Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Glad you took a second look and remembered the carbureted setup was for break-in and not permanent. For now, if you want to retain an oil pressure operated pump system, simply change the wiring on the existing oil pressure switch to ground the relay coil or change the switch to a late model "sender" which is a reverse function switch (open with no pressure, closed with pressure).

Yeah, I twigged to that last night when I was looking at the '96 EVTM and saw that the inertia switch is after the fuel pump relay and feeds the tank selector switch. That's what got me to thinking about the selector switch, selector relay, etc.

So I'll still need to re-wire some as the PDB is wired to power the FPR with a 20a fuse off the main buss and I'll want to retain that. That will require a bit of thinking.....

As for the oil pressure switch, I have the one that has both NO and NC contacts. But, I don't know that I'll be using it at all in the future. We shall see.

[85lebaront2]

Yeah, I twigged to that last night when I was looking at the '96 EVTM and saw that the inertia switch is after the fuel pump relay and feeds the tank selector switch. That's what got me to thinking about the selector switch, selector relay, etc.

So I'll still need to re-wire some as the PDB is wired to power the FPR with a 20a fuse off the main buss and I'll want to retain that. That will require a bit of thinking.....

As for the oil pressure switch, I have the one that has both NO and NC contacts. But, I don't know that I'll be using it at all in the future. We shall see.

Gary, once the EFI is functional, the EEC controls the pumps. It will cycle the selected tank pump to pressurize the system, then shut it off. Once the EEC receives the "engine turning" and starter powered it will energize the pump and start firing injectors using the "start" table. Once the engine is running it switches to the normal fuel and spark control. If the engine stalls, the fuel pump is turned off for safety.

As a result, there is ne need for the oil pressure switch unless you want it as a protection device to shut the pump down if there is no oil pressure. However, the EEC has to receive the needed signal from the FPR (called FPR monitor) so it knows the pump has power.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, once the EFI is functional, the EEC controls the pumps. It will cycle the selected tank pump to pressurize the system, then shut it off. Once the EEC receives the "engine turning" and starter powered it will energize the pump and start firing injectors using the "start" table. Once the engine is running it switches to the normal fuel and spark control. If the engine stalls, the fuel pump is turned off for safety.

As a result, there is ne need for the oil pressure switch unless you want it as a protection device to shut the pump down if there is no oil pressure. However, the EEC has to receive the needed signal from the FPR (called FPR monitor) so it knows the pump has power.

Thanks for the explanation, Bill. I think I'll do away with the pressure switch as I do the rewiring. No need to make it more complicated that it will already be.

For the EFI system I want to keep it pretty close to stock '96 so it can be troubleshot when the time comes.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the explanation, Bill. I think I'll do away with the pressure switch as I do the rewiring. No need to make it more complicated that it will already be.

For the EFI system I want to keep it pretty close to stock '96 so it can be troubleshot when the time comes.

I intended to reroute the windshield washer pump's wiring today, but when I got started I discovered that I really needed to remove the aux battery to get to where the convolute on that harness starts, and then things got crazy.

So, what I really did was to essentially install the EFI air cleaner box. I say "essentially" because right now I'm using standoffs made out of PEX, which works pretty nicely. But I'll make some real spacers tomorrow and finish that up.

Why spacers? Because the Bullnose fenders have a piece sticking out where the Bricknose fenders don't. So the box has to be spaced in 5/8" to clear that bump, and that makes the cold air duct a very tight fit, so I had to make the spacers as short as possible. But, it works.

Here's a shot of the air box bracket. Notice that I used the corner support from the battery mount to support the outboard end of the air box bracket. And, while it looks like the battery hold down touches the air box bracket, it doesn't - it misses by 1/8". Also, you can see two of the blue PEX standoffs in this pic, and you can see the raised area in the fender that makes the spacers needed.

Here's the same shot with the air box and cold air duct installed. Note how the air conditioning line goes above the cold air duct, and how close the duct is to the power steering pump.

And, in this shot you can see where the PDB will go - right where the ignition modules are, which is going to make things interesting if I want to run the PDB before I change out to EFI. Hmmm, the switches are rated for 20A so maybe I don't need relays for the fog and backup lights.

Now for the cold air duct. Apparently the Bricknose radiator support has a bigger opening, and it may be in a different position. I say that because the cold air duct is 6" tall and the opening in the radiator support is 5" tall. And, this one is really too close to the radiator to work perfectly with this duct. But, with the mod's shown below it works. You can see that I cut off the curved end and cut two steps into the duct where the red arrows are. The part sticking out goes into the opening in the radiator support and anchors the duct.

And here's my best shot of how the lip sticks out through the radiator support, but it is obviously hard to see due to the grille. If I had to do it over again I might leave the curved section on and just put the notches in.

Thoughts?

 

[kramttocs]

I intended to reroute the windshield washer pump's wiring today, but when I got started I discovered that I really needed to remove the aux battery to get to where the convolute on that harness starts, and then things got crazy.

So, what I really did was to essentially install the EFI air cleaner box. I say "essentially" because right now I'm using standoffs made out of PEX, which works pretty nicely. But I'll make some real spacers tomorrow and finish that up.

Why spacers? Because the Bullnose fenders have a piece sticking out where the Bricknose fenders don't. So the box has to be spaced in 5/8" to clear that bump, and that makes the cold air duct a very tight fit, so I had to make the spacers as short as possible. But, it works.

Here's a shot of the air box bracket. Notice that I used the corner support from the battery mount to support the outboard end of the air box bracket. And, while it looks like the battery hold down touches the air box bracket, it doesn't - it misses by 1/8". Also, you can see two of the blue PEX standoffs in this pic, and you can see the raised area in the fender that makes the spacers needed.

Here's the same shot with the air box and cold air duct installed. Note how the air conditioning line goes above the cold air duct, and how close the duct is to the power steering pump.

And, in this shot you can see where the PDB will go - right where the ignition modules are, which is going to make things interesting if I want to run the PDB before I change out to EFI. Hmmm, the switches are rated for 20A so maybe I don't need relays for the fog and backup lights.

Now for the cold air duct. Apparently the Bricknose radiator support has a bigger opening, and it may be in a different position. I say that because the cold air duct is 6" tall and the opening in the radiator support is 5" tall. And, this one is really too close to the radiator to work perfectly with this duct. But, with the mod's shown below it works. You can see that I cut off the curved end and cut two steps into the duct where the red arrows are. The part sticking out goes into the opening in the radiator support and anchors the duct.

And here's my best shot of how the lip sticks out through the radiator support, but it is obviously hard to see due to the grille. If I had to do it over again I might leave the curved section on and just put the notches in.

Thoughts?

Meaning also running larger wiring into the cab vs using the clock wiring?

What about just standalone relays in that vicinity that you can swap the wires into the pdb later?

[Gary Lewis]

Meaning also running larger wiring into the cab vs using the clock wiring?

What about just standalone relays in that vicinity that you can swap the wires into the pdb later?

I like that idea, Scott. I do have plenty of relays on hand.

Another option might be to put the PDB in place and then make a bracket to hold the ignition module on its side. But, in reality, a large part of the ignition wiring gets taken out when EFI goes in, so it might be best to just use a couple of extra relays for the moment for fog and backup lights.

Or, do I really need the fog and backup lights right now? Perhaps they are for later, meaning when I do some overlanding?

Lots of thoughts. Guess I'd better let them settle a bit...

[kramttocs]

I like that idea, Scott. I do have plenty of relays on hand.

Another option might be to put the PDB in place and then make a bracket to hold the ignition module on its side. But, in reality, a large part of the ignition wiring gets taken out when EFI goes in, so it might be best to just use a couple of extra relays for the moment for fog and backup lights.

Or, do I really need the fog and backup lights right now? Perhaps they are for later, meaning when I do some overlanding?

Lots of thoughts. Guess I'd better let them settle a bit...

How are you hooking into the backup circuit for the 'on with reverse' position?

I can only think of two options we have with pros/cons to both. Not a big circuit so pretty limited.

 

[Gary Lewis]

How are you hooking into the backup circuit for the 'on with reverse' position?

I can only think of two options we have with pros/cons to both. Not a big circuit so pretty limited.

Scott - I was assuming I'd tap into the P/O wire near the fuse box and run it up to the switch. The other side of the switch would be always hot, so you can pick between on with the tranny in reverse, off, or always on.

But, is there another way?

[kramttocs]

Scott - I was assuming I'd tap into the P/O wire near the fuse box and run it up to the switch. The other side of the switch would be always hot, so you can pick between on with the tranny in reverse, off, or always on.

But, is there another way?

Hey Gary,

Unfortunately it will have to be the BK/PK wire at or after the tranny.

Could splice into that wire (or make a jumper between C128) or since we have the trailer wiring it could be done at the rear crossmember using that trailer connector and a little rewiring back there.

I am leaning towards the latter since I don't care for the light gauge BK/PK being used to try and power who knows what could be on the trailer anyways.

So my thought is to remove the trailer bk/pk from the 7pin harness, run it to the switch, then from the relay run the heavier gauge wire to be used for both the aux backup lights and the trailer backup.

With your 20A switch you wouldn't need a fuse before the switch but for my 2A one I will.

Just my thoughts.

 

[85lebaront2]

Hey Gary,

Unfortunately it will have to be the BK/PK wire at or after the tranny.

Could splice into that wire (or make a jumper between C128) or since we have the trailer wiring it could be done at the rear crossmember using that trailer connector and a little rewiring back there.

I am leaning towards the latter since I don't care for the light gauge BK/PK being used to try and power who knows what could be on the trailer anyways.

So my thought is to remove the trailer bk/pk from the 7pin harness, run it to the switch, then from the relay run the heavier gauge wire to be used for both the aux backup lights and the trailer backup.

With your 20A switch you wouldn't need a fuse before the switch but for my 2A one I will.

Just my thoughts. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

This is one of those "I'm glad I updated Darth's wiring to 1996" moments. My backup light circuit comes up to a 16 way underhood connector, then goes in through the 76 way connector (in picture) and has a branch that isn't used and back out through the 24 way connector. I also have, in the auxiliary relay box next to my PDC, a trailer battery charge relay and a trailer back up lamps relay. I have added by using an auxiliary relay box from a bronco instead of the two relay box as it holds 4 relays, left and right signal lamp relays. That way any trailer lights are isolated from the truck lights with the exception of the 7 rear and fender clearance lamps. Those are on a relay that also powers the trailer running lamps.

I suspect the unused backup lamp feed could be used on a wrecker for floodlights in reverse.