Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

I think that sounds like a plan!

I think that may be a good starting point. But, that just brings the springing down to the other spring option back then. If I want to go softer I could and then put air bags under it. However, this will let me see what I think.

Thanks again.

[Gary Lewis]

I think that may be a good starting point. But, that just brings the springing down to the other spring option back then. If I want to go softer I could and then put air bags under it. However, this will let me see what I think.

Thanks again.

Got the new speedo cable, VSS, and wiring in, but it was a battle. Turns out that the 92" cable is JUST long enough, and you'd better run it correctly or it won't reach. I found several ways not to run it, but I think I found one way that will work. Anyway, it is in as is the harness I made to connect the VSS to the original harness. (Another change between '85 and '86.)

And, I tried to lube the input bearing to Big Blue's speedometer. I placed it face-down on the work table and squirted some JB Chain Lube around the brass input shaft. Then I used my drill and a short piece of speedo cable to turn it first one way and then the other, several time. And then each time I walked past it again I'd pick up the drill and spin it some more.

The hope was that some of the heavy lube would get by the seal and help that bearing stabilize a bit. But I didn't want anything very thin as it might get past the bearing and into the coupling.

I hope to find out tomorrow if it helped.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the new speedo cable, VSS, and wiring in, but it was a battle. Turns out that the 92" cable is JUST long enough, and you'd better run it correctly or it won't reach. I found several ways not to run it, but I think I found one way that will work. Anyway, it is in as is the harness I made to connect the VSS to the original harness. (Another change between '85 and '86.)

And, I tried to lube the input bearing to Big Blue's speedometer. I placed it face-down on the work table and squirted some JB Chain Lube around the brass input shaft. Then I used my drill and a short piece of speedo cable to turn it first one way and then the other, several time. And then each time I walked past it again I'd pick up the drill and spin it some more.

The hope was that some of the heavy lube would get by the seal and help that bearing stabilize a bit. But I didn't want anything very thin as it might get past the bearing and into the coupling.

I hope to find out tomorrow if it helped.

Time for an update. Some good and some not so good.

On the not-so, the speedometer was wavering from the get-go. And while the speed control initially seemed better with the t-case-mounted VSS, it then started oscillating far worse that ever before.

So I'm wondering if in spite of what the advertisement said, the new speedo cable wasn't truly lubed. As I installed it I pulled it out part way and it was dry but appeared to be impregnated with graphite lube. We've now driven ~45 miles and it went from just bouncing on the speedo but steady on the speed control to bouncing on both the speedo awa the speed control.

My fear is that if it is causing the VSS that is driving it to waver that it may strip the driven or, worse yet, the drive gear. So I'm considering pulling it apart here and using my Chap Stick to lube it to get us home. Fortunately the inner cable can come out at the bottom end so I don't have to take the dash apart.

Also, I think the speedo itself is bad. My bump of 5 MPH when connected to the lathe got me spot-on at 65 MPH, but now everything below that is off. So it looks like I'll have to replace the speedo.

As for the good, I think the black weave instrument bezel turned out good:

[Gary Lewis]

Time for an update. Some good and some not so good.

On the not-so, the speedometer was wavering from the get-go. And while the speed control initially seemed better with the t-case-mounted VSS, it then started oscillating far worse that ever before.

So I'm wondering if in spite of what the advertisement said, the new speedo cable wasn't truly lubed. As I installed it I pulled it out part way and it was dry but appeared to be impregnated with graphite lube. We've now driven ~45 miles and it went from just bouncing on the speedo but steady on the speed control to bouncing on both the speedo awa the speed control.

My fear is that if it is causing the VSS that is driving it to waver that it may strip the driven or, worse yet, the drive gear. So I'm considering pulling it apart here and using my Chap Stick to lube it to get us home. Fortunately the inner cable can come out at the bottom end so I don't have to take the dash apart.

Also, I think the speedo itself is bad. My bump of 5 MPH when connected to the lathe got me spot-on at 65 MPH, but now everything below that is off. So it looks like I'll have to replace the speedo.

As for the good, I think the black weave instrument bezel turned out good:

Well, I was wrong! The inner cable will not come out the bottom even though there's no plastic tip on the top.

I went to AutoZone and they didn't have speedo cable lube. Bought synthetic wheel bearing lube and pulled the VSS and then the cable out of the VSS. Couldn't get the inner cable out so I pushed some grease in the end of the cable and slid the cable in/out as much as I could. Perhaps it'll ride up with wear. (Anyone get the reference? )

But the inner cable turned easily and didn't seem notchy. Dunno!

And, I pulled the jet out of the vacuum line and the reservoir out of the supply. We shall see. About to head home.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I was wrong! The inner cable will not come out the bottom even though there's no plastic tip on the top.

I went to AutoZone and they didn't have speedo cable lube. Bought synthetic wheel bearing lube and pulled the VSS and then the cable out of the VSS. Couldn't get the inner cable out so I pushed some grease in the end of the cable and slid the cable in/out as much as I could. Perhaps it'll ride up with wear. (Anyone get the reference? )

But the inner cable turned easily and didn't seem notchy. Dunno!

And, I pulled the jet out of the vacuum line and the reservoir out of the supply. We shall see. About to head home.

We made it home, but I can hear the speedo cable rattling. So my lube job didn't take. When I can get back to the truck I'll have to pull the dash apart again, swap speedometers and lube the cable. But we have doctor's checkups for a few days so I'm not sure when I'll get to do that.

[85lebaront2]

We made it home, but I can hear the speedo cable rattling. So my lube job didn't take. When I can get back to the truck I'll have to pull the dash apart again, swap speedometers and lube the cable. But we have doctor's checkups for a few days so I'm not sure when I'll get to do that.

Gary, you just reminded me why I don't miss a cable driven speedometer. I used to eat cables on the Shelby. it went from the left side of the firewall to the right rear of the transmission and the driven gear housing pointed down at a 45° angle, which put the arc in the cable right into the collector on the right header. If I got it to not sit on the header it was very stiff turning and would periodically break leaving me with no speedometer. Needless to say I got very good at driving by the tach.

Even the Chrysler has one of two electronic speedometers, an analog 125 mph and a digital that should be the same.

Why don't you take the best non-NOS one and send it off to be rebuilt and calibrated? Then you will know it's right and concentrate on getting a cable thoroughly lubed and routed without too tight bends in it and getting the speed control working correctly.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, you just reminded me why I don't miss a cable driven speedometer. I used to eat cables on the Shelby. it went from the left side of the firewall to the right rear of the transmission and the driven gear housing pointed down at a 45° angle, which put the arc in the cable right into the collector on the right header. If I got it to not sit on the header it was very stiff turning and would periodically break leaving me with no speedometer. Needless to say I got very good at driving by the tach.

Even the Chrysler has one of two electronic speedometers, an analog 125 mph and a digital that should be the same.

Why don't you take the best non-NOS one and send it off to be rebuilt and calibrated? Then you will know it's right and concentrate on getting a cable thoroughly lubed and routed without too tight bends in it and getting the speed control working correctly.

Bill - I may well send one off, but I'll wait a bit and see.

Apparently there is something wrong with this speedo as it is only accurate at one point. Before my adjustment it was accurate below about 30 MPH, and now it is accurate at 65 MPH.

So I'm thinking I'll put Dad's speedo in but set the odometer to Big Blue's reading. Then, if that speedo is off it may be time to send Big Blue's off for repair. But I'll lube the cable while I have the speedo out.

As said, we have a doctor's appointment this morn, but may have time to do some of that this afternoon. We shall see.

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I may well send one off, but I'll wait a bit and see.

Apparently there is something wrong with this speedo as it is only accurate at one point. Before my adjustment it was accurate below about 30 MPH, and now it is accurate at 65 MPH.

So I'm thinking I'll put Dad's speedo in but set the odometer to Big Blue's reading. Then, if that speedo is off it may be time to send Big Blue's off for repair. But I'll lube the cable while I have the speedo out.

As said, we have a doctor's appointment this morn, but may have time to do some of that this afternoon. We shall see.

I pulled the speedo and cable out today and it appeared to be dry, and when I ran a rag down it there was very little that got on the rag.

When I went to O'Reilly's they didn't have any specific speedo lube. However, the vast majority of what I'd found online said that graphite is the way to go, and I found Blaster's spray graphite lube. But right next to it was Blaster's Dry Lube With Teflon. So, bought both.

I hung the cable up in the powder coating booth and gave it two coats of graphite, which turned it black. Then I gave it two coats of Teflon, and it was still black to my eye. But the overspray was white and the camera said the cable was white.

So I coiled it up in a bowl and sprayed it with a good dose of graphite and Teflon. And then I rolled the mix around to ensure that the cable was saturated. I believe it is now well and truly lubricated.

[Gary Lewis]

I pulled the speedo and cable out today and it appeared to be dry, and when I ran a rag down it there was very little that got on the rag.

When I went to O'Reilly's they didn't have any specific speedo lube. However, the vast majority of what I'd found online said that graphite is the way to go, and I found Blaster's spray graphite lube. But right next to it was Blaster's Dry Lube With Teflon. So, bought both.

I hung the cable up in the powder coating booth and gave it two coats of graphite, which turned it black. Then I gave it two coats of Teflon, and it was still black to my eye. But the overspray was white and the camera said the cable was white.

So I coiled it up in a bowl and sprayed it with a good dose of graphite and Teflon. And then I rolled the mix around to ensure that the cable was saturated. I believe it is now well and truly lubricated.

Did some more speedometer testing today. Surprising how many of these speedos are off, and how far. But, it looks like #2 is a winner, and it has a trip odometer, which I hadn't realized. I think I'll go with it but put Big Blue's odometers on as the #'s on that one are in pretty bad shape.

I've colored the rows to indicate my thoughts about how close they are overall. Notice that #2 is closer than the NOS one, and that #1 is pretty close as well. But #3, Dad's, & Big Blue's are waaaaay off.

[Machspeed]

Did some more speedometer testing today. Surprising how many of these speedos are off, and how far. But, it looks like #2 is a winner, and it has a trip odometer, which I hadn't realized. I think I'll go with it but put Big Blue's odometers on as the #'s on that one are in pretty bad shape.

I've colored the rows to indicate my thoughts about how close they are overall. Notice that #2 is closer than the NOS one, and that #1 is pretty close as well. But #3, Dad's, & Big Blue's are waaaaay off.

Gary, I replaced my speedometer cable a few months back and used a cable luber and the pictured lube.

The tool was purchased on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Cable+luber&qid=1609983315&sr=8-2