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What rear axle/diff is this?


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There are many reasons to swap to an 8.8" when that 9" becomes unusable.

The main advantage to the 9" - the reason it's so popular - is that WHEN (not "if") it grenades, you can swap out the chunk relatively quickly. That's a big plus at a race, or when you go off-roading far from home or civilization.

But the 9" is MORE LIKELY to grenade than the 8.8" because the 9" is mechanically weaker, in several ways. Ford (which designed both axles) switched to the stronger axle with the better overall design beginning in '83 and finishing in '86. The highest factory rating for the 9 was ~3200 lbs; for the 8.8, it started around ~3500 & approaches 5000 lbs. Even though the aftermarket is still producing upgraded modernized 9" axles, the 8.8" was chosen for the Rally Fighter project, which was a ~500 hp off-road vehicle.

So for a typical street vehicle, the 8.8" is the better choice. And with a little effort, it can be had with factory disk brakes. :nabble_smiley_wink:

That is Steve. the 9 inch rear end looks a pain to work on....

I think that a switch to 8.8 will happen some time between the 3G alternator and the rear main seal...

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There are many reasons to swap to an 8.8" when that 9" becomes unusable.

The main advantage to the 9" - the reason it's so popular - is that WHEN (not "if") it grenades, you can swap out the chunk relatively quickly. That's a big plus at a race, or when you go off-roading far from home or civilization.

But the 9" is MORE LIKELY to grenade than the 8.8" because the 9" is mechanically weaker, in several ways. Ford (which designed both axles) switched to the stronger axle with the better overall design beginning in '83 and finishing in '86. The highest factory rating for the 9 was ~3200 lbs; for the 8.8, it started around ~3500 & approaches 5000 lbs. Even though the aftermarket is still producing upgraded modernized 9" axles, the 8.8" was chosen for the Rally Fighter project, which was a ~500 hp off-road vehicle.

So for a typical street vehicle, the 8.8" is the better choice. And with a little effort, it can be had with factory disk brakes. :nabble_smiley_wink:

If the Ford 9" is so weak as far as "grenading" why does every NASCAR team use one? A NASCAR "stock" car chassis is a real interesting collection of the best for their usage designs, front suspension is derived from the 1957-64 Ford, rear suspension is derived from the 60s Chevrolet pickup truck coil spring system with the long trailing arms and track bar. Rear axles are a full floating Ford 9" using (by now) an aftermarket nodular iron or even steel "pumpkin".

Many drag racers use the Ford 9" center section as the straddle mount pinion design is very strong. Yes, wheel bearings and seals can be a PITA to do, I usually cut the old bearing down with my angle grinder along with the bearing retainer to get a bad bearing off. I never in all my years of having Ford cars and trucks had to replace an actual axle in a Ford 8" or 9" or even the late big car 9 3/8". The 8.8" style, great design, no inner wheel bearing race, just let the rollers ride on the axle surface, fairly easy to replace, and probably will need an axle at the same time.

I personally hate the "no inner race" style axles whoever made them, I have seen to damn many with the "inner race" area so bad that only a new or nearly virgin used axle is needed.

"Your mileage may vary :nabble_smiley_happy:"

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...why does every NASCAR team use one?
I already answered that:
...you can swap out the chunk relatively quickly. That's a big plus at a race...

Every mechanism wears eventually - the 8.8" is no different.

https://supermotors.net/getfile/74191/thumbnail/axlewear.jpg

But it's a better design overall, and substantially stronger than the 9.

I don't know enough to compare a stock 9" to a stock 8.8". I know there're both pretty good half-ton axles, but I'm not going to say which is better.

But if you're looking to build a stronger axle I've got to believe that you can go farther with a 9" simply because so many racers use it. There are aftermarket center sections, gears, even housings that are way stronger than stock 9" parts and likely even a lot better than most 1 ton axles. But you're nowhere near stock axles at that point. So while it can answer why NASCAR and drag racers use them, it doesn't mean that "you" necessarily should (whoever "you" are), because the 9" axle "you" have will probably cost $10,000 or so less than the ones being used in racing.

And again, not that the stock 9" is bad at all. But a stock 9" isn't what racers are using.

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I don't know enough to compare a stock 9" to a stock 8.8". I know there're both pretty good half-ton axles, but I'm not going to say which is better.

But if you're looking to build a stronger axle I've got to believe that you can go farther with a 9" simply because so many racers use it. There are aftermarket center sections, gears, even housings that are way stronger than stock 9" parts and likely even a lot better than most 1 ton axles. But you're nowhere near stock axles at that point. So while it can answer why NASCAR and drag racers use them, it doesn't mean that "you" necessarily should (whoever "you" are), because the 9" axle "you" have will probably cost $10,000 or so less than the ones being used in racing.

And again, not that the stock 9" is bad at all. But a stock 9" isn't what racers are using.

Thanks for all the input.

No racing here, just want a reliable set up that I can use day to day and not have oil stains everywhere.

My biggest concern is I do not have the right equipment to service the 9 inch. I may end up pulling it a part and seeing if a local shop will replace the bearings/seals on the axels for me. I can do the pinion and gasket. But this goes from a $50 job to a $200-$300+ job real quick.

I know I have big money to spend on this truck in the not to distant future, I just did not think it would be here. The engine rear main needs replacing and there is a leak on the transmission somewhere.. Both out of my scope, and this axel is looking the same way.. Need to think more..

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Thanks for all the input.

No racing here, just want a reliable set up that I can use day to day and not have oil stains everywhere.

My biggest concern is I do not have the right equipment to service the 9 inch. I may end up pulling it a part and seeing if a local shop will replace the bearings/seals on the axels for me. I can do the pinion and gasket. But this goes from a $50 job to a $200-$300+ job real quick.

I know I have big money to spend on this truck in the not to distant future, I just did not think it would be here. The engine rear main needs replacing and there is a leak on the transmission somewhere.. Both out of my scope, and this axel is looking the same way.. Need to think more..

Hmmm. looks like I have both axles. 9" in the 82, and 8.8" in the 87 Bronco. I like PARTS...

I'm going to take after Gary and have an entire floor in a building dedicated to storing PARTS!!!

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Hmmm. looks like I have both axles. 9" in the 82, and 8.8" in the 87 Bronco. I like PARTS...

I'm going to take after Gary and have an entire floor in a building dedicated to storing PARTS!!!

Steve, what do you mean switch to factory disc brakes? Were any bulls manufactured with disc brakes? Or dyou mean swapp9ng them from somewhere else?

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Thanks for all the input.

No racing here, just want a reliable set up that I can use day to day and not have oil stains everywhere.

My biggest concern is I do not have the right equipment to service the 9 inch. I may end up pulling it a part and seeing if a local shop will replace the bearings/seals on the axels for me. I can do the pinion and gasket. But this goes from a $50 job to a $200-$300+ job real quick.

I know I have big money to spend on this truck in the not to distant future, I just did not think it would be here. The engine rear main needs replacing and there is a leak on the transmission somewhere.. Both out of my scope, and this axel is looking the same way.. Need to think more..

The old school way of replacing those bearings is to cut them off, cutoff wheel or carefully with a torch. Then to put the new bearing on find a long piece of pipe to fit the diameter of the bearing that is longer than the axle and use a big hammer to install. Have done this many of times. Or some parts stores will press the bearings on for a small fee.

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