Big Blue's Transformation

[kramttocs]

Hadn't thought of using the cooler fittings. But there's really not much room there either.

As for boxing in the reservoir, I don't think that will be necessary as the reservoir itself is stiff and the arrangement won't allow much movement side/side. However, you have a good point about the fore/aft as even the PDB can rock that way because of the plastic of the fender liner flexing.

But I don't think I want something across the top as that would prevent opening the PDB. So what about having an arm from the bottom plate/strap that goes forward and ties into the base of the PDB? Or maybe even up to the battery tray?

I'll look at it a bit more, but I think I can make it rigid enough via bracing on the bottom such that straps on the top won't be needed.

Thanks!

I agree that the boxing isn't really needed - that was just a way to get a solid mounting point for the strap to go forward to the battery holddown.

Definitely don't want something that would interfere with the pdb lid though.

I can't picture the others very well but looking forward to seeing what you come up with. If the concern can be eliminated with just changing up the bottom plate a bit that'd be great.

[Gary Lewis]

I agree that the boxing isn't really needed - that was just a way to get a solid mounting point for the strap to go forward to the battery holddown.

Definitely don't want something that would interfere with the pdb lid though.

I can't picture the others very well but looking forward to seeing what you come up with. If the concern can be eliminated with just changing up the bottom plate a bit that'd be great.

Ok, I think I have it.

In this pic you can see that the PDB and the reservoir will be sitting at one level of the fender liner and the battery tray at another. So it wouldn't be easy to tie the reservoir mount to the battery tray.

However, what you can't tell from the above angle is what is shown in this shot from the rear - that the inboard mounting bolt of the PDB is easily accessible from the rear. So it would be easy to put an arm from the reservoir's mount to that bolt, which would stabilize both the PDB and the reservoir.

Basically what I'll do is put a piece of angle between the uprights at the bottom, which will ensure they can't flex. And then I'll weld another piece of angle to that one that will run forward and be anchored by the bolt you see. As said, that will stabilize both pieces but won't be in the way. In fact, it will be hard to even see.

[kramttocs]

Ok, I think I have it.

In this pic you can see that the PDB and the reservoir will be sitting at one level of the fender liner and the battery tray at another. So it wouldn't be easy to tie the reservoir mount to the battery tray.

However, what you can't tell from the above angle is what is shown in this shot from the rear - that the inboard mounting bolt of the PDB is easily accessible from the rear. So it would be easy to put an arm from the reservoir's mount to that bolt, which would stabilize both the PDB and the reservoir.

Basically what I'll do is put a piece of angle between the uprights at the bottom, which will ensure they can't flex. And then I'll weld another piece of angle to that one that will run forward and be anchored by the bolt you see. As said, that will stabilize both pieces but won't be in the way. In fact, it will be hard to even see.

Oh! I didn't realize the pdb stood so high. Looking back over the non-top down photos I can see it now.

I think an extra leg out to the bolt would solve a lot, if not all, of the potential for flex.

[Gary Lewis]

Oh! I didn't realize the pdb stood so high. Looking back over the non-top down photos I can see it now.

I think an extra leg out to the bolt would solve a lot, if not all, of the potential for flex.

Let's try this, although it is not to scale. All of the bracket pieces are 1" angle, with the heavy line representing the edge facing up.

The two black pieces top and bottom run fore/aft and will be bolted through the fender liner in a couple of spots each. They are welded to the red uprights, to which the yellow ears of the reservoir bolt. The greenish piece ties the top/inboard and bottom/outboard legs together as well as provides a place to weld the black piece going off to the right/front, where it will be secured with the existing bolt for the PDB.

[kramttocs]

Let's try this, although it is not to scale. All of the bracket pieces are 1" angle, with the heavy line representing the edge facing up.

The two black pieces top and bottom run fore/aft and will be bolted through the fender liner in a couple of spots each. They are welded to the red uprights, to which the yellow ears of the reservoir bolt. The greenish piece ties the top/inboard and bottom/outboard legs together as well as provides a place to weld the black piece going off to the right/front, where it will be secured with the existing bolt for the PDB.

I like that design. The two black pieces with the two anchor points may actually be enough but the simple process of adding the one to the pdb clinches it.

[Gary Lewis]

I like that design. The two black pieces with the two anchor points may actually be enough but the simple process of adding the one to the pdb clinches it.

Nothing to show yet 'cause I'm in watching "the game". But I did get the "goal post" made, meaning the uprights and the crossbar. Need to clean up the welds just a bit, but it is solid as I welded the uprights to the crossbar in 3 places.

The reservoir nestles in perfectly and the holes in the ears, such as they are, align nicely. So the next step is to figure out how long the upper and lower "arms" should be. In the pic below you can see that the liner drops away where the top arm goes, so that arm won't be very long. But the bottom arm can be longer.

I hope to lay it out so I don't have to drill more, or at least many more, hole in the liner. But we shall see.

[Gary Lewis]

Nothing to show yet 'cause I'm in watching "the game". But I did get the "goal post" made, meaning the uprights and the crossbar. Need to clean up the welds just a bit, but it is solid as I welded the uprights to the crossbar in 3 places.

The reservoir nestles in perfectly and the holes in the ears, such as they are, align nicely. So the next step is to figure out how long the upper and lower "arms" should be. In the pic below you can see that the liner drops away where the top arm goes, so that arm won't be very long. But the bottom arm can be longer.

I hope to lay it out so I don't have to drill more, or at least many more, hole in the liner. But we shall see.

I've been looking for "coolant recovery hose" and determined that the hose is 5/16", or 8MM, and is frequently also used for vacuum and windshield washer line. I found two of them, both saying they are good to 257 degrees F:

• Gates 27555:, but Advanced wants $6.49 for 3' of it and I need a bit over 6'.

• Continental 65106: Amazon wants $16.29 + $11.49 shipping for a 50' roll, but it won't be here for two weeks.

Then I found High Temperature Vacuum Silicone Tube 8mm ID x 14mm OD, 10ft with Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamps and it is good to 374 F. It sells for $16.99, and it'll be here tomorrow.

[Gary Lewis]

I've been looking for "coolant recovery hose" and determined that the hose is 5/16", or 8MM, and is frequently also used for vacuum and windshield washer line. I found two of them, both saying they are good to 257 degrees F:

• Gates 27555:, but Advanced wants $6.49 for 3' of it and I need a bit over 6'.

• Continental 65106: Amazon wants $16.29 + $11.49 shipping for a 50' roll, but it won't be here for two weeks.

Then I found High Temperature Vacuum Silicone Tube 8mm ID x 14mm OD, 10ft with Stainless Worm Gear Hose Clamps and it is good to 374 F. It sells for $16.99, and it'll be here tomorrow.

Boy, do I have news! GOOD news! I finally got the rear seal for the t-case and installed it today, so we were able to take the truck for a test drive. And the first thing to report is that the noise in the front end is much diminished, so the spring sliders and liner really helped.

Second, the speedometer works perfectly. I used a GPS app on my phone and the speedo shows within 1 MPH of what we were actually doing. And, it is steady. No more bouncing, just a nice steady readout.

Third, the speed control works very well! I'm still running the exact same setup as the last test, meaning the .105" jet between the control valves and the servo, the extra vacuum reservoir, and the same servo and amplifier. So I don't really know what fixed it, but I'm guessing the slipping speedometer driven gear was a big part of it. We took it out west on the same stretch of steep hills we've been testing on, and rarely felt it change the throttle as it was smooth. I will probably still try Bill's red Taurus module, and I'll try pulling the extra reservoir, so there will be more testing.

Last, the spring change made a tremendous change in the ride. Bumps that hurt don't any more. And the overall ride is much improved. It really feels like a different truck. In fact, the steering is improved as apparently the back end that was causing some bump-steer. I'm sold and will be ordering the 12" RuffStuff u-bolts in a few minutes.

And, not part of the testing but definitely part of today's work, I got the reservoir bracket welded up. Still need to drill a few holes and then blast and powder coat it, but it is gonna work. Here are a couple of shots of it.

[Gary Lewis]

Boy, do I have news! GOOD news! I finally got the rear seal for the t-case and installed it today, so we were able to take the truck for a test drive. And the first thing to report is that the noise in the front end is much diminished, so the spring sliders and liner really helped.

Second, the speedometer works perfectly. I used a GPS app on my phone and the speedo shows within 1 MPH of what we were actually doing. And, it is steady. No more bouncing, just a nice steady readout.

Third, the speed control works very well! I'm still running the exact same setup as the last test, meaning the .105" jet between the control valves and the servo, the extra vacuum reservoir, and the same servo and amplifier. So I don't really know what fixed it, but I'm guessing the slipping speedometer driven gear was a big part of it. We took it out west on the same stretch of steep hills we've been testing on, and rarely felt it change the throttle as it was smooth. I will probably still try Bill's red Taurus module, and I'll try pulling the extra reservoir, so there will be more testing.

Last, the spring change made a tremendous change in the ride. Bumps that hurt don't any more. And the overall ride is much improved. It really feels like a different truck. In fact, the steering is improved as apparently the back end that was causing some bump-steer. I'm sold and will be ordering the 12" RuffStuff u-bolts in a few minutes.

And, not part of the testing but definitely part of today's work, I got the reservoir bracket welded up. Still need to drill a few holes and then blast and powder coat it, but it is gonna work. Here are a couple of shots of it.

The u-bolts are now on order. RuffStuff has 10" and 13" lengths, but not 12". Obviously I went with the 13" length, so I may want to cut them down.

And, by the way, RuffStuff gave me a 10% discount and said to pass the word on to y'all. They'll give other first-timers a discount as well. I spoke with Liam.

[salans7]

The u-bolts are now on order. RuffStuff has 10" and 13" lengths, but not 12". Obviously I went with the 13" length, so I may want to cut them down.

And, by the way, RuffStuff gave me a 10% discount and said to pass the word on to y'all. They'll give other first-timers a discount as well. I spoke with Liam.

When I went back and looked at my order, it was 13". I don't think the 13" left much thread above the nuts, so you may not have to cut anything.

That's cool that they're offering 10% to first-timer. Shame I'm not a first-timer but a three-timer. Haha.