Big Blue's Transformation

[Gary Lewis]

Bruce - We actually have a fulfillment center in Tulsa, about 20 miles as the crow flies from our house. So I'm sure that plays into us being able to get things quickly.

Dane - I'm sure that you've noticed by now that I like pictures. I like to document what I'm doing for a number of reasons, including the ability to go back and find out what I did as well as to realize I've done a lot to this truck. So I'm sure to document the antenna installation.

Time for an update as I just got this in from Midland:

Hi Gary Lewis,

Great timing Gary! They will be in the first of next week and will ship out the same day. I will send an update and tracking when shipped . Again, sorry for the delay.

Best regards,

Andrea

So, that means I'll be able to use the PL259 connector that is on the RG58 that comes with the MXTA51 magnetic base to run from the radio to the SO239 in the back of the cab. However, it also means I need another PL259 to graft onto the RG58 on the magnetic base. So I ordered 4 of them from Amazon for $9. (Anyone need PL259's?)

Also, I discovered that the Amphenol SO239 shown in the pic below doesn't have the tabbed washer onto which you solder the shield, so I ordered 4 more SO239 bulkhead connectors that do from Amazon for $9. But the difference is that the 4 from Amazon are front mount and I want rear mount, so I paid ~$25 inc shipping for that special one, only to find it doesn't have the tabbed washer for the sheath.

And speaking of that special connector, it wasn't completely sealed front/rear. So I used liquid tape to seal the back of it, which seems to have done the trick. For reference, lacquer thinner is the stuff to use to thin that liquid tape just a bit so it'll flow into the cracks and crevices.

[Gary Lewis]

Time for an update as I just got this in from Midland:

Hi Gary Lewis,

Great timing Gary! They will be in the first of next week and will ship out the same day. I will send an update and tracking when shipped . Again, sorry for the delay.

Best regards,

Andrea

So, that means I'll be able to use the PL259 connector that is on the RG58 that comes with the MXTA51 magnetic base to run from the radio to the SO239 in the back of the cab. However, it also means I need another PL259 to graft onto the RG58 on the magnetic base. So I ordered 4 of them from Amazon for $9. (Anyone need PL259's?)

Also, I discovered that the Amphenol SO239 shown in the pic below doesn't have the tabbed washer onto which you solder the shield, so I ordered 4 more SO239 bulkhead connectors that do from Amazon for $9. But the difference is that the 4 from Amazon are front mount and I want rear mount, so I paid ~$25 inc shipping for that special one, only to find it doesn't have the tabbed washer for the sheath.

And speaking of that special connector, it wasn't completely sealed front/rear. So I used liquid tape to seal the back of it, which seems to have done the trick. For reference, lacquer thinner is the stuff to use to thin that liquid tape just a bit so it'll flow into the cracks and crevices.

Got the tabbed washers, as well as the SO239 connectors they were with, in the mail today. Now I just need the stuff from Midland and I can finish the antenna installation.

So I turned to the bent step bar bracket on the driver's side rear. Took the step bar off and discovered that straightening that bracket wasn't as easy as expected. But with the press, then a whole lot of heat and a big hammer I got it acceptable.

Tomorrow I'll design the upgrade to the rear brackets. Spent some time thinking about it today, but it isn't going to be as easy as expected since the bolt that holds the bar to the bracket is in the way of my planned use of a piece of angle. But, there are other options.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the tabbed washers, as well as the SO239 connectors they were with, in the mail today. Now I just need the stuff from Midland and I can finish the antenna installation.

So I turned to the bent step bar bracket on the driver's side rear. Took the step bar off and discovered that straightening that bracket wasn't as easy as expected. But with the press, then a whole lot of heat and a big hammer I got it acceptable.

Tomorrow I'll design the upgrade to the rear brackets. Spent some time thinking about it today, but it isn't going to be as easy as expected since the bolt that holds the bar to the bracket is in the way of my planned use of a piece of angle. But, there are other options.

Got the PL259 connectors in today, so I'm ready to shorten the RG58 coax on the magnetic antenna mount when it comes in from Midland.

And I did a bit more straightening on the step bar bracket and then cut a 2 1/2 x 5 1/2" piece of 3/16" steel out of a piece of 3" square tubing. Oddly enough, the piece I cut out was bowed significantly, endwise. I straightened it in the press, but I was surprised that it had that much bow in it when the piece of tubing was nice and straight.

Anyway, I beveled that piece of steel as well as the bracket and welded the piece onto the side of the bracket to close it up. I didn't take a pic, but just imagine the bracket below with a plate enclosing the side that is open towards is in the pic.

As for the piece of angle drawn in red, it'll have to be turned 180 degrees and be welded between the front and rear plates. And it'll be drilled to take a bolt that will go into the piece of square tubing that goes off to the right.

I hope to get that bracket done tomorrow and possibly start on the front bracket for the left side. It, too, needs beefing up. Then when that's done I'll do the same for the right side brackets and powder coat all of them before re-installing them.

[Gary Lewis]

Got the PL259 connectors in today, so I'm ready to shorten the RG58 coax on the magnetic antenna mount when it comes in from Midland.

And I did a bit more straightening on the step bar bracket and then cut a 2 1/2 x 5 1/2" piece of 3/16" steel out of a piece of 3" square tubing. Oddly enough, the piece I cut out was bowed significantly, endwise. I straightened it in the press, but I was surprised that it had that much bow in it when the piece of tubing was nice and straight.

Anyway, I beveled that piece of steel as well as the bracket and welded the piece onto the side of the bracket to close it up. I didn't take a pic, but just imagine the bracket below with a plate enclosing the side that is open towards is in the pic.

As for the piece of angle drawn in red, it'll have to be turned 180 degrees and be welded between the front and rear plates. And it'll be drilled to take a bolt that will go into the piece of square tubing that goes off to the right.

I hope to get that bracket done tomorrow and possibly start on the front bracket for the left side. It, too, needs beefing up. Then when that's done I'll do the same for the right side brackets and powder coat all of them before re-installing them.

The Midland magnetic mount base came in, and it does indeed use RG58 coax. So I'm good to go as I'll screw the connector shown into the radio, cut the coax about 4' back and solder it to my bulkhead-mount female connector (SO239) and mount it in the back of the cab. Then I'll put the base in the middle of the roof and cut the coax and install the male connector (PL259) and we will be in business.

Also, I got the LR step bar mount beefed up today. I'll get better pics as I go, but here's a shot of it from the bottom and you can see the new plate on the left, the piece of angle that is welded between the left and right sides, and the bolt that goes through the angle into the 3" square tubing.

And in these two pics you can see the difference. On the right is the original right rear bracket with the open side on the front. And what you can't see is that it is held to the piece of 3" square tubing by one 1/2" bolt at the top.

But on the left is the modified left bracket with its new plate that boxes the 3" square tubing in, and the piece of angle that provides a place for the 1/2" bottom bolt that goes up into the tubing.

Which appears stronger?

[grumpin]

The Midland magnetic mount base came in, and it does indeed use RG58 coax. So I'm good to go as I'll screw the connector shown into the radio, cut the coax about 4' back and solder it to my bulkhead-mount female connector (SO239) and mount it in the back of the cab. Then I'll put the base in the middle of the roof and cut the coax and install the male connector (PL259) and we will be in business.

Also, I got the LR step bar mount beefed up today. I'll get better pics as I go, but here's a shot of it from the bottom and you can see the new plate on the left, the piece of angle that is welded between the left and right sides, and the bolt that goes through the angle into the 3" square tubing.

And in these two pics you can see the difference. On the right is the original right rear bracket with the open side on the front. And what you can't see is that it is held to the piece of 3" square tubing by one 1/2" bolt at the top.

But on the left is the modified left bracket with its new plate that boxes the 3" square tubing in, and the piece of angle that provides a place for the 1/2" bottom bolt that goes up into the tubing.

Which appears stronger?

The antenna looks good. Nice work on your step!

[Gary Lewis]

The antenna looks good. Nice work on your step!

Thanks, Dane.

What I didn't say is how I'm beefing up another part of the rear mount. The 3" square tubing I mentioned is welded to a 1/4" plate that is attached to the truck in two places:

• The rear spring's front pivot bolt comes through the plate in the middle of the square tubing.

• A 6" long 5/8" diameter piece of all-thread attaches to the frame on one end and through the top of the 1/4" plate on the other end.

That arrangement has worked well since when you step on the bar the all-thread is in tension. However I've realized that if there were to be upward pressure on the bar the all-thread would be in compression, and it might bend. So today I bought some pipe with 5/8" ID and I'll cut pieces of it and slip over the all-thread. That will provide a lot more support in case there is upward pressure on the mounts.

Also, I've found some corrosion starting on the mounts. So I'm going to do several things to prevent corrosion. First, all of the mount hardware will be powder coated. And I'll spray the inside of the aluminum step bars with FluidFilm. And I'll lube all of the fasteners with anti-seize. Plus I'll spray the inside of the pipe spacers & all-thread with fluid film. But the design of the step bars, which have a plastic spacer between the ends of the bars and the mounts, creates a fairly positive seal - meaning it'll hold moisture in. So I'll put a slot in the bottom of the end of the tube so the moisture can get out.

I hope that means the mounts and bars will be around for a good, long time.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Dane.

What I didn't say is how I'm beefing up another part of the rear mount. The 3" square tubing I mentioned is welded to a 1/4" plate that is attached to the truck in two places:

• The rear spring's front pivot bolt comes through the plate in the middle of the square tubing.

• A 6" long 5/8" diameter piece of all-thread attaches to the frame on one end and through the top of the 1/4" plate on the other end.

That arrangement has worked well since when you step on the bar the all-thread is in tension. However I've realized that if there were to be upward pressure on the bar the all-thread would be in compression, and it might bend. So today I bought some pipe with 5/8" ID and I'll cut pieces of it and slip over the all-thread. That will provide a lot more support in case there is upward pressure on the mounts.

Also, I've found some corrosion starting on the mounts. So I'm going to do several things to prevent corrosion. First, all of the mount hardware will be powder coated. And I'll spray the inside of the aluminum step bars with FluidFilm. And I'll lube all of the fasteners with anti-seize. Plus I'll spray the inside of the pipe spacers & all-thread with fluid film. But the design of the step bars, which have a plastic spacer between the ends of the bars and the mounts, creates a fairly positive seal - meaning it'll hold moisture in. So I'll put a slot in the bottom of the end of the tube so the moisture can get out.

I hope that means the mounts and bars will be around for a good, long time.

Got the coax connections on and the antenna mounted. But I took the cargo light out to do that and when I put it back I discovered that the goo I used last round to seal it to the cab was almost set up in the tube. I used it, but I'm not at all pleased with it so will have to redo that.

And I got the spacer cut and put in place for the rear step mount. In the pic on the left, below, you can see the spacer and the nut/lock washer/washer combo that is up against the frame. There's a similar combo on the other side of the frame and the back side of the piece of plate. So the spacer is sandwiched between the two nuts with tension on the all-thread, and the nuts and washers spread the load on the frame.

In the pic on the right you can see the rear spring's front pivot nut, which holds the step bar mount to the spring mount. The step bar mount seems quite solid.

[salans7]

Got the coax connections on and the antenna mounted. But I took the cargo light out to do that and when I put it back I discovered that the goo I used last round to seal it to the cab was almost set up in the tube. I used it, but I'm not at all pleased with it so will have to redo that.

And I got the spacer cut and put in place for the rear step mount. In the pic on the left, below, you can see the spacer and the nut/lock washer/washer combo that is up against the frame. There's a similar combo on the other side of the frame and the back side of the piece of plate. So the spacer is sandwiched between the two nuts with tension on the all-thread, and the nuts and washers spread the load on the frame.

In the pic on the right you can see the rear spring's front pivot nut, which holds the step bar mount to the spring mount. The step bar mount seems quite solid.

Wow Gary, that brushed trim around the back window seal is looking ROUGH.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153139449338?fits=Year%3A1985%7CModel%3AF-250%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item23a7d28dfa:g:i60AAOSwSVZevuq0

[grumpin]

Wow Gary, that brushed trim around the back window seal is looking ROUGH.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/153139449338?fits=Year%3A1985%7CModel%3AF-250%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item23a7d28dfa:g:i60AAOSwSVZevuq0

Great job!

Looking at that now, is there a way to run the coax through the cargo light?

[Gary Lewis]

Great job!

Looking at that now, is there a way to run the coax through the cargo light?

Shaun - You are right, that thing is UGLY! How hard is it to replace it? (I think I may actually have one, but if not I may order that one.)

Dane - It would have been cool to incorporate it into the light. I'm not sure there's enough room for it, but it might have been able to have gone just off center on the top.