Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

Thanks, Scott. And, it would also have the "engine disabler" we've discussed.

What about the idea of using the Clock circuit?

Glad you pointed the clock circuit post out. I'd missed that one on my phone and just saw the 'pull it from elsewhere'.

Hmm...

First, LG/Y out of fuse 8 but I follow you

This would separate out the locks from the module but it would still have other loads combined with the security module after a fuse. That's what I would avoid. Again, I don't really have a great reason for it but I'd keep it on its own fuse.

I am not really concerned with having the locks, lights, and module on the same parent circuit as I don't see much of a risk difference in putting the module on fuse 8 vs fuse 7. Both run the risk of something else shorting and disabling the module.

So it really comes down to whether or not you want the security module to get its own fuse. If not, then the clock circuit would work fine but then again so would combining all 4 into one (aside from 15A vs 10A).

Wish there was a better argument one way or the other on it.

Edit: there is always the option of feeding it directly by using Fuse 10 or 13. Little more involved though.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you pointed the clock circuit post out. I'd missed that one on my phone and just saw the 'pull it from elsewhere'.

Hmm...

First, LG/Y out of fuse 8 but I follow you

This would separate out the locks from the module but it would still have other loads combined with the security module after a fuse. That's what I would avoid. Again, I don't really have a great reason for it but I'd keep it on its own fuse.

I am not really concerned with having the locks, lights, and module on the same parent circuit as I don't see much of a risk difference in putting the module on fuse 8 vs fuse 7. Both run the risk of something else shorting and disabling the module.

So it really comes down to whether or not you want the security module to get its own fuse. If not, then the clock circuit would work fine but then again so would combining all 4 into one (aside from 15A vs 10A).

Wish there was a better argument one way or the other on it.

Edit: there is always the option of feeding it directly by using Fuse 10 or 13. Little more involved though.

I missing something on the "LG/Y out of fuse 8". I'm talking about Fuse 6. Did I mistype?

On whether I want the security module on its same fuse, I do. But haven't figured out how to do that and not make it a slave to another fuse. And I don't want to lose the security module if the locks or lights blow the fuse.

So I'd rather have it on a circuit with non-related items, and fused to 10 amps, than on a circuit with the heavy hitters that might short - and fused at 15 amps.

So, what am I missing?

[kramttocs]

I missing something on the "LG/Y out of fuse 8". I'm talking about Fuse 6. Did I mistype?

On whether I want the security module on its same fuse, I do. But haven't figured out how to do that and not make it a slave to another fuse. And I don't want to lose the security module if the locks or lights blow the fuse.

So I'd rather have it on a circuit with non-related items, and fused to 10 amps, than on a circuit with the heavy hitters that might short - and fused at 15 amps.

So, what am I missing?

Yeah, just a mistype. Fuse 6 is Hot in Accy or Run. You want 8 for Hot At All Times.

Let me rephrase to ensure we are all aiming for the same goal: Whether it comes from another fused circuit or not, do you want the module power to have a dedicated fuse?

fuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => 10A fuse => security module

OR

fuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => security module

To me that's what needs identified first.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, just a mistype. Fuse 6 is Hot in Accy or Run. You want 8 for Hot At All Times.Let me rephrase to ensure we are all aiming for the same goal: Whether it comes from another fused circuit or not, do you want the module power to have a dedicated fuse? fuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => 10A fuse => security moduleORfuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => security moduleTo me that's what needs identified first.

No, it wasn't a mis-type. I was WRONG!

 

So, fuse 8 it is. Thanks for correcting me!

 

And I want "fuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio lights, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => security module". I do not want a fuse buried in the dash. And since both the OX and the security module are to be fused at 10A, and the other stuff is trivial, it seems like #8 would do it.

 

Yes?

[Gary Lewis]

No, it wasn't a mis-type. I was WRONG!

 

So, fuse 8 it is. Thanks for correcting me!

 

And I want "fuse =>[lights, locks, dome, radio lights, ox, whatever - doesn't matter right now] => security module". I do not want a fuse buried in the dash. And since both the OX and the security module are to be fused at 10A, and the other stuff is trivial, it seems like #8 would do it.

 

Yes?

Ok, a bit to report. First, I got the Elements fire extinguisher installed:Next, I got the door lock motor installed in the passenger's door, the wires run up past the kick panel to the area above the glove box, and the moisture barrier/map pocket/door panel/kick panel/threshold reinstalled. So I'm ready to start wiring.And, speaking of wiring, I've done some thinking and checking regarding fusing for the security module itself. And here are what seem to be the best two options:Easy: Just put a 10A fuse in #8 that currently powers the courtesy lights, dome light, cargo light, OX locker, and the aux power, fog light, backup light, and compressor relay coils, and tie into that. It is right there already, so would be easy to tap into.Difficult: This requires more work but gives a dedicated circuit to the security system. In the illustration on the left there's a red line that represents the always-hot buss that powers fuses 4, 8 , 12, & 16. And there's a blue line that represents the buss that powers 7 when 12 hasn't blown.In the illustration on the right I'm showing the blue line between 7 & 12 cut and a green jumper from 8 to 7, thereby making 7 always hot. And that is possible by delicately prying the clips up that hold the busses in place and removing them. Then cutting the 7 - 12 buss in two and reinstalling the part for 12 and then reinstalling the tap for 12. But on the piece for 7 I'll crimp a wire into it - and they are set up for that. Similarly, I'd pull the buss for 4, 8 , 12, & 12 and then crimp the wire from 7 into the jaws of 8. Reinstall that buss and the hot side of 7, and add a wire and connector for the outgoing side of 7 shown as purple.As said, that is more difficult. But I worked with a spare fuse box today and figured out how to get those things out. So, while it would be more difficult it is doable, and it would provide a dedicated circuit for the security system. I'm thinking about it, but would welcome your thoughts.

[kramttocs]

Ok, a bit to report. First, I got the Elements fire extinguisher installed:

Next, I got the door lock motor installed in the passenger's door, the wires run up past the kick panel to the area above the glove box, and the moisture barrier/map pocket/door panel/kick panel/threshold reinstalled. So I'm ready to start wiring.

And, speaking of wiring, I've done some thinking and checking regarding fusing for the security module itself. And here are what seem to be the best two options:

Easy: Just put a 10A fuse in #8 that currently powers the courtesy lights, dome light, cargo light, OX locker, and the aux power, fog light, backup light, and compressor relay coils, and tie into that. It is right there already, so would be easy to tap into.

Difficult: This requires more work but gives a dedicated circuit to the security system. In the illustration on the left there's a red line that represents the always-hot buss that powers fuses 4, 8 , 12, & 16. And there's a blue line that represents the buss that powers 7 when 12 hasn't blown.

In the illustration on the right I'm showing the blue line between 7 & 12 cut and a green jumper from 8 to 7, thereby making 7 always hot. And that is possible by delicately prying the clips up that hold the busses in place and removing them. Then cutting the 7 - 12 buss in two and reinstalling the part for 12 and then reinstalling the tap for 12. But on the piece for 7 I'll crimp a wire into it - and they are set up for that. Similarly, I'd pull the buss for 4, 8 , 12, & 12 and then crimp the wire from 7 into the jaws of 8. Reinstall that buss and the hot side of 7, and add a wire and connector for the outgoing side of 7 shown as purple.

As said, that is more difficult. But I worked with a spare fuse box today and figured out how to get those things out. So, while it would be more difficult it is doable, and it would provide a dedicated circuit for the security system. I'm thinking about it, but would welcome your thoughts.

on giving it a dedicated fuse.

How about leaving 7 alone and using 13? This is what I did for my gvod module but just used a different source buss.

[Gary Lewis]

on giving it a dedicated fuse.

How about leaving 7 alone and using 13? This is what I did for my gvod module but just used a different source buss.

Say more about using "a different source buss"? Does it have any connections in it? Tell me how, please.

[kramttocs]

Say more about using "a different source buss"? Does it have any connections in it? Tell me how, please.

Sorry, I mean that while you are needing a Hot At All Tines I only needed a Hot In Run. So I created a jumper from a HIR buss to 13 then went from the other leg of 13 to the gvod. So the same thing as you can do, just different source buss. I don't see a need to split 7 from 12 so I'd just use 13 (or 10) since it is empty on both legs. Same end goal but a little less work. Since you have the spare fuse box you would just pull two single terminals from it to use.

I have some screenshots in the Resources >factory wiring locations of this and think it'd be great to add yours once you finalize it.

I like this approach and today I've actually been doing the same work to make use of 10 for another purpose.

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry, I mean that while you are needing a Hot At All Tines I only needed a Hot In Run. So I created a jumper from a HIR buss to 13 then went from the other leg of 13 to the gvod. So the same thing as you can do, just different source buss. I don't see a need to split 7 from 12 so I'd just use 13 (or 10) since it is empty on both legs. Same end goal but a little less work. Since you have the spare fuse box you would just pull two single terminals from it to use.

I have some screenshots in the Resources >factory wiring locations of this and think it'd be great to add yours once you finalize it.

I like this approach and today I've actually been doing the same work to make use of 10 for another purpose.

Ahhhh! I see what you mean. Yes, I like 10 or 13 better. I can pull contacts out of the other fuse box and make a jumper to the always-hot buss for 4/8/12/16. Would be one less step w/o having to cut 7 away from 12.

Luckily I've not fished the wires from 12 and 14 up through the dash and over to the security system, so if I add that wire I can fish them all up and over at the same time. 14 is going to the USB charger in the ash tray, 12 will be for the locks & lights relays, and 13 (since the bottom of the fuse box is easier to get to) will be for the security system itself.

But I'm running out of time. My insurance man is supposed to come by Monday afternoon to take pictures to send to American Modern, although with the weather forecast that may have to be Tuesday. I was hoping to have the security system functional enough that I could show him that it is at least somewhat functional, like maybe locking the doors. However, I'm not sure I'll be ready, and I don't want to hurry it just for that.

Still, he will be able to see the wiring under the dash cover as I'll either pull the dash cover to show him or put it on when he gets here. And with 12 + 10 + 2 + 2 = 26 wires emanating from the security system he will quickly see it is a comprehensive system.

AMIG says they give a 5% discount for an alarm and another 5% for an "active disabling device" and I think this one will qualify.

[Gary Lewis]

Ahhhh! I see what you mean. Yes, I like 10 or 13 better. I can pull contacts out of the other fuse box and make a jumper to the always-hot buss for 4/8/12/16. Would be one less step w/o having to cut 7 away from 12.

Luckily I've not fished the wires from 12 and 14 up through the dash and over to the security system, so if I add that wire I can fish them all up and over at the same time. 14 is going to the USB charger in the ash tray, 12 will be for the locks & lights relays, and 13 (since the bottom of the fuse box is easier to get to) will be for the security system itself.

But I'm running out of time. My insurance man is supposed to come by Monday afternoon to take pictures to send to American Modern, although with the weather forecast that may have to be Tuesday. I was hoping to have the security system functional enough that I could show him that it is at least somewhat functional, like maybe locking the doors. However, I'm not sure I'll be ready, and I don't want to hurry it just for that.

Still, he will be able to see the wiring under the dash cover as I'll either pull the dash cover to show him or put it on when he gets here. And with 12 + 10 + 2 + 2 = 26 wires emanating from the security system he will quickly see it is a comprehensive system.

AMIG says they give a 5% discount for an alarm and another 5% for an "active disabling device" and I think this one will qualify.

I'm working on how to document my fuse box changes, and my plan is to laminate these and put them in the fuse box - once I get them correct, sized right, etc. The fuse box layout is the one from the EVTM with the stuff about the connectors removed, and the fuse size and circuits protected one is a spreadsheet I created to mimic the factory table. I'll be changing that to have all of my info in it.

I'll be happy to put these out where others can use them if that would be helpful.