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Removing California Emissions System


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The VIN might be a good start. If you are looking to pull the stuff off the engine, then mabe try like a block number or something, might have a code on there. Also, if it has the smog stuff on it, check that aswell.

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Is it on here?

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The VIN is on there, but it won't tell you about the emissions package. You find that with the calibration code. As it says, that label is usually on the valve cover. Get the #, like the 2-3A-R10, and I'll look it up.

That code wasnt anywhere on the valve cover. I didnt look too hard anywhere else.

Anyway, the Cali junk is off.

After reading some specs on here about the heater hose circuit, looks like I have a special thermostat housing too. There is what I thought to be a vacuum operated heater co trol valve. But now, I believe it is a Cali emissions system temp switch. None of the four vacuum lines went to anything but the other cali emissions components.

So, I guess I will remove that and put a plug in that hole.

And, I guess I need to instal a heater control valve, a manual one.

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That code wasnt anywhere on the valve cover. I didnt look too hard anywhere else.

Anyway, the Cali junk is off.

After reading some specs on here about the heater hose circuit, looks like I have a special thermostat housing too. There is what I thought to be a vacuum operated heater co trol valve. But now, I believe it is a Cali emissions system temp switch. None of the four vacuum lines went to anything but the other cali emissions components.

So, I guess I will remove that and put a plug in that hole.

And, I guess I need to instal a heater control valve, a manual one.

20190421_200334.jpg.0bc535e69d3eaf3487f1e6156a56b95e.jpg

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Well done Ray!

Are you getting rid of all this stuff?

Yes Sir. Cleans up the engine bay a lot.

The wire harness was easy to remove. All that needs to remain in the truck is the tach wire, switched 12v for coil, oil pressure wire, and coolant temp wire. You do need to remove the wire wrapping, then rewrap, but that isnt too hard.

20190421_200431.jpg.848ac1b18ba9eb9685c139e1a328bcd0.jpg

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Well done Ray!

Are you getting rid of all this stuff?

Yes Sir. Cleans up the engine bay a lot.

The wire harness was easy to remove. All that needs to remain in the truck is the tach wire, switched 12v for coil, oil pressure wire, and coolant temp wire. You do need to remove the wire wrapping, then rewrap, but that isnt too hard.

You can also see in the above photo the 4 port vacuum sensor stuck in the thermostat housing. I am guessing a non cali/non emission 300 thermostat housing looks much different.

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You can also see in the above photo the 4 port vacuum sensor stuck in the thermostat housing. I am guessing a non cali/non emission 300 thermostat housing looks much different.

All 82's used EOTZ 8592-B as the thermostat housing, which Ford calls a Connector. The difference was in what screwed into the port.

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Ray, from the distributor and lake of a mixture solenoid on the carburetor, your truck did not have the computer controlled system. You could have kept the DS-II system instead of going to a damn Chevy distributor.

One thing I will tell you from personal experience on an older Chevy truck, you will want to add a relay to provide the needed 12V high current feed to the HEI distributor. If the 1982 ignition feed wiring has a way to bypass the resistance wire easily then you might be ok there. The 1985.5 through 1987 trucks had the capability to have a 12V feed to the TFI ignition or a resisted feed for the DS-II as both systems were used depending on the engine installed.

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