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Big Blue's Transformation


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Shaun - I didn't notice how close it was. Next time, tell me! :nabble_smiley_wink:

This is the first time I noticed. I found out with my Ranger, if any part of the battery sticks up past the mounting flange of the fender, you're probably gonna have a bad time. And it looks like the same applies here. You were obviously fine with 80-86 tray since the battery sat lower. But not on the 87-96 tray.

Let's see original battery for Darth, 1986 F350 460 is a

group 64, 11.7" long, 6.4" wide and 8.9" high, RH-POS,

group 65, 12.1" long, 7.5" wide and 7.6" high (I thought I remembered a reason the front brace wouldn't fit) LH-POS, which is 1987-97 and my Taurus and Mary's Flex

group 31, 13" long, 6.8" wide and 9.4" high LH-POS

Given that, you should only be 1/2" taller, but 1.3" or a little over 1 1/4" longer and .4" wider. I would bet the 1.3" longer is part of the problem. Are you still using the 1985 battery tray on the right side or a later one?

You may also need to make sure the battery is fully seated in the tray, not up on the edges. The reversal of the positive post is why the battery is also a problem the group 64 when installed has the positive post on the right side rear so it is far enough away to not touch. When I first put a group 65 in Darth, I had the positive right side front, but since it is 1.3" shorter than the group 64 there was no contact with the hood. When I got the cable set from Jim, I had already turned the battery around and everything hooked up like it was supposed to.

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Let's see original battery for Darth, 1986 F350 460 is a

group 64, 11.7" long, 6.4" wide and 8.9" high, RH-POS,

group 65, 12.1" long, 7.5" wide and 7.6" high (I thought I remembered a reason the front brace wouldn't fit) LH-POS, which is 1987-97 and my Taurus and Mary's Flex

group 31, 13" long, 6.8" wide and 9.4" high LH-POS

Given that, you should only be 1/2" taller, but 1.3" or a little over 1 1/4" longer and .4" wider. I would bet the 1.3" longer is part of the problem. Are you still using the 1985 battery tray on the right side or a later one?

You may also need to make sure the battery is fully seated in the tray, not up on the edges. The reversal of the positive post is why the battery is also a problem the group 64 when installed has the positive post on the right side rear so it is far enough away to not touch. When I first put a group 65 in Darth, I had the positive right side front, but since it is 1.3" shorter than the group 64 there was no contact with the hood. When I got the cable set from Jim, I had already turned the battery around and everything hooked up like it was supposed to.

I'm using the later battery tray on the right/passenger's side. And the battery is fully "seated" in the tray.

Speaking of the battery, it is 13" long, 6 3/4" wide, and 8" high to top of case and 9" to top of posts. But, as said, it is fully seated in the tray, so it isn't too long. It is mainly that the later tray sits slightly above the fender liner and not below, so the battery sits maybe 1/2" higher.

But by swapping it end-for-end , which places the negative post near the fender & hood, I think it'll be fine. However, I'll pull the battery again and see if there is any way to drop the tray a bit. Anything would help.

But the way the hood is shaped the positive post will be far from it after turning the battery. In fact, it appears that my battery hold down idea will also clear.

Looks like I'll start making new cables tomorrow.

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Ok, it must be Christmas in April. These L&L's came from Jet-Hot today:

Purdy! :nabble_smiley_good:

Thanks, David. :nabble_smiley_grin:

Ok, I have a question for y'all so I'll start with it and progress to the other.

Here's the mocked-up battery hold down, along with a lot of other work which we shall get to in due course. What do you think of the look? (I'm sure it'll be strong enough and it clears the hood as well, albeit just.)

I'm thinking of three options, but in all cases the ends will be neatly radiused and it'll be PC'd black:

1: Just as shown but cleaned up

2: With the ribs milled down roughly half way and PC'd black

3: With the flat of the channel milled out such that only the ribs cross the battery. This would let it sit down over the lip of the battery where the "step" is on the edge.

I think they are presented in increasingly attractive order, and the latter would look purpose-built whereas the thing now just looks like a chunk of channel that someone put under there. But I'd like your opinions.

Main_Battery_In_Place_with_Mocked_Up_Hold_Down.thumb.jpg.89be1c09352328f3ffc69f7e3044fa5c.jpg

As for the other things, the first one can be seen in the pic above - I swapped the battery around. And the second thing is also visible - a ground stud. It is straight behind the PDB on the fender just under the lip, and has the new 4 ga ground that comes off the battery going to it awa the previously existing grounds from the harness and from the PDB. It is a stainless 1/4-20 stud with nuts with toothed lock washers either side.

The last thing can also be seen in the above pic, sorta. But it is the new 2 ga ground cable that goes to the engine. And then from the engine there's another 2 ga ground going to the frame, but you can't see that in the pic. So here's a pic of both of them before installation and then in captivity:

New_Main_Battery_Ground_Cables.thumb.jpg.fc949dad9c89696f5762d5ac3232e2ff.jpgNew_Main_Battery_Ground_Cables_In_Place.thumb.jpg.165639b443baffab62820ee5f761b02e.jpg

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I'm using the later battery tray on the right/passenger's side. And the battery is fully "seated" in the tray.

Speaking of the battery, it is 13" long, 6 3/4" wide, and 8" high to top of case and 9" to top of posts. But, as said, it is fully seated in the tray, so it isn't too long. It is mainly that the later tray sits slightly above the fender liner and not below, so the battery sits maybe 1/2" higher.

But by swapping it end-for-end , which places the negative post near the fender & hood, I think it'll be fine. However, I'll pull the battery again and see if there is any way to drop the tray a bit. Anything would help.

But the way the hood is shaped the positive post will be far from it after turning the battery. In fact, it appears that my battery hold down idea will also clear.

Looks like I'll start making new cables tomorrow.

Just skimmed over the last few posts.

Just fyi - the offset holddown is for the aux battery not the main. The main is straight across.

Here is what came on my main 65:

http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=597

Part #302102

Works with the factory j hooks.

IMG_20200407_175240.thumb.jpg.c6d4f78e3ed35daedf44dabafa6f2b01.jpgIMG_20200407_175248.thumb.jpg.2cf3eada40047c3efba847f65e5dda7d.jpg

In order to avoid the c channel look on yours I'd flipped it over and notch it out to fit down over the battery a bit.

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Just skimmed over the last few posts.

Just fyi - the offset holddown is for the aux battery not the main. The main is straight across.

Here is what came on my main 65:

http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=597

Part #302102

Works with the factory j hooks.

In order to avoid the c channel look on yours I'd flipped it over and notch it out to fit down over the battery a bit.

That Quick Cable hold down would work on the main battery. But not on the aux battery. I think I'll try to make something that looks similar for both sides, although the aux will be angled, as you said.

I'd thought about flipping it as you suggested. But I think I like the dual ribs going across, tying the two ends together. I'm going to play with the mill a bit tomorrow and see what I come up with. :nabble_smiley_wink:

But thanks!

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Just skimmed over the last few posts.

Just fyi - the offset holddown is for the aux battery not the main. The main is straight across.

Here is what came on my main 65:

http://www.quickcable.com/products.php?pageId=597

Part #302102

Works with the factory j hooks.

In order to avoid the c channel look on yours I'd flipped it over and notch it out to fit down over the battery a bit.

Your cables look good Gary, and that battery will certainly not move with that holding it down. That's the best looking universal battery hold down that I've seen Scott. I went on E-Bay and ordered me one.

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Your cables look good Gary, and that battery will certainly not move with that holding it down. That's the best looking universal battery hold down that I've seen Scott. I went on E-Bay and ordered me one.

Nice! With Quick Cable you really can't go wrong. They make really nice quality stuff. The hold down is no exception.

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Your cables look good Gary, and that battery will certainly not move with that holding it down. That's the best looking universal battery hold down that I've seen Scott. I went on E-Bay and ordered me one.

Thanks, Frank. And I agree that the Quick Cable products are good. I just want something that sorta matches from one side to the other, and don't think I can do that with their stuff.

Here's a rough draft of what I'm talking about. The pic on the left shows where I'll mill the channel, and the one on the right shows it sitting on the battery.

Thoughts?

Main_Battery_Hold_Down_on_Battery.thumb.jpg.b49b14f8314199c388966af3346b2abc.jpgMain_Battery_Hold_Down_with_Dashed_Lines.thumb.jpg.6d0cacef7523ed86257c1290e8cfbf1e.jpg

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http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n55977/Main_Battery_In_Place_with_Mocked_Up_Hold_Down.jpg

Any concern with using the studs instead of the post terminals? I heard once that you shouldn't hook a winch to the stud terminals, that they can't handle the heat from that much current. I have no idea if that's true, all I'm saying is that I heard it once, and I'm wondering what you or others have heard.

 

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