Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 Functionally I don't see a reason not to use the LG/Y circuit. Just my opinion, or maybe preference, but I'd keep them separate. I could say it comes down to separating add-ons from factory, future troubleshooting, or keeping vastly different things (lights-radio) off the same circuit....but really it's preference Scott - I understand what you are saying. And if was anything else I'd probably agree to find a spare fuse in the fuse block. But for something that can't pull more than ~2a and power is soooooo close...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Ok, question time. First, to everyone: Why feed power for the GMRS radio up? Why not use the constant power on the LG/Y wire that goes to the map lights, as shown in the pic below? That circuit is fused 15 amps, but the radio's own wiring has a 3A fuse in it. And all that circuit serves are the courtesy lights, dome light, cargo light, and warning buzzer. It would be so easy to use the original dome light wires to pick up constant power for the radio, switched power for the dome light, and a ground with a screw into the roof. Then I'll bring the speaker wires up the B-pillar 'cause the speakers are to the rear and it'll be easy. Thoughts, please. Now for Rob: Did your center speakers in the Highliner hit the roof? Mine do, as shown below. Also, how did you use the 4x4x2" blocks of foam that are called "baffles"? Directly behind the speakers? Did they tend to push the Highliner down due to their thickness? I know that when the 1/2" piece of foam is put in above the Highliner that it will bring it down a bit. Does that make the speakers clear? First, my vote was for using the B-pillar anyway and if you have a constant power source there already that makes it even easier. Mine only had the single switched power for the dome, so I had to pull up a constant and ignition source for the radio, as well as the new dome. I think I grounded both with screws by the original dome light as well. Anyway, sounds like a plan... As for the Highliner, I never did a 'dry' fit with the speakers, so I can't say for sure. I only brought the speakers in once the headliner was installed with the foam pad. And yes, I placed the 'baffles' directly behind the speakers, so there was plenty between the speakers and the roof. I imagine the headliner does get pushed away by the foam, but it was more a case of being pulled away by the speaker screws. It was a tight squeeze though. I mean my shoulders were aching. Pushing the speaker in there with one hand while trying to get a screw going with the other... Almost as annoying as the pan gasket, but not quite! Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Scott - I understand what you are saying. And if was anything else I'd probably agree to find a spare fuse in the fuse block. But for something that can't pull more than ~2a and power is soooooo close...... Just dawned on me, in this case it's closer to the factory setup than one would initially think. The digital radio draws its constant power from that circuit also I now remember being surprised by that when I was playing around with my Fuse Buddy. So aside from making sure to add that into the current load, I say you've got a winner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sac79 Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Nope. Just grilles. The picture they sent is shown below. I will have to space the grilles ~1/8" away from the Alpine speakers due to their piezo tweeters, but that's not a biggee. I'm wondering if this isn't a good use of true speaker baffles instead of those huge 4x4x2" foam blocks? At least they would ensure no contact between the magnet and the roof, thereby eliminating any rattles. Gary, I can guarantee you will have no rattles, at least not from the speakers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 Gary, I can guarantee you will have no rattles, at least not from the speakers... Ok guys, much ado about nothing. I put the 1/2" foam pad on top and then secured the Highliner with a bunch of the metal clips that go into the metal trim pieces. And I can push up on the speaker in the Highliner and it'll move w/o hitting the roof. I'm going to guess from what I can see that there's at least 1/4", meaning the foam is only half compressed. The Highliner will go up a bit when the metal trim and sun visors are installed, but not enough to cause the speaker to hit. But it just dawned on me that the LG/Y wire is "hot at all times". And since the radio is completely silent until someone breaks the squelch it would be very easy to leave it on. So I'm thinking that's a bad idea and I'd be a lot better off bringing switched power from the actual radio circuit up there. And, not placing the in-line fuse in the circuit that Midland sent as I don't want to have to dig into the Highliner to find it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Ok guys, much ado about nothing. I put the 1/2" foam pad on top and then secured the Highliner with a bunch of the metal clips that go into the metal trim pieces. And I can push up on the speaker in the Highliner and it'll move w/o hitting the roof. I'm going to guess from what I can see that there's at least 1/4", meaning the foam is only half compressed. The Highliner will go up a bit when the metal trim and sun visors are installed, but not enough to cause the speaker to hit. But it just dawned on me that the LG/Y wire is "hot at all times". And since the radio is completely silent until someone breaks the squelch it would be very easy to leave it on. So I'm thinking that's a bad idea and I'd be a lot better off bringing switched power from the actual radio circuit up there. And, not placing the in-line fuse in the circuit that Midland sent as I don't want to have to dig into the Highliner to find it. Oh, so the radio isn't like a stereo where it has the keyed 12v and a constant 12v? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 Oh, so the radio isn't like a stereo where it has the keyed 12v and a constant 12v? No, it only needs switched power. Apparently it stores settings in non-volatile memory. Ok, so the next decision: I checked and the 1/2" foam Palco sent is open cell. IOW, I can easily blow right through it. So it isn't going to stop sound, and probably not heat very well But I have plenty of the Noico RED 150 mil Сar Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner left, and I'm thinking that three layers of it will be .45" and, therefore, be a good replacement for the 1/2" foam. I've marked where the edges of the Highliner are, and I can mark where the foam currently ends, so that would give me plenty of guides to put the Noico stuff up there. I'm thinking one layer adhered to the Highliner & one layer adhered to the roof, and then I'll trial fit it again. And, what are the thoughts about the speaker baffles? Something like these, although I'm not sold as they'll take quite a while to get here. The big reason is that in the Highliner the driver's right speaker is right next to the passenger's left speaker so they'll bleed badly if precautions aren't taken. So I'm thinking of using those baffles and placing pieces of the 1/2" felt insulation I have left over between the baffles. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 .... But it just dawned on me that the LG/Y wire is "hot at all times". And since the radio is completely silent until someone breaks the squelch it would be very easy to leave it on. So I'm thinking that's a bad idea and I'd be a lot better off bringing switched power from the actual radio circuit up there.... I don't have much experience with a hard-wired 2-way radio. It's limited to a couple of trips back in the '90s when I had a CB in my CJ5. But I started off using switched power and ended up changing it to be unswitched. Yes, it wasn't ideal that the radio could be left on when you left the vehicle for an extended period of time. But for me it was a bigger problem to have the radio shut off when I shut the engine off to get out and spot the trail. If you had the modern alternative where it stayed on for ~10 minutes after shutting off the ignition that might be best. But then I wouldn't want it turning off when I opened the door. And who am I kidding? I hate all of those modern complexities. After all the babbling, if it was me I'd use unswitched power, but neither is ideal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 16, 2020 Author Share Posted November 16, 2020 .... But it just dawned on me that the LG/Y wire is "hot at all times". And since the radio is completely silent until someone breaks the squelch it would be very easy to leave it on. So I'm thinking that's a bad idea and I'd be a lot better off bringing switched power from the actual radio circuit up there.... I don't have much experience with a hard-wired 2-way radio. It's limited to a couple of trips back in the '90s when I had a CB in my CJ5. But I started off using switched power and ended up changing it to be unswitched. Yes, it wasn't ideal that the radio could be left on when you left the vehicle for an extended period of time. But for me it was a bigger problem to have the radio shut off when I shut the engine off to get out and spot the trail. If you had the modern alternative where it stayed on for ~10 minutes after shutting off the ignition that might be best. But then I wouldn't want it turning off when I opened the door. And who am I kidding? I hate all of those modern complexities. After all the babbling, if it was me I'd use unswitched power, but neither is ideal. Bob - That's a good point. But wouldn't turning to ACCY work? However, ACCY brings several things on, including the instrument cluster, radio (obviously), and most importantly the aux battery relay. I'm using the Cole Hersee smart isolator so the batteries really aren't paralleled then, but I'm going to use the original aux battery relay to power the inverter. However, there is supposed to be a switch in the radio bezel to turn it off. Still, there might be several things to turn off, so it would be far easier to have the GMRS radio hot all the time. Thoughts? As for the Highliner, I put a layer of the Noico insulation on it. Here 'tis: And, having marked where the Palco foam fit I put a layer of the sound insulation on the roof's inner panel. Then I put the Highliner in place and it fits. There may not be quite as much space between the speaker's magnet and the roof now as when I had the other foam in, but it doesn't touch so I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nothing Special Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Bob - That's a good point. But wouldn't turning to ACCY work?.... Yes and no. If you are in the middle of a conversation the radio will cut out and then come back on as the key goes through "off", which may or may not be an issue. And if you're not in the middle of a conversation you might forget to turn it to "accy". Which might not be an issue if you were getting out anyway. As I said, my experience was over 20 years ago. I don't remember exactly what my thoughts were. Just that I started with it switched and changed to have it unswitched. Not that I know you'd make the same call as me. Just bringing it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts