelerating like crazy unless you are either already going really fast, going up a steep hill, or otherwise pushing against a very large load, none of which is good for mileage. So for best vehicle efficiency you do have to sacrifice some engine efficiency. We typically do that by closing the throttle, but in the case of the Ford six on the lab dyno we saw that, at least in that engine, keeping the throttle open but decreasing power output by dropping the engine speed gave better vehicle efficiency.

We did go through the "thought experiment" at that time to ask if that vehicle would be reasonable to drive, and came to the conclusion that probably no one would want to drive the car if it actually had that tall gearing.

So for best vehicle efficiency you do have to sacrifice some engine efficiency. We typically do that by closing the throttle, but in the case of the Ford six on the lab dyno we saw that, at least in that engine, keeping the throttle open but decreasing power output by dropping the engine speed gave better vehicle efficiency.

We did go through the "thought experiment" at that time to ask if that vehicle would be reasonable to drive, and came to the conclusion that probably no one would want to drive the car if it actually had that tall gearing.

My son's 1984 F150: 4.9L 4 speed manual O.D. with 2.47 rear gears did return 26+ MPG on the highway [55-60 mph], but was a dog and not fun to drive. It idled @ ~8 mph and was very sluggish. "At 65 mph in O.D., if there was the slightest hill in the county it required shifting to 3rd." [edited per suggestion from Gary ]

The truck received 3.55 rear gears and the speedometer was calibrated to that change. With this change, the truck was much more enjoyable to drive and the highway gas mileage dropped to 22-23 MPG.

Going from 2.47 to 3.55 was a 43.7% change.

 

[1986F150Six]

Factors in mpg:

Torque @ rpm

Vehicle weight

Vehicle speed

Wind direction

Wind speed

Humidity

Air temperature

Elevation

Tire pressure

Tune/timing

Condition of engine/trans

Wind resistance/ drag coefficient

Vehicle height

Tire circumference

Tire tread pattern

Suspension alignment

Condition of bearings

Proper release on brake shoes and calipers

Driver habits

Ac and accessories being engine driven, on or off

Fuel grade/mix

Engine modifications

Engine air/fuel ratio and its devices that control it. (Carb vs injection)

Sometimes, while being involved with a group discussion, one might think of something which might be considered a "rabbit trail", but has the possibility of adding breadth if not depth to the discussion. If nothing else, it might be humorous.

Looking at the above list, some of these items play into the forthcoming illustration. Back in 1991 - 1994, GEO [suzuki] manufactured the Geo Metro which was sold by Chevrolet. This was a 1.0L 3 cylinder econo-box. The standard one with 5 speed manual transmission was rated @ ~46 MPG. The engineers put together a model to be the highest rated automobile offered in America, at that time. The name of this model was Metro XFi and it was rated @ 58 MPG! I drove a 1992 model for years and was able to see 57 MPG @ 55 mph. The horsepower was 48.5 vs. 55 for the standard engine.

There were several changes made to greatly enhance the fuel efficiency:

 

The camshaft was specific to the XFi engine [better torque?]

The final drive ratio was 3.79 vs. 4.11

The ECU was specific to this model

The pistons had 2 rings vs. the normal 3 [1 less compression ring; reduced internal friction]

The XFi had only the driver's side exterior mirror [decreased wind drag]

The interior was very spartan with little insulation [decreased weight]

Food for thought.

 

 

 

 

[Gary Lewis]

Factors in mpg:

Torque @ rpm

Vehicle weight

Vehicle speed

Wind direction

Wind speed

Humidity

Air temperature

Elevation

Tire pressure

Tune/timing

Condition of engine/trans

Wind resistance/ drag coefficient

Vehicle height

Tire circumference

Tire tread pattern

Suspension alignment

Condition of bearings

Proper release on brake shoes and calipers

Driver habits

Ac and accessories being engine driven, on or off

Fuel grade/mix

Engine modifications

Engine air/fuel ratio and its devices that control it. (Carb vs injection)

Sometimes, while being involved with a group discussion, one might think of something which might be considered a "rabbit trail", but has the possibility of adding breadth if not depth to the discussion. If nothing else, it might be humorous.

Looking at the above list, some of these items play into the forthcoming illustration. Back in 1991 - 1994, GEO [suzuki] manufactured the Geo Metro which was sold by Chevrolet. This was a 1.0L 3 cylinder econo-box. The standard one with 5 speed manual transmission was rated @ ~46 MPG. The engineers put together a model to be the highest rated automobile offered in America, at that time. The name of this model was Metro XFi and it was rated @ 58 MPG! I drove a 1992 model for years and was able to see 57 MPG @ 55 mph. The horsepower was 48.5 vs. 55 for the standard engine.

There were several changes made to greatly enhance the fuel efficiency:

 

The camshaft was specific to the XFi engine [better torque?]

The final drive ratio was 3.79 vs. 4.11

The ECU was specific to this model

The pistons had 2 rings vs. the normal 3 [1 less compression ring; reduced internal friction]

The XFi had only the driver's side exterior mirror [decreased wind drag]

The interior was very spartan with little insulation [decreased weight]

Food for thought.

 

 

 

David - Would it be fair to revise your statement to be "At 65 mph in O.D., if there was the slightest hill in the county it required shifting to 3rd"? That's the way I've heard it stated.

As for the Geo, that's incredible MPG. But, at quite a cost of creature comforts and, to some degree, safety. (I remember the day I got my Super Bee. I was going to change lanes and there was nothing "in the passenger's mirror", so started moving over. But, there was something there. There just wasn't a passenger's mirror!)

 

[Ray Cecil]

David - Would it be fair to revise your statement to be "At 65 mph in O.D., if there was the slightest hill in the county it required shifting to 3rd"? That's the way I've heard it stated.

As for the Geo, that's incredible MPG. But, at quite a cost of creature comforts and, to some degree, safety. (I remember the day I got my Super Bee. I was going to change lanes and there was nothing "in the passenger's mirror", so started moving over. But, there was something there. There just wasn't a passenger's mirror!)

My philosophy about vehicle fuel consumption: If I paid cash for the vehicle, and I love driving it, I dont care what fuel mileage it gets. Its way easier to earn a few more dollars to put into the tank, than it is to try to squeeze every last 1/10th of a mile from it. Id rather drive it like I stole it, ride it hard and have a good ole time. Im not old yet. Probably never will be.

[grumpin]

My philosophy about vehicle fuel consumption: If I paid cash for the vehicle, and I love driving it, I dont care what fuel mileage it gets. Its way easier to earn a few more dollars to put into the tank, than it is to try to squeeze every last 1/10th of a mile from it. Id rather drive it like I stole it, ride it hard and have a good ole time. Im not old yet. Probably never will be.

Some put their money in monthly payments and insurance, mine goes in the gas tank!

[Steve83]

The higher the compression ratio (to a point) the more efficient an engine is.

I've never heard that one, or done any calculation that would suggest it. But basic entropy graphs show that about TEMPERATURE - the higher the engine's peak combustion temperature, the more-efficient it is (thermodynamically).

Your quote implies that the cycling (rotating mass of the engine components) is the greatest loss, and that an engine with no moving parts (like a ramjet) must necessarily be the most-efficient. A ramjet is certainly thermodynamically-efficient, but it's not fuel-efficient (MPG), which is what we're really talking about.

And all things being equal, the most-efficient mechanical engine is a Stirling, which has very low compression ratio.

It takes energy to pull air past a closed throttle plate.

I disagree strongly with that...

Fluids can't be "pulled" - only pushed. And the engine doesn't push the air outside - the earth's gravity does that. The engine has to push the air in the crankcase out of the way for the piston to go down. That's irrelevant of the throttle or its size. But an open throttle allows air to flow into the engine, balancing out the pressures above & below the piston, making it easier to pull the piston down.

That might seem semantic, but it's a physical fact: the engine uses NO energy to move air past a closed throttle plate. Only to push the air around inside the crankcase, to compress it into the combustion chamber (and higher CR means more loss there), and to push it out of the cylinder during the exhaust stroke.

Vehicle efficiency is what we most often care about: how far can I get on a certain amount of fuel.

That's what the MythBusters & Top Gear experiments were about (although the TG one was intentionally slanted to produce the result they wanted, for entertainment reasons).

...try to squeeze every last 1/10th of a mile from it. Id rather drive it like I stole it...

That has always been my philosophy when I'm harassed about driving such a large, heavy, vehicle getting such low MPG; I'd rather pay for that extra gas than lose the safety, durability, & utility.