Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, doghouse is the truck front clip, with it removed, as you know getting at most of the engine is much easier.

You still need the takeout from the turn signal wiring for the cruise control and the horn relay.

I was cogitating on the air intake system, and wondering if I could shorten the hose from MAF to the wye and use the modified air box as I think it flowed better.

Ahhh! Now I see, said the blind man!

And yes, it might be easiest to use the C305A harness, w/o all of the speed control stuff, to get the three wires from the horn pad. And I have plenty of those harnii, so I might as well.

On the air flow, I'd be surprised if the box is more restrictive than the air cleaner itself. And I wonder how that air flow rating compares with the throttle bodies.

I'm cogitating on how to insulate the "cold" air intake as well as the hoses after the MAF sensor to keep the air as cool as possible in the heat of summer.

[Gary Lewis]

Ahhh! Now I see, said the blind man!

And yes, it might be easiest to use the C305A harness, w/o all of the speed control stuff, to get the three wires from the horn pad. And I have plenty of those harnii, so I might as well.

On the air flow, I'd be surprised if the box is more restrictive than the air cleaner itself. And I wonder how that air flow rating compares with the throttle bodies.

I'm cogitating on how to insulate the "cold" air intake as well as the hoses after the MAF sensor to keep the air as cool as possible in the heat of summer.

As I think about it, with all the problems I had with C305 and C305A due to the mis-matched harnii I think I'll modify the one that that is in there as it is known to work. I don't want to have to go back through that again.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I should have said that I'm not planning on having a downstream sensor. It is turned off in the ECU.

And yes, I had gone back to the previous discussions of where #11 is vs #21. But thanks for confirming that. Also, thanks for the locations of C1025 & C1028. I'll try to put mine in rough the same locations. Plus, the pictures help a bunch.

Given that, I ordered the 24" extensions as I'm pretty sure they'll work.

So now I think that all I'm missing is the MAF sensor. And I cannot find the Motorcraft unit I'm looking for, which is the F5OF unit that would be stock.

Here are the #'s you provided, as well as their CFM rating at 5.00 volts. So I'm looking for one of these in a Motorcraft brand. Anyone finds one please let me know.

• F8LF-12B579-AA: 598 CFM

• XL3F-12B579-BA: 582 CFM

• F50F-12B579-AA: 541 CFM

Well, that's interesting! David found a JAGUAR OEM MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR MAF MODULE UNIT, which is PN XL3F-12B579-BA and looks like the one below. I think it is used as I see paint pen lettering peeking out at the bottom of the pic, but for $14 delivered I couldn't go wrong so I ordered it.

However, the new Cardone MAF sensor is due in today and the Dorman thermostat housing came in last night. So since I have powder coating stuff laid out in the shop I'm going to go ahead and PC the aluminum MAF casting and the thermostat housing & bung plugs today. That way I can put the PC stuff away and have everything ready to go.

[85lebaront2]

Well, that's interesting! David found a JAGUAR OEM MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR MAF MODULE UNIT, which is PN XL3F-12B579-BA and looks like the one below. I think it is used as I see paint pen lettering peeking out at the bottom of the pic, but for $14 delivered I couldn't go wrong so I ordered it.

However, the new Cardone MAF sensor is due in today and the Dorman thermostat housing came in last night. So since I have powder coating stuff laid out in the shop I'm going to go ahead and PC the aluminum MAF casting and the thermostat housing & bung plugs today. That way I can put the PC stuff away and have everything ready to go.

Now all you need is the MAF transfer table for it.

[Gary Lewis]

Now all you need is the MAF transfer table for it.

 

I thought we had that. No?

 

And this is one of the units with the IAT sensor in it. Right?

 

[85lebaront2]

Now all you need is the MAF transfer table for it.

 

I thought we had that. No?

 

And this is one of the units with the IAT sensor in it. Right?

 

Yes we do have it, no it is not one with the IAT in it, that is the YC2F-12B579-BA, 2003 5.4L among others. The XL3F-12B579-BA is the one I got from PNP from a V10 Excursion. The YC2F-12B579-BA was the last data I added that needs to by incorporated into the graph.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes we do have it, no it is not one with the IAT in it, that is the YC2F-12B579-BA, 2003 5.4L among others. The XL3F-12B579-BA is the one I got from PNP from a V10 Excursion. The YC2F-12B579-BA was the last data I added that needs to by incorporated into the graph.

Bill - It is interesting that it doesn't have the IAT in it. Then why does it have the "E" and "F" connections?

And on a different subject, I pulled the speed control harness this morning, and ran into some anomalies:

First, someone had tapped into the harness for power to the AFR meter. Don't know who that might have been (), but I suspect I can find another source of switched power for it.

Next, someone had tapped into the Brake On/Off (BOO) LG wire, and I'm not sure where it goes - yet. But I suspect I can sort that as well.

Last, I also added a relay in parallel to the factory horn relay, as discussed in this post. The issue was that the speed control uses the factory relay in some fashion and replacing it with a Bosch relay didn't work. And I wanted the security system to be able to honk the horn so added the one shown in the drawing below to do that.

And, as luck would have it, adding that functionality to the '96 harness will be easy. Note the DB wire going to Keyless Entry in the schematic from the '96 EVTM below. I'll change that to "Security System" and file that page in the new Big Blue's Documentation folder.

[85lebaront2]

Bill - It is interesting that it doesn't have the IAT in it. Then why does it have the "E" and "F" connections?

And on a different subject, I pulled the speed control harness this morning, and ran into some anomalies:

First, someone had tapped into the harness for power to the AFR meter. Don't know who that might have been (), but I suspect I can find another source of switched power for it.

Next, someone had tapped into the Brake On/Off (BOO) LG wire, and I'm not sure where it goes - yet. But I suspect I can sort that as well.

Last, I also added a relay in parallel to the factory horn relay, as discussed in this post. The issue was that the speed control uses the factory relay in some fashion and replacing it with a Bosch relay didn't work. And I wanted the security system to be able to honk the horn so added the one shown in the drawing below to do that.

And, as luck would have it, adding that functionality to the '96 harness will be easy. Note the DB wire going to Keyless Entry in the schematic from the '96 EVTM below. I'll change that to "Security System" and file that page in the new Big Blue's Documentation folder.

Because it is a standardized connection, easier for Ford to build it even if the pins aren't there. If you were to connect one with the built in IAT sensor to a harness that isn't wired for it and uses a separate sensor, the system would still use the separate sensor. If you were to connect a non sensor containing MAF to a harness wired for the MAF mounted IAT then the EEC would promptly illuminate the MIL as it would be missing a needed piece of information.

[Gary Lewis]

Because it is a standardized connection, easier for Ford to build it even if the pins aren't there. If you were to connect one with the built in IAT sensor to a harness that isn't wired for it and uses a separate sensor, the system would still use the separate sensor. If you were to connect a non sensor containing MAF to a harness wired for the MAF mounted IAT then the EEC would promptly illuminate the MIL as it would be missing a needed piece of information.

Bill - That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

But, I have another question for you. In the 1985 EVTM, left below, the "common rail" of the horn pad switches goes to ground. But in the 1996 EVTM, right below, it is a separate wire and goes to the speed control module as the "return". Did you just ground that line and use ground as the "common"?

As for what I did today, I did two things. First, I powder coated the MAF casting, the attaching nuts, the new thermostat housing, and the plugs that came with it:

I was particularly pleased with the way that casting came out, so here's a pic of it before blasting and then one after both blasting and PC'ing:

Next, as said previously I pulled the speed control harness out, inc both C305A's. I think I have it mostly figured out and labeled. For instance, the plug in the middle goes to the clutch switch's connector and the open wire will go to the ECU and speed control module as Brake On/Off (BOO). And the W/P wire will supply switched power to the AFR meter.

But I'm not yet sure what I'm going to do with the three wires to the horn relay plug. Pretty sure I can actually do away with both of the yellow wires as the horn relay in the PDB will have power and I'll take its output on to the horns. But the wire that is supposed to be Dark Blue is Tan. And there's an unused DB/R. So I have a bit more study to do to make sure I'm looking at this correctly. And I'll need to refer back to this post as there's a spreadsheet there that supposedly maps the female C305 from the dash harness to the male C305A then to the female C305A and finally to the male C305 to the steering column.

[85lebaront2]

Bill - That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

But, I have another question for you. In the 1985 EVTM, left below, the "common rail" of the horn pad switches goes to ground. But in the 1996 EVTM, right below, it is a separate wire and goes to the speed control module as the "return". Did you just ground that line and use ground as the "common"?

As for what I did today, I did two things. First, I powder coated the MAF casting, the attaching nuts, the new thermostat housing, and the plugs that came with it:

I was particularly pleased with the way that casting came out, so here's a pic of it before blasting and then one after both blasting and PC'ing:

Next, as said previously I pulled the speed control harness out, inc both C305A's. I think I have it mostly figured out and labeled. For instance, the plug in the middle goes to the clutch switch's connector and the open wire will go to the ECU and speed control module as Brake On/Off (BOO). And the W/P wire will supply switched power to the AFR meter.

But I'm not yet sure what I'm going to do with the three wires to the horn relay plug. Pretty sure I can actually do away with both of the yellow wires as the horn relay in the PDB will have power and I'll take its output on to the horns. But the wire that is supposed to be Dark Blue is Tan. And there's an unused DB/R. So I have a bit more study to do to make sure I'm looking at this correctly. And I'll need to refer back to this post as there's a spreadsheet there that supposedly maps the female C305 from the dash harness to the male C305A then to the female C305A and finally to the male C305 to the steering column.

Gary, what I did won't help you. I have a 1996 column in Darth. As a result my wiring is the 1996 wiring. The wiring in the horn pad is the same and I believe if you check the electronic cruise you will find that the DG/O is a ground (speed control switch return) LB/BK is your "to speed control" that was the amplifier signal and DB of course is to the horn relay (which in 1985 was only used with speed control). In trying to dig up some other wiring possibilities, I found on a 1996 Thunderbird a "brake overtravel switch" which was a mechanical equivalent of the hydraulic switch. It was apparently in case of a brake system problem, but they were also on ABS systems.