Little Blue 82

[Ray Cecil]

Twin carb twin turbo!!!!!!!!!!!!*&$^%*$!!!!

Sheeeew....been awhile since I posted in this thread. The up side to the pandemic is that I am finally getting around to finishing some little projects here and there.

Yesterday evening I installed the Offenhauser C Series. Now.....I know I don't have a proper carb or Fitech solution yet....but I have a brand new 600cfm Edelbrock sitting on the shelf. So, to get it running, I am throwing that on there.

Today I am running to go get some fuel line, and an air cleaner.

I sold the 69' Chevy Impala Monday, so I am a few thousand dollars richer, not to mention I've made a bunch of money in the stock market this week. I bought a bunch of stock Monday at Market open, and was handsomely rewarded for my timing. I hope you all took advantage of the best stock buying opportunity since 2008!!!

So, with those gains.....I am seriously thinking about going Fitech. But....the ease of a carb....and the price of a carb.....hard to pull the trigger on FI. But I am not ruling it out.

Ya'll help me decide.

Cory, I think you mentioned a few months ago that you wanted my stock air-cleaner assembly. If you still want it, email me and I will ship it to you if you still need it.

So awhile back I was dreaming of doing an eco-boost swap....not ready for that. I am still enjoying the 300. But, maybe the eco-boost swap is in the near future....how cool would that be?

[Ray Cecil]

Sheeeew....been awhile since I posted in this thread. The up side to the pandemic is that I am finally getting around to finishing some little projects here and there.

Yesterday evening I installed the Offenhauser C Series. Now.....I know I don't have a proper carb or Fitech solution yet....but I have a brand new 600cfm Edelbrock sitting on the shelf. So, to get it running, I am throwing that on there.

Today I am running to go get some fuel line, and an air cleaner.

I sold the 69' Chevy Impala Monday, so I am a few thousand dollars richer, not to mention I've made a bunch of money in the stock market this week. I bought a bunch of stock Monday at Market open, and was handsomely rewarded for my timing. I hope you all took advantage of the best stock buying opportunity since 2008!!!

So, with those gains.....I am seriously thinking about going Fitech. But....the ease of a carb....and the price of a carb.....hard to pull the trigger on FI. But I am not ruling it out.

Ya'll help me decide.

Cory, I think you mentioned a few months ago that you wanted my stock air-cleaner assembly. If you still want it, email me and I will ship it to you if you still need it.

So awhile back I was dreaming of doing an eco-boost swap....not ready for that. I am still enjoying the 300. But, maybe the eco-boost swap is in the near future....how cool would that be?

Okay, without taking my valve cover off to see for myself.....my stock 300 rocker studs.....are they press in or screw in? I'm finding mixed opinions on other websites. Seems like the 3/8" screw in studs started in 85'? Can anyone confirm this? If I have the screw in studs, I am going to get a set of chevy rockers to increase the lift.

[Gary Lewis]

Okay, without taking my valve cover off to see for myself.....my stock 300 rocker studs.....are they press in or screw in? I'm finding mixed opinions on other websites. Seems like the 3/8" screw in studs started in 85'? Can anyone confirm this? If I have the screw in studs, I am going to get a set of chevy rockers to increase the lift.

Looking at the Illustrations tab on our page on the 300 six (Documentation/Engines/300 Six) a rocker arm bolt/stud is generic part # 6A527. Looking on the Part Numbers tab I see that 1980-84 used one part number, apparently a stud, and '85 on used a bolt.

On the fuel system, since you have the Eddy I'd put it on and see what you think. If you like it then why change? If not, perhaps then it is time for FI?

As for the stock market, no I didn't. Glad you did and now you can buy more parts!

[1986F150Six]

Okay, without taking my valve cover off to see for myself.....my stock 300 rocker studs.....are they press in or screw in? I'm finding mixed opinions on other websites. Seems like the 3/8" screw in studs started in 85'? Can anyone confirm this? If I have the screw in studs, I am going to get a set of chevy rockers to increase the lift.

I believe the studs are pressed in.

Perhaps this information will be of assistance:

by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:35 pm

Regarding head studs and rocker arms I have seen many posts by puzzled visitors. This may be because there are several kinds:

Early engines had pressed in studs of a nominal diameter of 3/8 inch and a 3/8-NF thread on the end. These studs were for rockers of the adjustable variety, using a locking nut to maintain the proper adjustment height. The rockers may have looked like the cast type or the stamped type.

Later, some heads had pressed in studs of a nominal diameter of 3/8 inch and a 5/16-NF thread on the end. These studs were for non-adjustable rockers in that the 5/16 nut was intended to be torqued down tightly against the 3/8 shoulder. All adjustment was taken up in the lifter preload.

I'm pretty sure heads of the above two types all had slotted pushrod holes to maintain rocker alignment with the end of the valve. These slotted holes need to be carefully milled out to .380 / .385 if 3/8" pushrods are to be used. Or, alternatively, they could be enlarged and pushrod guide plates installed with screw-in studs.

Finally, late model carbed engines and all EFI engines used a pedastal mounted stamped rocker arm that was held down by 5/16-NC cap screws. These also are of the non-adjustable variety. The heads have round pushrod clearance holes. Rocker alignment is maintained by stamped steel channel pieces that capture two adjacent fulcrums. Installing screw-in studs in these heads requires using pushrod guideplates.

Regarding screw-in studs: The pressed-in studs may be removed and the resultant hole used as a pilot for the 7/16-NC stud. This usually requires milling the boss down to get the screw-in stud at the correct height. Screw-in studs have either a 3/8 nominal size or a 7/16 nominal size (but they all use a 7/16 threaded hole) and the hole in the rocker fulcrums must match the size of stud you are using.

Good luck.

FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

[Ray Cecil]

I believe the studs are pressed in.

Perhaps this information will be of assistance:

by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER » Mon Dec 04, 2006 12:35 pm

Regarding head studs and rocker arms I have seen many posts by puzzled visitors. This may be because there are several kinds:

Early engines had pressed in studs of a nominal diameter of 3/8 inch and a 3/8-NF thread on the end. These studs were for rockers of the adjustable variety, using a locking nut to maintain the proper adjustment height. The rockers may have looked like the cast type or the stamped type.

Later, some heads had pressed in studs of a nominal diameter of 3/8 inch and a 5/16-NF thread on the end. These studs were for non-adjustable rockers in that the 5/16 nut was intended to be torqued down tightly against the 3/8 shoulder. All adjustment was taken up in the lifter preload.

I'm pretty sure heads of the above two types all had slotted pushrod holes to maintain rocker alignment with the end of the valve. These slotted holes need to be carefully milled out to .380 / .385 if 3/8" pushrods are to be used. Or, alternatively, they could be enlarged and pushrod guide plates installed with screw-in studs.

Finally, late model carbed engines and all EFI engines used a pedastal mounted stamped rocker arm that was held down by 5/16-NC cap screws. These also are of the non-adjustable variety. The heads have round pushrod clearance holes. Rocker alignment is maintained by stamped steel channel pieces that capture two adjacent fulcrums. Installing screw-in studs in these heads requires using pushrod guideplates.

Regarding screw-in studs: The pressed-in studs may be removed and the resultant hole used as a pilot for the 7/16-NC stud. This usually requires milling the boss down to get the screw-in stud at the correct height. Screw-in studs have either a 3/8 nominal size or a 7/16 nominal size (but they all use a 7/16 threaded hole) and the hole in the rocker fulcrums must match the size of stud you are using.

Good luck.

FORD 300 INLINE SIX - THE BEST KEPT SECRET IN DRAG RACING

Thanks for the replies guys.

So I got it fired up. Man oh man....I cannot do ANYTHING to get the idle down to an acceptable rpm. I've tried all combinations of timing, idle mixture screws, and idle set screw....the dag-gum thing is just over carbed. If I press hard on the throttle lever to try to close the primary butterflys better, I can get it to idle better....so I am a little bit confused as to why that is.

Am I over carbed, or are the butterfly valves not closing all the way? I do have a heavy return spring installed.

[Ray Cecil]

Thanks for the replies guys.

So I got it fired up. Man oh man....I cannot do ANYTHING to get the idle down to an acceptable rpm. I've tried all combinations of timing, idle mixture screws, and idle set screw....the dag-gum thing is just over carbed. If I press hard on the throttle lever to try to close the primary butterflys better, I can get it to idle better....so I am a little bit confused as to why that is.

Am I over carbed, or are the butterfly valves not closing all the way? I do have a heavy return spring installed.

I forgot to mention, I do have a 1" carb spacer installed. That was needed in order to get the carb high enough for return spring and throttle cable brackets.

[Ray Cecil]

I forgot to mention, I do have a 1" carb spacer installed. That was needed in order to get the carb high enough for return spring and throttle cable brackets.

Fast idle and idle speed screws are backed all the way out, and it still idles high....I push on the lever to jamb the butterflys closed and it stops idling....

[Gary Lewis]

Fast idle and idle speed screws are backed all the way out, and it still idles high....I push on the lever to jamb the butterflys closed and it stops idling....

I think you have a large vacuum leak. Try David's smoke test.

[Ray Cecil]

I think you have a large vacuum leak. Try David's smoke test.

I thought the same thing initially, I haven't found a leak yet. Only two ports on the manifold, they are plugged. Manifold is making good contact with head/gasket, no open ports on carb. I will try the water spray test to see if I can get a change in idle that way. Smoke would get blown all over the place with the fan going. Unless you mean with the engine off and pressuring the manifold. I may try plugging the pcv port, brake booster port and see if that changes anything.

[Gary Lewis]

I thought the same thing initially, I haven't found a leak yet. Only two ports on the manifold, they are plugged. Manifold is making good contact with head/gasket, no open ports on carb. I will try the water spray test to see if I can get a change in idle that way. Smoke would get blown all over the place with the fan going. Unless you mean with the engine off and pressuring the manifold. I may try plugging the pcv port, brake booster port and see if that changes anything.

Yes, smoke is done with the engine off, blowing into a vacuum hose and seeing where it comes out. But plug all ports first to see what is happening.

And check the fit of the carb to the intake manifold. Or squirt brake cleaner there. There are problems sometimes getting an Eddy to seal to the intake.