Big Blue's Transformation

[Rusty_S85]

Thanks. I appreciate the input. But I'm thinking since I have several quarts of Brad Penn oil that I'll go with their break-in oil and then use their oil long term. It is expensive stuff, but the engine wasn't cheap by any stretch, so I'd better go with what the engine builder recommends.

Nothing wrong with that. Ive always had luck with Valvoline so I stick with what has worked for me. I used to use Penn. but I switched from that cause with in 200 miles of an oil change stuff was already turning black which is a sign of it cleaning and doing its job but with normal regular oil changes there shouldnt be anything that needs to be cleaned to turn the oil black.

But Brad Penn is good oil though, we've used it at work before but we stock VR1 now for flat tappets cause our source of Brad Penn has gone up in price where its cheaper to stock VR1.

[Gary Lewis]

Nothing wrong with that. Ive always had luck with Valvoline so I stick with what has worked for me. I used to use Penn. but I switched from that cause with in 200 miles of an oil change stuff was already turning black which is a sign of it cleaning and doing its job but with normal regular oil changes there shouldnt be anything that needs to be cleaned to turn the oil black.

But Brad Penn is good oil though, we've used it at work before but we stock VR1 now for flat tappets cause our source of Brad Penn has gone up in price where its cheaper to stock VR1.

The Brad Penn starts out looking dirty, so yes it is black very quickly when you start driving. So I change by miles or time, not color.

And, it is pricey. But I have 8 quarts so I might as well go that way and use it.

[Gary Lewis]

The Brad Penn starts out looking dirty, so yes it is black very quickly when you start driving. So I change by miles or time, not color.

And, it is pricey. But I have 8 quarts so I might as well go that way and use it.

Got several things done today. But first, I visited our member DeWayne/93F3507.3 at Skiatook Auto Parts to get several things. He couldn't find an aftermarket version of the F5TZ 8260-A upper radiator hose that doesn't have the huge hump in it, but said he would keep trying and get back with me.

And, he didn't have a bushing/adapter to make the one-piece lower radiator hose fit the smaller 1993+ water pumps, so I came home and ordered Gates 26392, which should be here tomorrow. But I did get a Dayco 71215 lower hose, which is a perfect fit other than that it is 1/4" too big on the water pump end. However, it has a neat protection sleeve where it goes over the steering gear box, as you'll see in a minute.

I also got a new thermostat and gasket, and installed them. Plus I bought 8' of new heater hose and cut 2 1/2" off and put it on for the bypass hose. (That was a lot easier than I thought it would be. )

And I got coolant as well as an FL-1A, the latter of which has been installed, as you can see below. In this pic the oil cooler hoses are installed as is the lower radiator hose with the exception of the connection to the water pump. And I have a zip tie in place to ensure the oil cooler hoses done bounce into the A/C & P/S belt. So when I get the adapter I can finish off that bit.

Then I turned to the hood latches as I want to be able to secure the hood when it comes times to test. On the first test the safety latch stuck in the hood. And upon examination I found this, although I'm not sure what would cause that.

Anyway I spaced the safety latch out with washers to get to good metal, and then turned to the regular hood latch. Man, was it stiff, but a bit of lube limbered it up a bit. However I found that there was a bit of interference between it and the top inside edge of the cooler. A bit of bending of the latch as well as some washers for spacers got the necessary clearance and after a few tests this happened. First time in a year, and it shuts and releases better than it has since I got it.

[85lebaront2]

Got several things done today. But first, I visited our member DeWayne/93F3507.3 at Skiatook Auto Parts to get several things. He couldn't find an aftermarket version of the F5TZ 8260-A upper radiator hose that doesn't have the huge hump in it, but said he would keep trying and get back with me.

And, he didn't have a bushing/adapter to make the one-piece lower radiator hose fit the smaller 1993+ water pumps, so I came home and ordered Gates 26392, which should be here tomorrow. But I did get a Dayco 71215 lower hose, which is a perfect fit other than that it is 1/4" too big on the water pump end. However, it has a neat protection sleeve where it goes over the steering gear box, as you'll see in a minute.

I also got a new thermostat and gasket, and installed them. Plus I bought 8' of new heater hose and cut 2 1/2" off and put it on for the bypass hose. (That was a lot easier than I thought it would be. )

And I got coolant as well as an FL-1A, the latter of which has been installed, as you can see below. In this pic the oil cooler hoses are installed as is the lower radiator hose with the exception of the connection to the water pump. And I have a zip tie in place to ensure the oil cooler hoses done bounce into the A/C & P/S belt. So when I get the adapter I can finish off that bit.

Then I turned to the hood latches as I want to be able to secure the hood when it comes times to test. On the first test the safety latch stuck in the hood. And upon examination I found this, although I'm not sure what would cause that.

Anyway I spaced the safety latch out with washers to get to good metal, and then turned to the regular hood latch. Man, was it stiff, but a bit of lube limbered it up a bit. However I found that there was a bit of interference between it and the top inside edge of the cooler. A bit of bending of the latch as well as some washers for spacers got the necessary clearance and after a few tests this happened. First time in a year, and it shuts and releases better than it has since I got it.

Gary, the split in the safety catch area was most likely caused by it being stiff and the hood (bonnet for the Brits) slammed to latch it. The one on my konvertible is like that, I just crimped it together and then put some paint on the catch and pushed it down gently after aligning the hood. It no longer hit the cracked area after that.

Looks good! BTW, my upper hose came off a truck at Pick-n-Pull along with the thermostat housing.

Is the radiator in BB an all metal one? If so how many rows?

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, the split in the safety catch area was most likely caused by it being stiff and the hood (bonnet for the Brits) slammed to latch it. The one on my konvertible is like that, I just crimped it together and then put some paint on the catch and pushed it down gently after aligning the hood. It no longer hit the cracked area after that.

Looks good! BTW, my upper hose came off a truck at Pick-n-Pull along with the thermostat housing.

Is the radiator in BB an all metal one? If so how many rows?

Thanks, Bill. I think it is coming together nicely.

As for the split in the hood, you are probably right about how it happened. On mine the metal at the rear was pushed up, so I pulled it back down even with the front. And with the spacing of the latch it is hitting good metal so won't jamb. But when I get it painted some day I'll just have it welded up.

On the upper hose, I've found the Ford hose in a couple of places. It is discontinued, so you have to look for it, but I think I've found it.

And the radiator is a copper/brass one from CompleteRadiators.com according to the receipt. But they appear to be out of business so I've not been able to determine exactly what it is. It was $320 in 2012 and says "Brass Tanks". But as thick and heavy it is I'd bet it is a 3-row.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bill. I think it is coming together nicely.

As for the split in the hood, you are probably right about how it happened. On mine the metal at the rear was pushed up, so I pulled it back down even with the front. And with the spacing of the latch it is hitting good metal so won't jamb. But when I get it painted some day I'll just have it welded up.

On the upper hose, I've found the Ford hose in a couple of places. It is discontinued, so you have to look for it, but I think I've found it.

And the radiator is a copper/brass one from CompleteRadiators.com according to the receipt. But they appear to be out of business so I've not been able to determine exactly what it is. It was $320 in 2012 and says "Brass Tanks". But as thick and heavy it is I'd bet it is a 3-row.

I got this in from Detroit Muscle Technologies regarding the gaskets for the HVAC box: "Slight delay getting this truck heater box rebuild kit shipped. We had to get a replacement steel rule die cutting tool. Should be in later this week."

That's disappointing as it is keeping me from finishing that aspect of the project. But there are plenty of other things to do, like the fuel system, exhaust system, etc. I just like to get whole aspects of the overall project done.

[Rusty_S85]

I got this in from Detroit Muscle Technologies regarding the gaskets for the HVAC box: "Slight delay getting this truck heater box rebuild kit shipped. We had to get a replacement steel rule die cutting tool. Should be in later this week."

That's disappointing as it is keeping me from finishing that aspect of the project. But there are plenty of other things to do, like the fuel system, exhaust system, etc. I just like to get whole aspects of the overall project done.

what kind of heater box gasket kit?

Is it the gasket for the heater box to firewall or the temperature blend door?

I made my own but dont like it and been thinking of hunting down a replacement one that works properly.

[Gary Lewis]

what kind of heater box gasket kit?

Is it the gasket for the heater box to firewall or the temperature blend door?

I made my own but dont like it and been thinking of hunting down a replacement one that works properly.

What I'm waiting for are the gaskets to seal the box to the firewall, but I've ordered those for Big Blue as well as the full kit for Dad's truck. It is from Detroit Muscle Technologies and includes:

• Blower Motor to Engine AC Heater Box Seal (Engine Side) - .187 foam rubber - Ford part# D9AZ-18N260-A

• AC Heater Box Air Intake to Firewall Seal (Engine Side) - .437" foam rubber - Ford part# E5TZ-19B762

• Heater Core Tubes to Firewall Seal (Interior Side) - .625" foam rubber

• Dash Ducts to Main Interior Plenum Seal (Interior Side) - 1" charcoal foam

• Main Interior Plenum to Firewall Seal (Interior Side) - 1" charcoal foam

• AC Heater Box Air Exhaust to Firewall Seal (Engine Compartment Side) - .25" charcoal foam

[Gary Lewis]

I got this in from Detroit Muscle Technologies regarding the gaskets for the HVAC box: "Slight delay getting this truck heater box rebuild kit shipped. We had to get a replacement steel rule die cutting tool. Should be in later this week."

That's disappointing as it is keeping me from finishing that aspect of the project. But there are plenty of other things to do, like the fuel system, exhaust system, etc. I just like to get whole aspects of the overall project done.

Morning report:

• DeWayne couldn't find the upper hose, F5TZ 8260-A, anywhere so I ordered one from Tasca Parts.

• Pulled the trigger on the Brad Penn break-in oil. Amazon had the best pricing when including shipping, but given the massive engine oil cooler I thought I'd better get 7 quarts. Turns out 7 quarts is more expensive than 12 quarts! So that's what I ordered.

• The Gates 26392 2" to 1 3/4" hose adapter came in and I've installed it and the lower radiator hose. And it cinched up the zip tie that prevents the oil cooler hoses from hitting the belt.

• Turns out that a 9/16" bolt is essentially perfect for the panhard rod ends. So I ordered a 17-pack of 9/16-12 x 3 1/2" from Amazon for $10.84.

  Here are the measurements:

  14mm: .490" shank but .540" shoulder & threads

  9/16": .560" shank

  Frame bracket: .560"

  Axle bracket: .570"

  Ford rod: .565"

  Sky rod: .590"

[1986F150Six]

And while I was looking at this pic of the back of the grille I saw the nuts holding the Ford emblem on, which reminded me of my thought of painting the grille black. It would be easy to remove the emblem, spray it black, and put it back. But I wonder how a blue Ford emblem will look in a fully-black grille? I gave away the old grille off Dad's truck, but the 80/81 grille might have looked better than an 82/86 grille.

Thoughts, ya'll?

It will look just fine!