Steve83 Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 Hmmmm, that might work. But I'm tempted to run the bushing through the dishwasher. Yes, I have a dishwasher in the shop. Surely the temp wouldn't hurt the bushings if I didn't put it on the HD Pan cycle? I would scrub it with gasoline before I went to all that trouble. Surely it wouldn't hurt poly. Gasoline does NOT dissolve silicone grease - that's why the grease should never be used on the fuel system; it can clog jets & injectors. But I do recommend using grease on the body mounts, though it's not required on Energy black because of the self-lubricating effect of the graphite in that poly (and no other color or brand). It only takes a little, though - just a thin film everywhere it touches metal. If your bushings stretched enough to slide out of place, it sounds like you severely over-torqued the bolts. Poly is harder than vulcanized rubber, so I'd expect it to break the bolts. I'd also expect it to bottom-out the factory steel sleeves, or the steel reinforcements inside the bushings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 Gasoline does NOT dissolve silicone grease - that's why the grease should never be used on the fuel system; it can clog jets & injectors. But I do recommend using grease on the body mounts, though it's not required on Energy black because of the self-lubricating effect of the graphite in that poly (and no other color or brand). It only takes a little, though - just a thin film everywhere it touches metal. If your bushings stretched enough to slide out of place, it sounds like you severely over-torqued the bolts. Poly is harder than vulcanized rubber, so I'd expect it to break the bolts. I'd also expect it to bottom-out the factory steel sleeves, or the steel reinforcements inside the bushings. No, I didn't over-torque the bolts. I got to 20 lb-ft when the spec is 30 if I remember correctly, and by then the bushings were doing their best to escape. However, I did use a lot of the grease, so maybe that's the issue. But it doesn't come off completely with the cleaners I've used, so I'm sure there's still a film of it left on the metal, if not the bushings. We will find out how it goes when I get to torque the bolts down again, hopefully mid-week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 But it doesn't come off completely with the cleaners I've used...I'd use lots of absorbent paper towels (Brawny), and then (if necessary) throw them in a tub of hot water & Dawn with PurplePower/SimpleGreen for a few hours. If you need them really-dry of grease, maybe try something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UQQVJY https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00397L0DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 No, I didn't over-torque the bolts. I got to 20 lb-ft when the spec is 30 if I remember correctly, and by then the bushings were doing their best to escape. However, I did use a lot of the grease, so maybe that's the issue. But it doesn't come off completely with the cleaners I've used, so I'm sure there's still a film of it left on the metal, if not the bushings. We will find out how it goes when I get to torque the bolts down again, hopefully mid-week. 20-30 ft lbs is not near enough force to squish a poly bushing, even if it has grease on it. The bolt going through the center should keep it in place. I guess I am missing something. Ive always used a thin layer of grease on poly bushings and never had an issue. Maybe the cab mount flange and the flange on the frame arent in parallel planes, causing the pucks to try to squeeze out? I dunno. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted May 5, 2019 Share Posted May 5, 2019 No, I didn't over-torque the bolts. I got to 20 lb-ft when the spec is 30 if I remember correctly, and by then the bushings were doing their best to escape. However, I did use a lot of the grease, so maybe that's the issue. But it doesn't come off completely with the cleaners I've used, so I'm sure there's still a film of it left on the metal, if not the bushings. We will find out how it goes when I get to torque the bolts down again, hopefully mid-week. Lacquer thinner will removed the silicon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 5, 2019 Author Share Posted May 5, 2019 Lacquer thinner will removed the silicon. Steve - I'll bet that either of those would work. And if what I've done/will do doesn't get them clean enough then I'll get some of the prep. Thanks. Ray - It isn't so much that it squishes the bushing vertically, but that the top or bottom of the bushing moves laterally so much that the angle that creates parallelograms the bushing. The worst was at the back of the cab where the bushing must be ~4" tall. While the bottom of it is captured in the mount the top is free to slide laterally up against the bolt and then try to ooze around the bolt. That caused a situation where I could just keep tightening the bolt w/o the torque coming up very much, and when I looked I could see the bushings at an angle. In front the bushings aren't nearly as tall, but the bottom bushing was trying to come out from between the cab and the bottom nut/keeper. In fact, it moved so far that there are rings in the bushing where the edge of the keeper dug into the bushing. I'll take a pic and post it later. Pete - I might try brake cleaner, in small amounts, to see if it'll cut the last of the grease that's on there. That's easier than lacquer thinner as that's in a 5 gallon can. But I can do that if needed. However, I don't want to damage the bushings either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 ...the top is free to slide laterally up against the bolt...You're supposed to use the factory steel sleeves - that will keep the bushings in-line. https://supermotors.net/getfile/71625/thumbnail/body-mount-parts.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 6, 2019 Author Share Posted May 6, 2019 You're supposed to use the factory steel sleeves - that will keep the bushings in-line.Hmmmm, maybe that's what I'm doing wrong! I'll check, but I don't remember these: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted May 6, 2019 Share Posted May 6, 2019 You're supposed to use the factory steel sleeves - that will keep the bushings in-line.Hmmmm, maybe that's what I'm doing wrong! I'll check, but I don't remember these: I knew something wasnt right Gary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 7, 2019 Author Share Posted May 7, 2019 I knew something wasnt right Gary. Well, they say confession is good for the soul, so here 'tis: I did forget the inner piece on the rear. And that's going to make a big difference in how that tightens down as those bushings will be captive, meaning they can't go anywhere. But, that's not the case in the front. I've checked and I have all of the right pieces there and from the pic below you can see that the bushing slid to the side. These are the lower bushings for the front cab mounts, and what was happening was that the bottoms of the bushings were slipping to the side due to the grease and the top was going the other way. Anyway, when things go together for good I'll have the inner piece in the rear, properly powder coated and with plenty of anti-seize. But, no more silicon grease! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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