Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Good thing you're working all these bugs out now. 👍

I didn't realize how close the rear brake hose would come to a dual pipe exhaust.

I hope that flare tightened up nicely.

I recall what a pain it was when I replaced my lines with cupro-nickel.

And of course my retainer clip flew off into the dirt of the paddock, so I have it locked in with safety wire.

(But I did a good job with .040" and the sharp ends are turned in)

Yes, these day-trips are perfect for working out the bugs. And there are plenty of them given the number of changes I've made. While today did feel like a setback as I slogged through it, we are getting down to the little things.

I won't know for a while if the brake line is still leaking, but tomorrow I will press on the brakes several times to see if I can make it leak. I sure hope that tightening it did the trick and I don't have to install a new line.

Then I hope to move the OX actuator, clamp the actuator cable, make another 1" bump stop spacer for the passenger's side, and then install both of them.

Maybe by summer and the hoped-for trip to Ouray I'll have this thing sorted and ready to go.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, these day-trips are perfect for working out the bugs. And there are plenty of them given the number of changes I've made. While today did feel like a setback as I slogged through it, we are getting down to the little things.I won't know for a while if the brake line is still leaking, but tomorrow I will press on the brakes several times to see if I can make it leak. I sure hope that tightening it did the trick and I don't have to install a new line.Then I hope to move the OX actuator, clamp the actuator cable, make another 1" bump stop spacer for the passenger's side, and then install both of them.Maybe by summer and the hoped-for trip to Ouray I'll have this thing sorted and ready to go.

Morning update. Talked with Janey about security systems and she encouraged me to get one on order. Plus, she said she thinks we need a tonneau cover like the one on Blue before our trip so we can put our suitcases in the bed w/o worrying about them.

 

A bit of looking found that the Retrax I have on Blue fits down in the bed and has lips/tracks that sit on the top of the bed sides. So I should be able to put one right behind the tool box, and it is 76 1/2" from there to the tailgate, so one for a 6 3/4' bed would work fine.

 

But, speaking of the tailgate, I'll have to install the Power Tailgate Lock I bought years ago and it'll be triggered with the door locks. (But looking at it now I'm not quite sure how it is supposed to work and the instructions are less than informative.)

 

Meanwhile, back at the ranch/discussion about security systems, she convinced me to call Crutchfield. I'd been looking at the Code Alarm CA1155e Elite and the CA1055 but couldn't figure out the differences. However, Colby, my advisor at Crutchfield, said the difference is that the 1155 has a built-in shock/tilt sensor and the 1055's is an add-on. So I decided on the 1155 and they had one so I ordered it.

 

Now to see what I can get done today....

[kramttocs]

Morning update. Talked with Janey about security systems and she encouraged me to get one on order. Plus, she said she thinks we need a tonneau cover like the one on Blue before our trip so we can put our suitcases in the bed w/o worrying about them.

 

A bit of looking found that the Retrax I have on Blue fits down in the bed and has lips/tracks that sit on the top of the bed sides. So I should be able to put one right behind the tool box, and it is 76 1/2" from there to the tailgate, so one for a 6 3/4' bed would work fine.

 

But, speaking of the tailgate, I'll have to install the Power Tailgate Lock I bought years ago and it'll be triggered with the door locks. (But looking at it now I'm not quite sure how it is supposed to work and the instructions are less than informative.)

 

Meanwhile, back at the ranch/discussion about security systems, she convinced me to call Crutchfield. I'd been looking at the Code Alarm CA1155e Elite and the CA1055 but couldn't figure out the differences. However, Colby, my advisor at Crutchfield, said the difference is that the 1155 has a built-in shock/tilt sensor and the 1055's is an add-on. So I decided on the 1155 and they had one so I ordered it.

 

Now to see what I can get done today....

I read through the manual last night for that unit. It looks like a really good choice. The whole integrated shock/title sensor was nice to see and worth the upgrade. Plus, while it wouldn't get used a lot and requires another module, the ability to connect it to a pc for configuration is a real bonus in my eyes.

[Gary Lewis]

I read through the manual last night for that unit. It looks like a really good choice. The whole integrated shock/title sensor was nice to see and worth the upgrade. Plus, while it wouldn't get used a lot and requires another module, the ability to connect it to a pc for configuration is a real bonus in my eyes.

Hadn't thought about the programming via a PC. What module does it take and how 'spensive is that? The manual programming is via lots of button pushes.

Anyway, glad you like it. I think it is going to work very nicely.

[kramttocs]

Hadn't thought about the programming via a PC. What module does it take and how 'spensive is that? The manual programming is via lots of button pushes.

Anyway, glad you like it. I think it is going to work very nicely.

That's a good question. I think it's this: https://audiojamonline.com/audiovox-veprog-prestige-web-based-program-prestige-pursuit

 

[Gary Lewis]

That's a good question. I think it's this: https://audiojamonline.com/audiovox-veprog-prestige-web-based-program-prestige-pursuit

Thanks, Scott. But for $33 + shipping I'll try the manual method. I did confirm with Colby that the unit will keep its programming if power is removed. And, according to him, the LED will flash at the same time the siren or horn chirps in the programming mode, so maybe I could just silence them to do the setup.

As for what I did today, I made this. What do y'all think it is?

Does this help?

And, here's another view. That's .028" stainless serving as a heat shield for the actuator. That's 'cause the actuator is now only 3" from the headers, but this should prevent a meltdown.

[grumpin]

Thanks, Scott. But for $33 + shipping I'll try the manual method. I did confirm with Colby that the unit will keep its programming if power is removed. And, according to him, the LED will flash at the same time the siren or horn chirps in the programming mode, so maybe I could just silence them to do the setup.

As for what I did today, I made this. What do y'all think it is?

Does this help?

And, here's another view. That's .028" stainless serving as a heat shield for the actuator. That's 'cause the actuator is now only 3" from the headers, but this should prevent a meltdown.

Very nice! But I was going to guess cup holder!

[Gary Lewis]

Very nice! But I was going to guess cup holder!

Well, I hadn't thought of that, but it does kind of look like a cup holder. Anyway, thanks! I just couldn't stand to put the thing in that close to the headers w/o some protection.

[kramttocs]

Thanks, Scott. But for $33 + shipping I'll try the manual method. I did confirm with Colby that the unit will keep its programming if power is removed. And, according to him, the LED will flash at the same time the siren or horn chirps in the programming mode, so maybe I could just silence them to do the setup.

As for what I did today, I made this. What do y'all think it is?

Does this help?

And, here's another view. That's .028" stainless serving as a heat shield for the actuator. That's 'cause the actuator is now only 3" from the headers, but this should prevent a meltdown.

Looks like something people would pay money for

And no doubt effective to boot.

[Gary Lewis]

Looks like something people would pay money for

And no doubt effective to boot.

It was an interesting project. I jumped into it with little thought, which was pretty obvious part way through. The heat shield is captured between the bracket for the actuator and the aluminum channel that serves as the spacer to get the actuator away from the side of the frame. But as I was getting done I realized that there's no way to get a screwdriver on the Phillips headed screws. And I didn't have the right hex headed screws.

So I got a short #2 Phillips bit, a 1/4" socket, and my 1/4" drive ratchet and reached inside the hoop to tighten them down. And somehow I got that done w/o cutting myself on the edges of the hoop. I'd spent quite a while on them w/a file, but they are still not something you'd want to play with.