Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

4 pins makes sense, start and reverse lamps.

Yep, it is a 4-pin connector. And I found it.

But, I may have erred. I tried pulling the connector apart, to no avail, and then realized that I should have been testing the connection while I was working on it. So I checked, and sure enough it was working. However, I realized that I have to turn the key all the way, and it is possible that I wasn't yesterday. So now it is working and I can't get it to fail.

But, I did check everything out and the PDB is fully functional. Oh yes, I rewired the blower relay so it is powered off the key-on relay and the relay doesn't come on until you turn the key on.

Tomorrow I'm going to check out all of the wiring running down the frame as the convolute is toast, literally. Several pieces crumbled when I pulled on them, and I'm sure that's from all the heat off the headers. So I'll replace that and make sure there aren't any breaks along the way.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get a connector apart? Even with the tabs lifted it won't budge.

[kramttocs]

Yep, it is a 4-pin connector. And I found it.

But, I may have erred. I tried pulling the connector apart, to no avail, and then realized that I should have been testing the connection while I was working on it. So I checked, and sure enough it was working. However, I realized that I have to turn the key all the way, and it is possible that I wasn't yesterday. So now it is working and I can't get it to fail.

But, I did check everything out and the PDB is fully functional. Oh yes, I rewired the blower relay so it is powered off the key-on relay and the relay doesn't come on until you turn the key on.

Tomorrow I'm going to check out all of the wiring running down the frame as the convolute is toast, literally. Several pieces crumbled when I pulled on them, and I'm sure that's from all the heat off the headers. So I'll replace that and make sure there aren't any breaks along the way.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get a connector apart? Even with the tabs lifted it won't budge.

On those molded ones like that one that say Pull Apart, I don't hold back. I've yet to break a tab and this includes pulling them apart in a freezing junkyard. So I say go for it but guard your elbows and knuckles.

 

[Gary Lewis]

On those molded ones like that one that say Pull Apart, I don't hold back. I've yet to break a tab and this includes pulling them apart in a freezing junkyard. So I say go for it but guard your elbows and knuckles.

I'll give it a try tomorrow, Scott. As I said, I need to inspect every inch of that wiring, so want to get the connectors apart, cleaned, and put back together. And all of the run protected in new convolute.

[Gary Lewis]

I'll give it a try tomorrow, Scott. As I said, I need to inspect every inch of that wiring, so want to get the connectors apart, cleaned, and put back together. And all of the run protected in new convolute.

I didn't get to that connector today. After adding the 1980 owner's guide to the site I added the headlight wires to the PDB, which let me put the bottom plate on it and mount it to the fender. Then I grouped the wires, removed the vacuum reservoir and routed the wires around it, etc.

I haven't put the final tape wraps nor convolute on, but wanted to position everything before doing that. So, this happened:

It isn't really mounted, but is in place so I can figure out where to run the wires. And here's how I ran them today - above the battery tray using the factory tie points. But I don't like that so will probably run the wires below the battery tray as there's a nice opening below the tray where the fender liner curves down.

[1986F150Six]

I didn't get to that connector today. After adding the 1980 owner's guide to the site I added the headlight wires to the PDB, which let me put the bottom plate on it and mount it to the fender. Then I grouped the wires, removed the vacuum reservoir and routed the wires around it, etc.

I haven't put the final tape wraps nor convolute on, but wanted to position everything before doing that. So, this happened:

It isn't really mounted, but is in place so I can figure out where to run the wires. And here's how I ran them today - above the battery tray using the factory tie points. But I don't like that so will probably run the wires below the battery tray as there's a nice opening below the tray where the fender liner curves down.

Amazing work, Gary!

[Gary Lewis]

Amazing work, Gary!

Thanks, David!

Now that I know how I want to route the wires I think I'll pull the radiator support so I can step into the engine compartment and finish routing/taping/convoluting/securing the wiring near the blower and going into the PDB.

Next would be to put the starter on and run its wiring and secure it.

Then I can truly install the radiator support and route the wiring across it, install the aux battery tray and the smart battery isolator, etc.

[1986F150Six]

Thanks, David!

Now that I know how I want to route the wires I think I'll pull the radiator support so I can step into the engine compartment and finish routing/taping/convoluting/securing the wiring near the blower and going into the PDB.

Next would be to put the starter on and run its wiring and secure it.

Then I can truly install the radiator support and route the wiring across it, install the aux battery tray and the smart battery isolator, etc.

And, in the not too distant future, fire up that monster!

[85lebaront2]

I didn't get to that connector today. After adding the 1980 owner's guide to the site I added the headlight wires to the PDB, which let me put the bottom plate on it and mount it to the fender. Then I grouped the wires, removed the vacuum reservoir and routed the wires around it, etc.

I haven't put the final tape wraps nor convolute on, but wanted to position everything before doing that. So, this happened:

It isn't really mounted, but is in place so I can figure out where to run the wires. And here's how I ran them today - above the battery tray using the factory tie points. But I don't like that so will probably run the wires below the battery tray as there's a nice opening below the tray where the fender liner curves down.

Gary, I looked at Darth's alternator and it is clocked to get the stud out away from the head. What I have found, if with the 3 bolts out you get a screwdriver blade under the edge of the stator core where the bolts were and pry a little at each of the three locations the stator and rear housing will come loose. Just remove the regulator/brush assembly before doing it.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I looked at Darth's alternator and it is clocked to get the stud out away from the head. What I have found, if with the 3 bolts out you get a screwdriver blade under the edge of the stator core where the bolts were and pry a little at each of the three locations the stator and rear housing will come loose. Just remove the regulator/brush assembly before doing it.

David - I don't think starting it is going to be all that soon. With the grandtwins coming in about 10 days I think I'm going to be having fun other ways.

Bill - I think I'm going to call this clocking "good enough". It seems to fit the wiring that came with it nicely, and it makes it easy - I'll tell my kids it is a '95/'96 truck.

As for what I did today, I got the PDB's wiring all buttoned/taped/zip tied up. Here's an overall shot and you can see that I backed up on what I said yesterday - the wiring goes above the battery tray. Turned out that the side marker light wiring isn't long enough to go down there, and I wanted to keep it in the bundle.

However, I'm a bit worried that the huge battery will need to go back against the bundle, so I need to get the radiator bolted in and that will let me set the battery in place and find out. If that happens I'll lengthen the wires to the side marker light wires - at the same time I lengthen the turn signal lights, which I just discovered are too short.

And, speaking of the huge battery, I've been worried that it will be too much for the tray. But then I noticed in the MPC that there's a brace, as shown below:

So, I'm thinking I need to find one of them. Or, make something that will go from the frame to the tray. Thoughts?

[kramttocs]

David - I don't think starting it is going to be all that soon. With the grandtwins coming in about 10 days I think I'm going to be having fun other ways.

Bill - I think I'm going to call this clocking "good enough". It seems to fit the wiring that came with it nicely, and it makes it easy - I'll tell my kids it is a '95/'96 truck.

As for what I did today, I got the PDB's wiring all buttoned/taped/zip tied up. Here's an overall shot and you can see that I backed up on what I said yesterday - the wiring goes above the battery tray. Turned out that the side marker light wiring isn't long enough to go down there, and I wanted to keep it in the bundle.

However, I'm a bit worried that the huge battery will need to go back against the bundle, so I need to get the radiator bolted in and that will let me set the battery in place and find out. If that happens I'll lengthen the wires to the side marker light wires - at the same time I lengthen the turn signal lights, which I just discovered are too short.

And, speaking of the huge battery, I've been worried that it will be too much for the tray. But then I noticed in the MPC that there's a brace, as shown below:

So, I'm thinking I need to find one of them. Or, make something that will go from the frame to the tray. Thoughts?

Looking great!

Will definitely want that brace. Don't have a late model one to look at but does the 80-86 one that came with BB fit or are they too different?

For the side marker light wiring - are you planning to eventually do the DRL-1 module addition from Daniel Stern? If so you'll be cutting that wiring anyways so I'd throw in a connector of your choosing on there and you'll be ahead of the game