Big Blue's Transformation

[Nothing Special]

.... I hope to not have to do this again. I'm going to clean the spindles and knuckles up very well and then paint them with anti-seize before re-installing them.

That's the right solution! (unfortunately you can't use this solution until you have it apart) In the past year or so I've taken the spindles off both my Bronco and my F-250. In both cases I was the one that put them on and that was 5 - 10 years earlier. Both came off by hand.

 

[Gary Lewis]

.... I hope to not have to do this again. I'm going to clean the spindles and knuckles up very well and then paint them with anti-seize before re-installing them.

That's the right solution! (unfortunately you can't use this solution until you have it apart) In the past year or so I've taken the spindles off both my Bronco and my F-250. In both cases I was the one that put them on and that was 5 - 10 years earlier. Both came off by hand.

Good to know, Bob.

I watched a Youtube about taking D60 spindles off, and it was obviously not rehearsed. The guy explained that getting them off can be a real bear, and that the first approach is to hit the end of the spindle with a mallet to work it out. So he hit the end of the spindle and it fell off in his hands. Boy, was he surprised!

Unfortunately mine didn't quite come off that easily.

So, what do you think about the electric shift idea and the cable question?

[Nothing Special]

.... So, what do you think about the electric shift idea and the cable question?

As you know, I chose the integrated air actuator and have been very happy with that choice in the limited time I've had it.

If I didn't have on-board air and was installing it in an early Bronco, or Jeep CJ, I think I'd go with the manual cable. But if I was doing that in a more modern vehicle (like an '85 F-250 ) where it would be harder to find a place to mount the lever, then I think I'd go with the electric.

I really don't think any of them are bad options. They all have their good and bad points with respect to mounting the valve/lever/switch and routing the cable/air line.

Oh, and on the cable question, I don't think there's any way to know how long you need until you're ready to mount stuff up. So I'd look into either not getting the cable at all until you're ready, or else finding out if they will take it back in exchange when you do know what you need.

[Gary Lewis]

.... So, what do you think about the electric shift idea and the cable question?

As you know, I chose the integrated air actuator and have been very happy with that choice in the limited time I've had it.

If I didn't have on-board air and was installing it in an early Bronco, or Jeep CJ, I think I'd go with the manual cable. But if I was doing that in a more modern vehicle (like an '85 F-250 ) where it would be harder to find a place to mount the lever, then I think I'd go with the electric.

I really don't think any of them are bad options. They all have their good and bad points with respect to mounting the valve/lever/switch and routing the cable/air line.

Oh, and on the cable question, I don't think there's any way to know how long you need until you're ready to mount stuff up. So I'd look into either not getting the cable at all until you're ready, or else finding out if they will take it back in exchange when you do know what you need.

Thanks, Bob. The idea of swapping the cable is what I'm hoping to discuss with them tomorrow.

[Steve83]

...root canal at 8 in the morning...

...I'm hoping to discuss with them tomorrow.

I keep hearing Bill Cosby doing his bit about "I-b-b-b cab-b-b-b feeb-b-b-le my-b-b-b feb-b-b-th."

[grumpin]

...root canal at 8 in the morning...

...I'm hoping to discuss with them tomorrow.

I keep hearing Bill Cosby doing his bit about "I-b-b-b cab-b-b-b feeb-b-b-le my-b-b-b feb-b-b-th."

 

[Gary Lewis]

...root canal at 8 in the morning...

...I'm hoping to discuss with them tomorrow.

I keep hearing Bill Cosby doing his bit about "I-b-b-b cab-b-b-b feeb-b-b-le my-b-b-b feb-b-b-th."

Yeah, well maybe the juxtaposition of those two things isn't quite the best.

But maybe later today I can talk?

Anyway, that was a good skit.

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, well maybe the juxtaposition of those two things isn't quite the best.

But maybe later today I can talk?

Anyway, that was a good skit.

Well, although I was in the chair for 4 1/2 hours, I got home at 12:30 and went out to the shop as I felt pretty good. However, Jim has already pointed out that whatever anesthetic they used probably hasn't worn off, so I may hit a wall later.

And I called OX and talked to Chip. He suggested that I should go with a 48" cable as that's what they sell to most of the Ford guys. But, if I want a longer, like 58", or shorter, like 36", then I can return that one to get the other if it hasn't been used. However, he thinks it'll be a lot easier to figure out where to put the shift unit if I have it in my hand.

Then I set up delivery of the D60 to Boom's Garage for Thursday morning. That means I have to get everything off the frame and it as well as all the parts out of the way and then load the D60 in Blue. Steve/FoxFord33 is coming over Wednesday and will help me load it. So that means I have to get a few things done.

Given that, I drilled and chiseled the rivets out of the LH sway bar bracket. Then I turned to the recalcitrant rear spring eye bolt, but that didn't go well as even though the ball joint press was able to move the bolt some I couldn't get it to come out. I suspect the metal sleeve, to which the bolt is rusted, is folding up inside the rubber bushing. So in the end I removed the two bolts and drilled out the four rivets holding the rear spring perch to the frame and got the spring off. And if I need it in the future I'll set the rubber bushing on fire and get it out that way.

Anyway, everything that I think I could possibly want, with the exception of the patch out of the cross member, is off the frame at this point. And here's what the shop looks like - a mess. Tomorrow is clean-up time!

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, although I was in the chair for 4 1/2 hours, I got home at 12:30 and went out to the shop as I felt pretty good. However, Jim has already pointed out that whatever anesthetic they used probably hasn't worn off, so I may hit a wall later.

And I called OX and talked to Chip. He suggested that I should go with a 48" cable as that's what they sell to most of the Ford guys. But, if I want a longer, like 58", or shorter, like 36", then I can return that one to get the other if it hasn't been used. However, he thinks it'll be a lot easier to figure out where to put the shift unit if I have it in my hand.

Then I set up delivery of the D60 to Boom's Garage for Thursday morning. That means I have to get everything off the frame and it as well as all the parts out of the way and then load the D60 in Blue. Steve/FoxFord33 is coming over Wednesday and will help me load it. So that means I have to get a few things done.

Given that, I drilled and chiseled the rivets out of the LH sway bar bracket. Then I turned to the recalcitrant rear spring eye bolt, but that didn't go well as even though the ball joint press was able to move the bolt some I couldn't get it to come out. I suspect the metal sleeve, to which the bolt is rusted, is folding up inside the rubber bushing. So in the end I removed the two bolts and drilled out the four rivets holding the rear spring perch to the frame and got the spring off. And if I need it in the future I'll set the rubber bushing on fire and get it out that way.

Anyway, everything that I think I could possibly want, with the exception of the patch out of the cross member, is off the frame at this point. And here's what the shop looks like - a mess. Tomorrow is clean-up time!

One technique I use for getting bushings out without setting it on fire and making a lot of nasty smoke is to walk a drill around and around the rubber bushing.

1/4" bit or a little more. Plunge 3/4 - 1" and let it chew through it. Then a bit deeper, again and again.

It goes fast and really eats its way through.

Check some videos for technique.

Mustang guys use this on control arms all the time.

*Edit one of MANY :.

 

[Gary Lewis]

One technique I use for getting bushings out without setting it on fire and making a lot of nasty smoke is to walk a drill around and around the rubber bushing.

1/4" bit or a little more. Plunge 3/4 - 1" and let it chew through it. Then a bit deeper, again and again.

It goes fast and really eats its way through.

Check some videos for technique.

Mustang guys use this on control arms all the time.

*Edit one of MANY :.

Good idea! I'll give that a try. Thanks.