Gary Lewis Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 I don't know how loose the knob is??? I'd consider RTV my first choice. Maybe Shoe-Goo, or E6000? You want something tough and resilient. The splines in it are very well defined and it slips on snugly. It just comes off in your hand when you pull back to shift out of 2wd to 4wd, etc. I think I might try RTV first. I have a tube of black RTV laying on top of the tool box, having used it yesterday to seal the inner ZF5 boot to the transmission cover. That might just be enough to keep it on in use, but allow it to come off if I need to change out the boot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 The splines in it are very well defined and it slips on snugly. It just comes off in your hand when you pull back to shift out of 2wd to 4wd, etc. I think I might try RTV first. I have a tube of black RTV laying on top of the tool box, having used it yesterday to seal the inner ZF5 boot to the transmission cover. That might just be enough to keep it on in use, but allow it to come off if I need to change out the boot. I tried RTV, I didn’t have any luck with it. Maybe I didn’t use enough. Maybe the angle and the way I shifted, but it came off pretty quick. Hope it works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 I tried RTV, I didn’t have any luck with it. Maybe I didn’t use enough. Maybe the angle and the way I shifted, but it came off pretty quick. Hope it works for you. Dane - I'm glad you spoke up. I saw your response as I was looking for the tube of RTV, which wasn't where I thought it was supposed to be in this chaos of a shop. And along the way I saw the seam sealer, so based on your experience I shot some seam sealer in there, spread it around with a screwdriver, and pushed it on. Hard. Pulled it back off to look, and it appears that I got enough as all of the splines were full on both parts. So it is back on and I'll let it set up a few days before testing it. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 Edit: Shaun it also says they have matching gear shift knobs! I like the factory knobs more than aftermarket. If I could only find an adapter that fits the splines, but has a 3/8-24 threaded end up top. I'd be golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 Edit: Shaun it also says they have matching gear shift knobs! I like the factory knobs more than aftermarket. If I could only find an adapter that fits the splines, but has a 3/8-24 threaded end up top. I'd be golden. So, you have a knob that has a 3/8-24 thread? Now that adapter would be perfect. If we just knew someone with a machine shop..... Maybe together we can figure this out. Later. I'd have to figure out the spline size and count, and use a broach to create the splines in a part that I could then thread. Shouldn't be too hard. Later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 What are your opinions on the differences in the shift levers? I'm gonna end up with two different shift knobs on mine and I know it's gonna bug me. As for the shift knob, blue loctite? Don't gorille glue it like the transfer case knob on my BW1356. Although for what it's worth, it wasn't that hard to remove. Neither were the gorilla glued emblems from my fenders, although I'm now missing some paint there. https://core-shifters.com/collections/tc-knobs/products/transfer-case-shift-knob-for-1982-2016-ford-trucks-np208-bw1356-np271?variant=33072514822 I bought one of these. My original would move around and come off when you shifted. Drove me nuts! It’s held on with a set screw. The only thing I did was clean up the hole for the set screw, you could feel it when you grabbed the knob. I like it! Mmmm, I like these. They're out of the transmission(NP435) one though. I'll wait for your feedback on the RTV Gary, I need to do the same to my transmission shifter. Being that I use it more than the TC, it's quite annoying... Getting so close now, are you going to start it up before the end of this week??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 Mmmm, I like these. They're out of the transmission(NP435) one though. I'll wait for your feedback on the RTV Gary, I need to do the same to my transmission shifter. Being that I use it more than the TC, it's quite annoying... Getting so close now, are you going to start it up before the end of this week??? Rob - You may have missed it, but on Dane's implied recommendation of not using RTV, I moved on to seam sealer, which I had laying around. We will find out in a few days as I'm gonna let it set up before I try it. As for starting it up, we shall see. Today I'm swapping out the fuel delivery module in the front tank, and that's a pain! (By the way folks, the FDM holds 370 gallons of gas, and when you tilt it to get it out of the tank up under the bed all 370 gallons run down your arm. ) When that's done and dusted I'll start filling the t-case, transmission, and power steering/hydroboost systems. Then lube the ball joints, tie rods, and u-joints - all of which are new. Oh, I forgot, I have to take the A/C & P/S steering belt off and check the plug wires to ensure they are connected and the timing is where I want it. At that point, whenever it is, I can roll it out of the shop, install the seat and belts, and start it up. Dunno when that will be, but it is SOOOOOOON!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 So, you have a knob that has a 3/8-24 thread? Now that adapter would be perfect. If we just knew someone with a machine shop..... Maybe together we can figure this out. Later. I'd have to figure out the spline size and count, and use a broach to create the splines in a part that I could then thread. Shouldn't be too hard. Later. Yes the 80-81 knobs are 3/8-24. I'll email you in a couple of weeks and we can work it out from there. I can send you a spare knob if need be in case you want to dial it in that way. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 3, 2020 Share Posted September 3, 2020 At that point, whenever it is, I can roll it out of the shop, install the seat and belts, and start it up. Dunno when that will be, but it is SOOOOOOON!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 3, 2020 Author Share Posted September 3, 2020 At that point, whenever it is, I can roll it out of the shop, install the seat and belts, and start it up. Dunno when that will be, but it is SOOOOOOON!!!!!!! Shaun - You can start a thread about this if you want. Pics as well and we can collaborate there - and know where it is rather than in email. David - I hope mine is a bit quieter than that. (But you ought to hear that in the shop with this sound system. ) Now for the bad news. I got the replacement FDM installed and have roughly the same symptoms. On the front tank, where the new FDM is, the pressure goes right on up on the gauge. But on the rear tank it goes up to the set point on the regulator and stays there. I've not pulled the return to make sure that's the problem, again, but I'm loathe to do that. Instead I think I'm going to call Spectra. Perhaps they had a bad batch of those FDMs? Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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