ebbsrig Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 How much lift do you think you got from the monobeam and new springs? I'm not far behind you. And, what's this about hole drilling and the track rod? Please enlighten me. Bear in mind that my TTB was smack wore out. That said, with the positive arched springs, from any monobeam Ford 1980 to (I think) 1994 f250/350, and the straight axle, I gained about 2 inches or so in the front. I have not put it on concrete and measured it yet, but a couple inches is a close guess. Then there's the track bar. My oh my. Looked all over the web and zippo on the track bar. The thing is that any TTB is drilled for pivot bushing drop brackets. I had it in my mind to use one of the existing holes on the far driver's side front flange (in front of the oil sump) as a starting point. This works, but it requires a little finesse and cussing. With the rig on the ground and the axle installed I used a plumb bob to check where the front wheels lined up with the back. Jacked it up supported on the axle and checked again. I needed to bring the axle drivers side about 3/4" to dead square it with the rear. Being a little out is not uncommon according to the alignment guys I chatted with. I ended up chaining the frame to Superman (the blue 1986 F150), and attaching a come-a-long to my 1954 860 Ford tractor. Racked the axle over to position and installed the track bar with 1 bolt and a heavy duty c-clamp. The drilling was less than pleasant. You will need a 90*drill, a cut down 1/2" drill bit(I also cut down 1/4" & 7/16"), and you will have zero leverage to push the drill through. I cut my bits to about 2" over all length and resharpened them. Using the holes in the track bar bracket as a guide I started drilling with the 1/2" bit. Once I had a good divot started I swapped to the smaller short bits to make pilot holes. I can pop in a pic or two if you want. It was kind of arduous but you want the track bar on the Dana 60 to stave off front end oscillation (death wobble) and improve handling. You can always pony up a C-note for an adjustable track bar and let the alignment guys sort it out, but where's the fun in that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Bear in mind that my TTB was smack wore out. That said, with the positive arched springs, from any monobeam Ford 1980 to (I think) 1994 f250/350, and the straight axle, I gained about 2 inches or so in the front. I have not put it on concrete and measured it yet, but a couple inches is a close guess. Then there's the track bar. My oh my. Looked all over the web and zippo on the track bar. The thing is that any TTB is drilled for pivot bushing drop brackets. I had it in my mind to use one of the existing holes on the far driver's side front flange (in front of the oil sump) as a starting point. This works, but it requires a little finesse and cussing. With the rig on the ground and the axle installed I used a plumb bob to check where the front wheels lined up with the back. Jacked it up supported on the axle and checked again. I needed to bring the axle drivers side about 3/4" to dead square it with the rear. Being a little out is not uncommon according to the alignment guys I chatted with. I ended up chaining the frame to Superman (the blue 1986 F150), and attaching a come-a-long to my 1954 860 Ford tractor. Racked the axle over to position and installed the track bar with 1 bolt and a heavy duty c-clamp. The drilling was less than pleasant. You will need a 90*drill, a cut down 1/2" drill bit(I also cut down 1/4" & 7/16"), and you will have zero leverage to push the drill through. I cut my bits to about 2" over all length and resharpened them. Using the holes in the track bar bracket as a guide I started drilling with the 1/2" bit. Once I had a good divot started I swapped to the smaller short bits to make pilot holes. I can pop in a pic or two if you want. It was kind of arduous but you want the track bar on the Dana 60 to stave off front end oscillation (death wobble) and improve handling. You can always pony up a C-note for an adjustable track bar and let the alignment guys sort it out, but where's the fun in that? Ok, 2" is what I expected w/a monobeam vs the TTB. Thanks. But I'm going SuperDuty springs and a reverse shackle kit, so will get another 1 1/2" supposedly. And that will level the truck - before I start taking leaves out of the rear springs, so I may have to put the larger spacer blocks in back there. On the track bar, I am spending the bucks and getting an adjustable one. But the big reason is the extra 1 1/2" the SD springs and RSK give. Erik at Sky's Offroad Design said that I will need the adjustable bit with that. But, I believe my cross member is drilled for the track bar bracket already. And if not I can do that while the engine and suspension are out so I should have plenty of room. I have the '95 front clip and its cross member is drilled, so I know where the holes are supposed to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebbsrig Posted June 3, 2019 Author Share Posted June 3, 2019 Ok, 2" is what I expected w/a monobeam vs the TTB. Thanks. But I'm going SuperDuty springs and a reverse shackle kit, so will get another 1 1/2" supposedly. And that will level the truck - before I start taking leaves out of the rear springs, so I may have to put the larger spacer blocks in back there. On the track bar, I am spending the bucks and getting an adjustable one. But the big reason is the extra 1 1/2" the SD springs and RSK give. Erik at Sky's Offroad Design said that I will need the adjustable bit with that. But, I believe my cross member is drilled for the track bar bracket already. And if not I can do that while the engine and suspension are out so I should have plenty of room. I have the '95 front clip and its cross member is drilled, so I know where the holes are supposed to be. Fellas at the shop were asking how my weekend went at lunch. I was eating a sandwich and a thought came to my head the kept me chuckling all day. PB and Jelly.....Bullnose style Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 3, 2019 Share Posted June 3, 2019 Fellas at the shop were asking how my weekend went at lunch. I was eating a sandwich and a thought came to my head the kept me chuckling all day. PB and Jelly.....Bullnose style That's funny! And gross! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salans7 Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 And if not I can do that while the engine and suspension are out so I should have plenty of room. That's THE best way to do it. Otherwise the front of the crossmember and the oil pan are in the way and what you learned from watching MacGyver comes into play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 And if not I can do that while the engine and suspension are out so I should have plenty of room. That's THE best way to do it. Otherwise the front of the crossmember and the oil pan are in the way and what you learned from watching MacGyver comes into play. Amen, brother! I read and watched Youtubes about D60 SAS's until I was blue in the face. But everything I found said DO IT WITH THE ENGINE OUT!!!! One guy explained how to slip narrow end wrenches between the pan and the cross member, and down into the little valleys where the bolts are for the TTB brackets. But, while he did get the nuts and the brackets off, he couldn't get the bolts out. And that is what convinced me to do the D60 conversion while the engine was out, and not later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebbsrig Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 Amen, brother! I read and watched Youtubes about D60 SAS's until I was blue in the face. But everything I found said DO IT WITH THE ENGINE OUT!!!! One guy explained how to slip narrow end wrenches between the pan and the cross member, and down into the little valleys where the bolts are for the TTB brackets. But, while he did get the nuts and the brackets off, he couldn't get the bolts out. And that is what convinced me to do the D60 conversion while the engine was out, and not later. The swap would absolutely be easier with the engine out, no doubt about it. Still, it can be done with the engine in while parked on a gravel drive way if it has to be. Really wasn't all that bad except for the track bar. Got both axles done in about 3 days, had a buddy help for half day dropping the front did the rest by myself. Bending up brake lines giving her a good bleed then it's off to the alignment shop to set everything straight and cut in a new driveshaft. The Sterling uses a bigger u-joint than the Dana 70 did so I got to get the drive shaft adapted or replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 The swap would absolutely be easier with the engine out, no doubt about it. Still, it can be done with the engine in while parked on a gravel drive way if it has to be. Really wasn't all that bad except for the track bar. Got both axles done in about 3 days, had a buddy help for half day dropping the front did the rest by myself. Bending up brake lines giving her a good bleed then it's off to the alignment shop to set everything straight and cut in a new driveshaft. The Sterling uses a bigger u-joint than the Dana 70 did so I got to get the drive shaft adapted or replaced. If it is just the u-bolt, and surely the u-joint cap, they make crossover u-joints with larger caps on one side. But maybe the pinion is also longer and you need a shorter driveshaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebbsrig Posted June 4, 2019 Author Share Posted June 4, 2019 If it is just the u-bolt, and surely the u-joint cap, they make crossover u-joints with larger caps on one side. But maybe the pinion is also longer and you need a shorter driveshaft? Did not know about the cross over u-joint. I will definitely look into that. I put in the zf5 out of the 1990, but kept my original BW1345 transfer case because the BW1356 did not survive the crash. The length of the drive shaft is fine, it's only the differential end u-joint requirements I need to sort out. Thanks for the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 4, 2019 Share Posted June 4, 2019 Did not know about the cross over u-joint. I will definitely look into that. I put in the zf5 out of the 1990, but kept my original BW1345 transfer case because the BW1356 did not survive the crash. The length of the drive shaft is fine, it's only the differential end u-joint requirements I need to sort out. Thanks for the tip. The 1356 has a bit different shift lever arrangement. Like the lever is up instead of down, or vice versa. And the linkage for them comes out of the side of the transmission bulge instead of through the transmission cover. Anyway, I'm told that you can adapt the link for an NP208 or BW1345 to the 1356, and I'll have to learn how as I have a 1356 in Dad's truck. But it isn't bolt-in. So you dodged a bullet. Or a pellet. On the u-joint, I've not used the crossover ones, but I've read about them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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