Gary Lewis Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 Our pick & pull had a new arrival, an 83 F150 with a matching valve. I managed to get the valve home- the bolts securing it to the bracket were the toughest part to let go. I'm out of daylight today, so i'll post back if I have success next weekend. I'll try swapping switches first before I change the whole valve. Good luck! But I would bet it will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted November 13, 2017 Author Share Posted November 13, 2017 An update to a simple problem that continues to mildly vex: On my run to the P&P yesterday, I picked up a 2nd proportioning valve that appeared to be the same part from an '85 (or at least marked as such at the P&P, I didn't think to check the VIN). When I disassembled for cleaning and switch swap, I found the switch in my truck and the donor switches were different: The two donors feature a metal lined tube that fits over a rod coming out of the valve. Presumably if the check valve slides one way or another, the rod grounds the switch energizing the dash light. The original valve features a hole instead of a rod, and the switch has a (thicker) rod- see the pics. Looking at the original valve "receiver" location, it does not appear to be off center. Tomorrow, I will head to the dealer with examples of both switches, and finally put the issue to bed. 1st pic is the 2 donor valves, and the original switch and donor switch 2nd & 3rd pics show the 2 donor switches on book-ending the original switch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 An update to a simple problem that continues to mildly vex: On my run to the P&P yesterday, I picked up a 2nd proportioning valve that appeared to be the same part from an '85 (or at least marked as such at the P&P, I didn't think to check the VIN). When I disassembled for cleaning and switch swap, I found the switch in my truck and the donor switches were different: The two donors feature a metal lined tube that fits over a rod coming out of the valve. Presumably if the check valve slides one way or another, the rod grounds the switch energizing the dash light. The original valve features a hole instead of a rod, and the switch has a (thicker) rod- see the pics. Looking at the original valve "receiver" location, it does not appear to be off center. Tomorrow, I will head to the dealer with examples of both switches, and finally put the issue to bed. 1st pic is the 2 donor valves, and the original switch and donor switch 2nd & 3rd pics show the 2 donor switches on book-ending the original switch You need part numbers, and I see now that I don't have them on the website. Yet....................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 An update to a simple problem that continues to mildly vex: On my run to the P&P yesterday, I picked up a 2nd proportioning valve that appeared to be the same part from an '85 (or at least marked as such at the P&P, I didn't think to check the VIN). When I disassembled for cleaning and switch swap, I found the switch in my truck and the donor switches were different: The two donors feature a metal lined tube that fits over a rod coming out of the valve. Presumably if the check valve slides one way or another, the rod grounds the switch energizing the dash light. The original valve features a hole instead of a rod, and the switch has a (thicker) rod- see the pics. Looking at the original valve "receiver" location, it does not appear to be off center. Tomorrow, I will head to the dealer with examples of both switches, and finally put the issue to bed. 1st pic is the 2 donor valves, and the original switch and donor switch 2nd & 3rd pics show the 2 donor switches on book-ending the original switch I thought we already covered the fact that it is not called the proportioning valve? It is the combination valve. One step before the next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 I thought we already covered the fact that it is not called the proportioning valve? It is the combination valve. One step before the next. We did. It is a "pressure differential valve" according to Ford. As shown on the tab by that name here: Driveline/Brakes. Basic part number is 2B257, as shown on Page B in the illustrations in the Overall tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 We did. It is a "pressure differential valve" according to Ford. As shown on the tab by that name here: Driveline/Brakes. Basic part number is 2B257, as shown on Page B in the illustrations in the Overall tab. And, I should clarify. In the illustration it looks like #2269 might be those switches. Unfortunately they are the brake lines coming in. I do not believe the switches were sold separately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dyn Blin Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 An update to a simple problem that continues to mildly vex: On my run to the P&P yesterday, I picked up a 2nd proportioning valve that appeared to be the same part from an '85 (or at least marked as such at the P&P, I didn't think to check the VIN). When I disassembled for cleaning and switch swap, I found the switch in my truck and the donor switches were different: The two donors feature a metal lined tube that fits over a rod coming out of the valve. Presumably if the check valve slides one way or another, the rod grounds the switch energizing the dash light. The original valve features a hole instead of a rod, and the switch has a (thicker) rod- see the pics. Looking at the original valve "receiver" location, it does not appear to be off center. Tomorrow, I will head to the dealer with examples of both switches, and finally put the issue to bed. 1st pic is the 2 donor valves, and the original switch and donor switch 2nd & 3rd pics show the 2 donor switches on book-ending the original switch I had no luck from Napa or dealer finding a similar switch with the "rod", so I swapped the best condition (other) style valve & switch from my P&P finds. After a careful bleed, the light is out. I noted what look to be fairly new rotors on the front brakes and good fluid. I'm suspecting the PO may have bled them without pulling the bleeder rod and damaged the switch. For fun, I'll take apart the old valve and see if it can be rebuilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I had no luck from Napa or dealer finding a similar switch with the "rod", so I swapped the best condition (other) style valve & switch from my P&P finds. After a careful bleed, the light is out. I noted what look to be fairly new rotors on the front brakes and good fluid. I'm suspecting the PO may have bled them without pulling the bleeder rod and damaged the switch. For fun, I'll take apart the old valve and see if it can be rebuilt. I was referring to the entire "part" as the combination valve. It encompasses many pieces within. Dyn, you got the light out, that is what is important. If you have a strong pedal and good braking, you're done :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I had no luck from Napa or dealer finding a similar switch with the "rod", so I swapped the best condition (other) style valve & switch from my P&P finds. After a careful bleed, the light is out. I noted what look to be fairly new rotors on the front brakes and good fluid. I'm suspecting the PO may have bled them without pulling the bleeder rod and damaged the switch. For fun, I'll take apart the old valve and see if it can be rebuilt. Congrat's! With the light out you know that both sides of the system are working - front/back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 I had no luck from Napa or dealer finding a similar switch with the "rod", so I swapped the best condition (other) style valve & switch from my P&P finds. After a careful bleed, the light is out. I noted what look to be fairly new rotors on the front brakes and good fluid. I'm suspecting the PO may have bled them without pulling the bleeder rod and damaged the switch. For fun, I'll take apart the old valve and see if it can be rebuilt. Good job, good info.! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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