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Big Blue's Transformation


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When all you have is a hammer everything's a nail. :nabble_anim_blbl:

Yeah, when I'm looking for something that is 'between' imperial sizes I go metric.

I hope the clamps on order work out for you.

I hate cutting the tails off because they always seem to be a razor sharp snag after that.

Yes, I hate cutting those clamps. But I have been known to use a Dremel on the ends to smooth them. And in this case the clamp can be taken to the bench grinder to smooth it up once I cut it off.

And, speaking of the fuel filter, for which the clamp is intended, I got it on today. But, I learned something - the fuel filter takes a 5/16" connector on both sides, even though it is in the supply line where all the other connectors are 3/8". So, I ran short of 5/16" connectors and had to order two more. Anyway, here 'tis:

Fuel_Filter_Installed.thumb.jpg.3c9913e7ea57d5aabe567b39d769a1cb.jpg

Once that was done I put a set of fuel rails on the engine with the supply and return pigtails connected. Unfortunately that meant the carb and coil had to come off, but I needed to make sure I knew where the ends of the pigtails will be so I can match them with the fuel lines.

Here's a shot of the fuel rails on, and I've added a red arrow for the supply pigtail's connection to the fuel rail and a green arrow for the return's connection.

Fuel_Rails_-_Testing_Pigtails_-_Wide.thumb.jpg.e6a2f10104141949863a3d8d56762783.jpg

Here's the other end of the pigtails. Their are pretty solid where they are, but if you look closely between them up towards the curve you can see a hole in a bracket that goes over the bell housing bolt and that makes them quite solid.

Front_Fuel_Line_Routing_-_6_-_Pigtail_Stubs.thumb.jpg.58cfd23cff1d16889a6681fb3e1c87ad.jpg

Then I played with where to put the stay that bolts to the frame. Here's where I think I want to put it as it will allow a fairly gentle curve for the lines as they come out from under the transmission crossmember. The only issue I have to work out is if I can put its fasteners there as that's quite a busy area.

Front_Fuel_Line_Routing_-_5_with_Stay.thumb.jpg.ce1c93bd2d8811a33865940848ffb6b3.jpg

And here's where the lines go. However, right now the lines are too long and go past the pigtails. That is good as I'm about out of fuel line! Sure hope I have enough.

And, before Jim asks, that position of the stay gives maximum spacing between the exhaust and the fuel lines. And that's 5". I'll put the hoses over the lines, as shown in the pic, but I plan to also put some of the insulation over them as well.

Front_Fuel_Line_Routing_-_2.thumb.jpg.1f42239d7f8e41f5fbada9eccb20dfd9.jpg

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Yes, I hate cutting those clamps. But I have been known to use a Dremel on the ends to smooth them. And in this case the clamp can be taken to the bench grinder to smooth it up once I cut it off.

And, speaking of the fuel filter, for which the clamp is intended, I got it on today. But, I learned something - the fuel filter takes a 5/16" connector on both sides, even though it is in the supply line where all the other connectors are 3/8". So, I ran short of 5/16" connectors and had to order two more. Anyway, here 'tis:

Once that was done I put a set of fuel rails on the engine with the supply and return pigtails connected. Unfortunately that meant the carb and coil had to come off, but I needed to make sure I knew where the ends of the pigtails will be so I can match them with the fuel lines.

Here's a shot of the fuel rails on, and I've added a red arrow for the supply pigtail's connection to the fuel rail and a green arrow for the return's connection.

Here's the other end of the pigtails. Their are pretty solid where they are, but if you look closely between them up towards the curve you can see a hole in a bracket that goes over the bell housing bolt and that makes them quite solid.

Then I played with where to put the stay that bolts to the frame. Here's where I think I want to put it as it will allow a fairly gentle curve for the lines as they come out from under the transmission crossmember. The only issue I have to work out is if I can put its fasteners there as that's quite a busy area.

And here's where the lines go. However, right now the lines are too long and go past the pigtails. That is good as I'm about out of fuel line! Sure hope I have enough.

And, before Jim asks, that position of the stay gives maximum spacing between the exhaust and the fuel lines. And that's 5". I'll put the hoses over the lines, as shown in the pic, but I plan to also put some of the insulation over them as well.

Ok, now it makes sense why what have vs what you have. Your fuel lines etc. are from the huck and I ended up using later lines on Darth. Here is the set Jim pulled off the 1995 F450:

IMG_2502.thumb.jpg.87bce19ab651e4dd04e175b3e31a6bf5.jpg

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Yes, I hate cutting those clamps. But I have been known to use a Dremel on the ends to smooth them. And in this case the clamp can be taken to the bench grinder to smooth it up once I cut it off.

And, speaking of the fuel filter, for which the clamp is intended, I got it on today. But, I learned something - the fuel filter takes a 5/16" connector on both sides, even though it is in the supply line where all the other connectors are 3/8". So, I ran short of 5/16" connectors and had to order two more. Anyway, here 'tis:

Once that was done I put a set of fuel rails on the engine with the supply and return pigtails connected. Unfortunately that meant the carb and coil had to come off, but I needed to make sure I knew where the ends of the pigtails will be so I can match them with the fuel lines.

Here's a shot of the fuel rails on, and I've added a red arrow for the supply pigtail's connection to the fuel rail and a green arrow for the return's connection.

Here's the other end of the pigtails. Their are pretty solid where they are, but if you look closely between them up towards the curve you can see a hole in a bracket that goes over the bell housing bolt and that makes them quite solid.

Then I played with where to put the stay that bolts to the frame. Here's where I think I want to put it as it will allow a fairly gentle curve for the lines as they come out from under the transmission crossmember. The only issue I have to work out is if I can put its fasteners there as that's quite a busy area.

And here's where the lines go. However, right now the lines are too long and go past the pigtails. That is good as I'm about out of fuel line! Sure hope I have enough.

And, before Jim asks, that position of the stay gives maximum spacing between the exhaust and the fuel lines. And that's 5". I'll put the hoses over the lines, as shown in the pic, but I plan to also put some of the insulation over them as well.

Ok, now it makes sense why what have vs what you have. Your fuel lines etc. are from the huck and I ended up using later lines on Darth. Here is the set Jim pulled off the 1995 F450:

IMG_2502.thumb.jpg.e32a646f9d4534e809609167c5c21b63.jpg

One item, given (a) the close proximity of the fuel filter to the front driveshaft location and (b) the fact that you and your kids are planning on overlanding in Big Blue, I believe I would put a reasonably substantial shield between the rear joint on the front shaft and the fuel filter. A U-joint breaking or coming loose out in BFE is potentially a big enough problem, but if it takes out the fuel filter and lines at the same time, well, you get the picture and the exhaust location will just add to it.

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Ok, now it makes sense why what have vs what you have. Your fuel lines etc. are from the huck and I ended up using later lines on Darth. Here is the set Jim pulled off the 1995 F450:

One item, given (a) the close proximity of the fuel filter to the front driveshaft location and (b) the fact that you and your kids are planning on overlanding in Big Blue, I believe I would put a reasonably substantial shield between the rear joint on the front shaft and the fuel filter. A U-joint breaking or coming loose out in BFE is potentially a big enough problem, but if it takes out the fuel filter and lines at the same time, well, you get the picture and the exhaust location will just add to it.

Bill - So they later went with stainless tubing after hoses to come down the tranny. Interesting. But I think the approach I'm going with will work just fine.

As for the shield, that's a good idea. It shouldn't be hard to do that to protect the filter area.

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Bill - So they later went with stainless tubing after hoses to come down the tranny. Interesting. But I think the approach I'm going with will work just fine.

As for the shield, that's a good idea. It shouldn't be hard to do that to protect the filter area.

Gary, the blue and gray hoses come down the transmission/clutch housing area as my pictures of Darth show. The stainless is from the frame bracket back toward the fuel filter and the return wye which is the reason one line is a lot longer.

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Gary, the blue and gray hoses come down the transmission/clutch housing area as my pictures of Darth show. The stainless is from the frame bracket back toward the fuel filter and the return wye which is the reason one line is a lot longer.

Yep. That's what I thought. My hoses from Huck would have plugged right into the filter on the supply side and had a double-barb to join on the return.

Still don't know where I got the stainless tubes. They must have come with Huck but were just loose.

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Yep. That's what I thought. My hoses from Huck would have plugged right into the filter on the supply side and had a double-barb to join on the return.

Still don't know where I got the stainless tubes. They must have come with Huck but were just loose.

Got the "waterproof" relays in today. I'm really impressed. As you can see the terminals into the relay are sealed. And the blue seals on the socket seal the relay's skirt to the socket. Plus, the lines themselves are sealed going into the socket.

Waterproof_Relay__Socket.thumb.jpg.cf854b37b355b8bed1f3fa013f6afb1d.jpg

Now for what I did today, the first thing was to get the fuel line stay installed. But where I wanted to put it was a bit on the busy side with other fasteners, so it took a bit of measuring. However, I got it installed. Here 'tis, albeit with the old fuel lines going through it:

Fuel_Line_Stay_ON.thumb.jpg.82885414902a7d5fdd87be7425a42e9c.jpg

But, on the other side you can see how tight the fit was. I couldn't even get nuts in, so I drilled the frame and tapped it 6 x 1.00mm.

Fuel_Line_Stay_Bolts_JUST_Fit.thumb.jpg.a63a10864201e1d2cba02196732ebab7.jpg

With that in place I moved on to running the fuel lines through the stay. But, I quickly learned that the factory lines, which are shown in the picture above, that went through the stay were apparently 5/16" as my 3/8" lines didn't want to fit. So I added a spacer in the middle, which seems to have worked as you can see in the pic below, which has the 3/8" lines running through it.

And, in the pic below, you can see that that I've added the connector to the supply line and have it connected to the pigtail going up to the EFI fuel rails. And, I've re-used the factory EFI fuel hose that was over the nylon fuel line to ensure the line doesn't kink on those bends. And, it provides a bit of insulation, although I will add the line insulation I have left over from the dip stick and clutch line.

Supply_Line_Connected_To_Pigtail.thumb.jpg.aefbe0c594900256bd5e32abe98e6390.jpg

Tomorrow the 5/16" connectors are supposed to be delivered so I might get a chance to add one of them to the return line. Then I can start on the hoses going up to the regulator, and placement of the regulator. Amazon delivered the quick-connector/6AN flares, but not the flare/barb connectors, so I may get hung up there.

 

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Got the "waterproof" relays in today. I'm really impressed. As you can see the terminals into the relay are sealed. And the blue seals on the socket seal the relay's skirt to the socket. Plus, the lines themselves are sealed going into the socket.

Now for what I did today, the first thing was to get the fuel line stay installed. But where I wanted to put it was a bit on the busy side with other fasteners, so it took a bit of measuring. However, I got it installed. Here 'tis, albeit with the old fuel lines going through it:

But, on the other side you can see how tight the fit was. I couldn't even get nuts in, so I drilled the frame and tapped it 6 x 1.00mm.

With that in place I moved on to running the fuel lines through the stay. But, I quickly learned that the factory lines, which are shown in the picture above, that went through the stay were apparently 5/16" as my 3/8" lines didn't want to fit. So I added a spacer in the middle, which seems to have worked as you can see in the pic below, which has the 3/8" lines running through it.

And, in the pic below, you can see that that I've added the connector to the supply line and have it connected to the pigtail going up to the EFI fuel rails. And, I've re-used the factory EFI fuel hose that was over the nylon fuel line to ensure the line doesn't kink on those bends. And, it provides a bit of insulation, although I will add the line insulation I have left over from the dip stick and clutch line.

Tomorrow the 5/16" connectors are supposed to be delivered so I might get a chance to add one of them to the return line. Then I can start on the hoses going up to the regulator, and placement of the regulator. Amazon delivered the quick-connector/6AN flares, but not the flare/barb connectors, so I may get hung up there.

Got the 5/16" connector in this morning, and installed it this afternoon, along with the outer hose for reinforcement and the tubing insulation. Here's a shot of the front fuel lines, temporarily connected to the pigtails:

Fuel_Lines_Insulated.thumb.jpg.9fe991a5591a6e15552227a40d99ce4c.jpg

But then I added a heat shield for the stay made out of 1/8" aluminum:

Fuel_Line_Stay_with_Heat_Shield.thumb.jpg.b47b8b56b0c5be38cb92a702b89f2613.jpg

And here's a side shot showing how much space there is to the exhaust, which is 4 1/2". I think we are in good shape.

Exhaust_To_Fuel_System_View.thumb.jpg.1d7e3dda3be7abcf38afe46a67d5da66.jpg

And, I got in the project box so I'm ready to install it and the relay. Plus, I got the hose fittings in, so I can then move on to mounting the regulator and the carb. We may have a running engine soon!

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Got the "waterproof" relays in today. I'm really impressed. As you can see the terminals into the relay are sealed. And the blue seals on the socket seal the relay's skirt to the socket. Plus, the lines themselves are sealed going into the socket.

Now for what I did today, the first thing was to get the fuel line stay installed. But where I wanted to put it was a bit on the busy side with other fasteners, so it took a bit of measuring. However, I got it installed. Here 'tis, albeit with the old fuel lines going through it:

But, on the other side you can see how tight the fit was. I couldn't even get nuts in, so I drilled the frame and tapped it 6 x 1.00mm.

With that in place I moved on to running the fuel lines through the stay. But, I quickly learned that the factory lines, which are shown in the picture above, that went through the stay were apparently 5/16" as my 3/8" lines didn't want to fit. So I added a spacer in the middle, which seems to have worked as you can see in the pic below, which has the 3/8" lines running through it.

And, in the pic below, you can see that that I've added the connector to the supply line and have it connected to the pigtail going up to the EFI fuel rails. And, I've re-used the factory EFI fuel hose that was over the nylon fuel line to ensure the line doesn't kink on those bends. And, it provides a bit of insulation, although I will add the line insulation I have left over from the dip stick and clutch line.

Tomorrow the 5/16" connectors are supposed to be delivered so I might get a chance to add one of them to the return line. Then I can start on the hoses going up to the regulator, and placement of the regulator. Amazon delivered the quick-connector/6AN flares, but not the flare/barb connectors, so I may get hung up there.

Very Very nice work Gary

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