Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Haven't been under a reg cab to look in awhile but isn't the driver side nut underneath somewhat obscured by the side tank? If the nut was fixed, I would go that route but requiring two people to remove and replace a caddy is what is giving me pause.

Granted if you never remove it, it's a non issue

Sorry, I don't mean a plate to go across the whole caddy, just something with some surface area (like the large washer on the cab bolt). With the bottom fixed like that and no taller than the caddy is, I wouldn't think there'd be much forward movement allowed at the top but that's an 'in-person' call.

Update: Don't get me wrong, I really like the idea of using existing mounting points for the caddy. That's why the double hex stud is appealing, to me at least, as it uses those points but allows removal of the caddy without having to have two people. Not sure those exist in that size/length outside of diy though.

Well, I'd forgotten how much fun it is to remove/install the rear cab bolts. On Dad't truck I had to put a breakover on the bolt heads, prop it up against the back wall, and go under and tighten. Yep, that wasn't fun.

And I see what you are saying about the stud arrangement. Drill the storage unit to let the head/washer pass through, set the storage unit in place, put a larger washer on top, and run a nut down.

However, if I'm going to cut holes in the bottom to clear the head/washer of the bolt, why not just put other bolts/washers/nuts in a couple of other locations and be done with it? That way I wouldn't have to pull the existing cab bolts out.

[kramttocs]

Well, I'd forgotten how much fun it is to remove/install the rear cab bolts. On Dad't truck I had to put a breakover on the bolt heads, prop it up against the back wall, and go under and tighten. Yep, that wasn't fun.

And I see what you are saying about the stud arrangement. Drill the storage unit to let the head/washer pass through, set the storage unit in place, put a larger washer on top, and run a nut down.

However, if I'm going to cut holes in the bottom to clear the head/washer of the bolt, why not just put other bolts/washers/nuts in a couple of other locations and be done with it? That way I wouldn't have to pull the existing cab bolts out.

So drill through both layers of cab where that cavity is and out through the bottom?

 

[Gary Lewis]

So drill through both layers of cab where that cavity is and out through the bottom?

Actually, I forgot it is two layers. So, maybe just use some #12 sheet metal screws into that first layer? Or, better yet, a couple of 1/4-20 nutserts?

[kramttocs]

Actually, I forgot it is two layers. So, maybe just use some #12 sheet metal screws into that first layer? Or, better yet, a couple of 1/4-20 nutserts?

I like the nutsert idea if taking that route. Since these will be smaller bolts (vs 7/16) and that single layer of metal won't have the rigidity like the cab mount would, going back to the tabs coming down from the top would keep it solid. Bottom wouldn't slide and top wouldn't lean

[Gary Lewis]

I like the nutsert idea if taking that route. Since these will be smaller bolts (vs 7/16) and that single layer of metal won't have the rigidity like the cab mount would, going back to the tabs coming down from the top would keep it solid. Bottom wouldn't slide and top wouldn't lean

Yep. And I can keep the foam insulation that's on there as w/a 1/4" bolt I'm not going to be cranking it down enough to break the plastic due to deformation of the foam. Plus, it makes alignment easy. Set the unit in place, drill the holes, pull it out and install the rivnuts. The holes will match.

[Gary Lewis]

Yep. And I can keep the foam insulation that's on there as w/a 1/4" bolt I'm not going to be cranking it down enough to break the plastic due to deformation of the foam. Plus, it makes alignment easy. Set the unit in place, drill the holes, pull it out and install the rivnuts. The holes will match.

Middle of the night thought: There's a metal trim piece that goes into the holes shown with the red arrows. I have an extra, so how 'bout slotting it to miss the vertical pieces in the storage unit and using it to hold the top of the unit back against the wall?

I wouldn't have to be limited to the number of screw holes that are in it as I could add some to make it more secure. And since that part of the cab is double-walled I could even put nutserts there to increase the holding power.

I'm going to be painting some/all of the metal trim anyway, so I could slot the piece using the mill to make the slots smooth and paint this one as well.

Thoughts?

[Gary Lewis]

Middle of the night thought: There's a metal trim piece that goes into the holes shown with the red arrows. I have an extra, so how 'bout slotting it to miss the vertical pieces in the storage unit and using it to hold the top of the unit back against the wall?

I wouldn't have to be limited to the number of screw holes that are in it as I could add some to make it more secure. And since that part of the cab is double-walled I could even put nutserts there to increase the holding power.

I'm going to be painting some/all of the metal trim anyway, so I could slot the piece using the mill to make the slots smooth and paint this one as well.

Thoughts?

Got the speaker working - a wire had come off it. And, I got the passenger's speaker in. The system sounds decent - but there's no bass to speak of. However, as Janey pointed out, we aren't driving Big Blue in order to listen to music. We may do it some, and if I'm by myself I may crank the tunes up a bit, but she doesn't like the music loud, so we'll just listen a bit and then turn it off for a while.

Also, I did some research on the storage unit, inverter, wiring, etc. First, the cab mount bolt heads stick up ~1/4", so with the carpet out and holes to fit the storage unit over the bolts it might drop 1/2", which is very welcome as that'll help the inverter clear the seat a bit better.

That may cause me to have to drill new holes in the trim piece I'm considering using to capture the top of the unit, but it'll be close. Here's the piece I'm talking about and the hole is 5/8" above the bottom of the inner panel. So if the storage unit drops 1/2" and I want 1/4" of engagement I'll have to drill new holes.

And now for the wiring plan - and I'd like your thoughts, please.

I'll be using #2 wire from the aux battery, through a megafuse, then through the original aux battery relay. Then I'll go right down the fender liner, along the rocker panel, up through grommets in the cab corner, and then under the add-on step that the storage unit will be sitting on, and over to the inverter.

Here's the only minor hurdle in that plan, but I think the wiring will easily go past that.

Then along the rocker panel to that existing grommet for one wire and a new grommet for the other wire and into the cab.

It'll enter the cab where the right arrow is and go under that add-on piece, suitably modified, where the left arrow is. And it'll go up through the bottom of the storage unit right into the inverter.

[kramttocs]

Got the speaker working - a wire had come off it. And, I got the passenger's speaker in. The system sounds decent - but there's no bass to speak of. However, as Janey pointed out, we aren't driving Big Blue in order to listen to music. We may do it some, and if I'm by myself I may crank the tunes up a bit, but she doesn't like the music loud, so we'll just listen a bit and then turn it off for a while.

Also, I did some research on the storage unit, inverter, wiring, etc. First, the cab mount bolt heads stick up ~1/4", so with the carpet out and holes to fit the storage unit over the bolts it might drop 1/2", which is very welcome as that'll help the inverter clear the seat a bit better.

That may cause me to have to drill new holes in the trim piece I'm considering using to capture the top of the unit, but it'll be close. Here's the piece I'm talking about and the hole is 5/8" above the bottom of the inner panel. So if the storage unit drops 1/2" and I want 1/4" of engagement I'll have to drill new holes.

And now for the wiring plan - and I'd like your thoughts, please.

I'll be using #2 wire from the aux battery, through a megafuse, then through the original aux battery relay. Then I'll go right down the fender liner, along the rocker panel, up through grommets in the cab corner, and then under the add-on step that the storage unit will be sitting on, and over to the inverter.

Here's the only minor hurdle in that plan, but I think the wiring will easily go past that.

Then along the rocker panel to that existing grommet for one wire and a new grommet for the other wire and into the cab.

It'll enter the cab where the right arrow is and go under that add-on piece, suitably modified, where the left arrow is. And it'll go up through the bottom of the storage unit right into the inverter.

What about shimming up the caddy 1/4"? That way you gain 1/4" for the inverter but can still use the trim holes and have 1/4" engagement.

As we discussed offline, the cable management/route plan sounds like a winner, especially with heavier gauge cable. The inner pinch weld already has some holes in it that might work for clamps with more being drilled if needed - I had to drill a few for my running boards here.

 

[Gary Lewis]

What about shimming up the caddy 1/4"? That way you gain 1/4" for the inverter but can still use the trim holes and have 1/4" engagement.

As we discussed offline, the cable management/route plan sounds like a winner, especially with heavier gauge cable. The inner pinch weld already has some holes in it that might work for clamps with more being drilled if needed - I had to drill a few for my running boards here.

Scott - I'll play with the height and see what it takes to use the original holes in the trim panel. I doubt 1/4" is going to make much difference on the inverter hitting the seat back.

On the cabling plan, glad to see someone agrees. A few insulated clamps screwed into the pinch weld, as we discussed, should hold the cable(s) nicely.

But I'm waffling on the need to run a dedicated ground for the inverter, so I'm looking for input. I have a #2 ground from each fender to the cab, a #2 ground from both batteries to their respective fenders, & #2 grounds from both batteries to the engine. So there's a really good ground path from the aux battery to the inverter via the cab, and it would be easier to just run the hot wire. But I don't want any interference problems.

So, what is the collective wisdom?

 

[kramttocs]

Scott - I'll play with the height and see what it takes to use the original holes in the trim panel. I doubt 1/4" is going to make much difference on the inverter hitting the seat back.

On the cabling plan, glad to see someone agrees. A few insulated clamps screwed into the pinch weld, as we discussed, should hold the cable(s) nicely.

But I'm waffling on the need to run a dedicated ground for the inverter, so I'm looking for input. I have a #2 ground from each fender to the cab, a #2 ground from both batteries to their respective fenders, & #2 grounds from both batteries to the engine. So there's a really good ground path from the aux battery to the inverter via the cab, and it would be easier to just run the hot wire. But I don't want any interference problems.

So, what is the collective wisdom?

How about a #2 cable going from the inverter to the frame via the same hole but on the passenger side?

Or even using that other hole we talked about (still on passenger side).