FoxFord33 Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 OK, so my truck is actually a '93, but by virtue of many of the pieces being the same, and because I trust you guys more than I trust the "other forum," I ask this here: My rear is the 8.8 with 3.08 gears. There is currently NO PROBLEM with it. No gear lash, no noise, not even any U-joint problems. I am thinking of starting to tow with this (a relatively light camping trailer), and I wonder, should I even mess with anything, i.e., change the gear oil, etc.? Is there a hidden danger? And a sub-question: The rear cover looks like it was sealed with gasket maker; is that factory, or has someone already changed it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 Yes, you should change the fluid. There's no downside and certainly an upside. And I think Ford did use some gasket maker later, but I'm not sure when it started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFord33 Posted April 30, 2019 Author Share Posted April 30, 2019 Yes, you should change the fluid. There's no downside and certainly an upside. And I think Ford did use some gasket maker later, but I'm not sure when it started. Thanks! I will be doing a drain and fill, and while I'm at it, replace the pinion seal since it's beginning to seep a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 My rear is the 8.8 with 3.08 gears. There is currently NO PROBLEM with it. No gear lash, no noise, not even any U-joint problems. And a sub-question: The rear cover looks like it was sealed with gasket maker; is that factory, or has someone already changed it? I have an 8.8 with 3.08 gears in my '84 2wd. The ring and pinion in mine are nice and tight but the spider gears have a little bit of slop in them. As far as I know, the 8.8 cover was sealed with RTV, but I've only taken apart two of them so I can't speak for all years. You can buy a gasket for them...it is under $10 at the autoparts shops, but it is paper thin and will need RTV anyway. The only other thing I have to add is to make sure you get the fill plug out before you remove the cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted April 30, 2019 Share Posted April 30, 2019 My rear is the 8.8 with 3.08 gears. There is currently NO PROBLEM with it. No gear lash, no noise, not even any U-joint problems. And a sub-question: The rear cover looks like it was sealed with gasket maker; is that factory, or has someone already changed it? I have an 8.8 with 3.08 gears in my '84 2wd. The ring and pinion in mine are nice and tight but the spider gears have a little bit of slop in them. As far as I know, the 8.8 cover was sealed with RTV, but I've only taken apart two of them so I can't speak for all years. You can buy a gasket for them...it is under $10 at the autoparts shops, but it is paper thin and will need RTV anyway. The only other thing I have to add is to make sure you get the fill plug out before you remove the cover. I cant speak for fords long term axle life.....but.....I can for chevy. Ive got a 346,000 mile 99 Z71. Axle has NEVER had any maintenance. Not a bearing, not a seal, not a single fluid change. In fact, I just for the very first time opened the fill plug to check oil level. It was perfect, oil looked clean. If it aint broke.....I dont fix it. The axle doesnt make any noise. Its a miracle. Ive hauled many times with this truck over the 300,000 miles its been in the family. Its hauled cars and trailers from Long Island out to Tulsa Oklahoma. Maybe I just got lucky on this one. But I aint about to do a fluid drain and fill now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scbill Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 I cant speak for fords long term axle life.....but.....I can for chevy. Ive got a 346,000 mile 99 Z71. Axle has NEVER had any maintenance. Not a bearing, not a seal, not a single fluid change. In fact, I just for the very first time opened the fill plug to check oil level. It was perfect, oil looked clean. If it aint broke.....I dont fix it. The axle doesnt make any noise. Its a miracle. Ive hauled many times with this truck over the 300,000 miles its been in the family. Its hauled cars and trailers from Long Island out to Tulsa Oklahoma. Maybe I just got lucky on this one. But I aint about to do a fluid drain and fill now. I agree with Ray, pull the fill plug and check fill level, if it's full and clean, go from there. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted May 2, 2019 Share Posted May 2, 2019 I will be doing a drain and fill...You don't have to remove the cover for that. The fluid can be suctioned out through the fill hole. Breaking the seal on the rear cover when the axle is on the ground makes it very difficult to get it sealed again. I wouldn't use a gasket - sealant only, and I prefer RightStuff: https://supermotors.net/getfile/185332/thumbnail/diffcoversealant.jpg...replace the pinion seal since it's beginning to seep a bit.That's deceptively complicated... The pinion flange has to come off, which means removing the pinion nut, which is carefully & precisely torqued to get the correct pinion bearing preload. To R&I it, you need to first MEASURE the rotating torque of the pinion gear (using a rare & expensive needle-style inch-pound torque wrench), which can't be done with the carrier & axleshafts installed. That's the only way you'll be able re-install the nut correctly, after replacing the $5 seal. Onion-peels... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFord33 Posted May 2, 2019 Author Share Posted May 2, 2019 I will be doing a drain and fill...You don't have to remove the cover for that. The fluid can be suctioned out through the fill hole. Breaking the seal on the rear cover when the axle is on the ground makes it very difficult to get it sealed again. I wouldn't use a gasket - sealant only, and I prefer RightStuff: https://supermotors.net/getfile/185332/thumbnail/diffcoversealant.jpg...replace the pinion seal since it's beginning to seep a bit.That's deceptively complicated... The pinion flange has to come off, which means removing the pinion nut, which is carefully & precisely torqued to get the correct pinion bearing preload. To R&I it, you need to first MEASURE the rotating torque of the pinion gear (using a rare & expensive needle-style inch-pound torque wrench), which can't be done with the carrier & axleshafts installed. That's the only way you'll be able re-install the nut correctly, after replacing the $5 seal. Onion-peels... Woo... I didn't realize it would be so tricky. Maybe I'll suction it or just leave it alone... no LS, so all it needs is lube, and it seems to be lubed as-is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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