Bruno2 Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I had no luck from Napa or dealer finding a similar switch with the "rod", so I swapped the best condition (other) style valve & switch from my P&P finds. After a careful bleed, the light is out. I noted what look to be fairly new rotors on the front brakes and good fluid. I'm suspecting the PO may have bled them without pulling the bleeder rod and damaged the switch. For fun, I'll take apart the old valve and see if it can be rebuilt. Good job, good info.! I need to do this on my 96. I had an issue a few years ago where it was keeping the pressure on my rear drums after the pedal was released. I took the valve off and cleaned it. A new valve is like $280.00. That kept the brakes from locking down like they did before. However, I have eternal ABS light on. Seems like the ABS isnt working either. I did after extensive searching on the web find a tutorial on how to rebuild them, but it wasnt my valve in the tutorial. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I need to do this on my 96. I had an issue a few years ago where it was keeping the pressure on my rear drums after the pedal was released. I took the valve off and cleaned it. A new valve is like $280.00. That kept the brakes from locking down like they did before. However, I have eternal ABS light on. Seems like the ABS isnt working either. I did after extensive searching on the web find a tutorial on how to rebuild them, but it wasnt my valve in the tutorial. This probably isn't your problem now that you have gotten the brakes to release, but there's an adjustment on the pushrod between the booster and the master. If you make that too long the brakes can't fully release. Scott, the welder guy, and I found that out the hard way recently. He came over with his '78 with brake prob's. After bleeding and adjusting the rears we still had no pedal, so adjusted that rod. It made all the difference in the world, but the brakes wouldn't release fully. Backing the screw off slightly fixed it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 This probably isn't your problem now that you have gotten the brakes to release, but there's an adjustment on the pushrod between the booster and the master. If you make that too long the brakes can't fully release. Scott, the welder guy, and I found that out the hard way recently. He came over with his '78 with brake prob's. After bleeding and adjusting the rears we still had no pedal, so adjusted that rod. It made all the difference in the world, but the brakes wouldn't release fully. Backing the screw off slightly fixed it. Does the master need to come off to do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 30, 2017 Share Posted November 30, 2017 Does the master need to come off to do this? Jein - German slang for yes and no. Pull the two bolts holding the master to the booster and tilt the master forward and a bit to the side. You'll see the pushrod. The factory manual gives a precise length the rod should be and warns that if it is too long the brakes won't disengage. And, it shows how to make a U-shaped gauge to measure it, which is otherwise very difficult to do. We guestimated it and got it wrong, so Scott said he knows someone with a laser cutting system and was going to ask him to make that tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruno2 Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Jein - German slang for yes and no. Pull the two bolts holding the master to the booster and tilt the master forward and a bit to the side. You'll see the pushrod. The factory manual gives a precise length the rod should be and warns that if it is too long the brakes won't disengage. And, it shows how to make a U-shaped gauge to measure it, which is otherwise very difficult to do. We guestimated it and got it wrong, so Scott said he knows someone with a laser cutting system and was going to ask him to make that tool. This is my "ABS" light though. Is it the same issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 This is my "ABS" light though. Is it the same issue? Maybe not. I don't know what causes the ABS light to come on. This issue causes one side of the brake system to keep some pressure in the system. So, would that turn the ABS light on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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