Little Blue 82

[Gary Lewis]

There should be a port on the carb that just goes into the air horn, where the air is clean. Probably the one in the pic below from the FSM. That air will be cool so you can run a vacuum hose from it to the copper tubing.

And yes, the vacuum in the choke will overcome any vacuum in the air horn.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40247/YFA_Clean_Air_Port.jpg

Did you miss my post back on think page 27 with pictures of how the hot air path works?

Yes, you can run heat to the carb with a header. Use some of the soft tubing Jim talks about for brake or fuel line, and wrap it around the header two or three turns. That'll warm the air up in the tube quite nicely. You might want to put some insulation on the return, but it'll work.

Copper tubing is better, it will not rust out and is easier to bend.

Poor man headers ... EFI manifolds

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_131830.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_170816.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_170737.jpg

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n40066/20180916_170802.jpg

If you need to run pre-heat to the air filter you can make the tin from sheet metal and/or tin cans to catch the heat and use the paper hose up to the filter housing like stock.

I have not done this and don't know if I will have to only time will tell.

Dave ----

Dave ----

Sorry Dave, I forgot. (My excuse is that I'm busily organizing the new website in the background. But I should have remembered that.)

[Ray Cecil]

Sorry Dave, I forgot. (My excuse is that I'm busily organizing the new website in the background. But I should have remembered that.)

What is the reason for pulling air out of the air horn, down through the copper, then back up to the choke? Why not just let the atmosphere in the copper tube? Its such a low volume of air, it'll never clog. Personally, I like minimalism under the hood.

[Gary Lewis]

What is the reason for pulling air out of the air horn, down through the copper, then back up to the choke? Why not just let the atmosphere in the copper tube? Its such a low volume of air, it'll never clog. Personally, I like minimalism under the hood.

Because whatever is in that air is going into the engine. If you drive in dusty conditions do you want that in your engine?

[Ray Cecil]

Because whatever is in that air is going into the engine. If you drive in dusty conditions do you want that in your engine?

I put my finger on the end of that tube while the engine was running. I felt no vacuum. Id be surprised if that tube draws in 1 gallon of air an hour.

Am I supposed to have a measurable vacuum at that port? If its just a tiny immeasurable vacuum of air....no, I am not worried about filtering it.

[Gary Lewis]

Because whatever is in that air is going into the engine. If you drive in dusty conditions do you want that in your engine?

I put my finger on the end of that tube while the engine was running. I felt no vacuum. Id be surprised if that tube draws in 1 gallon of air an hour.

Am I supposed to have a measurable vacuum at that port? If its just a tiny immeasurable vacuum of air....no, I am not worried about filtering it.

I've never measured it. But unless it is plugged it draws air in through a very small, metered port. I don't want the dust from the road in my engine, so if the tube is off I seal the port.

[Ray Cecil]

I've never measured it. But unless it is plugged it draws air in through a very small, metered port. I don't want the dust from the road in my engine, so if the tube is off I seal the port.

Skiatook is much more dusty than Taylorsville KY. I am not concerned about it. If I was, I think I might use an inline filter, rather than running tubes all over the place.

Anyway, I drove little blue in to work today. I was anticipating the results of the new pieces of weather strip over the tops of the doors. They DO quiet things down noticeably. I still have a vent window whistle on the passenger door. My sliding rear window latch is broke, and the window works its way open slightly and causes another whistle. So I will be getting a new latch for that.

The choke comes tomorrow. I will get that setup then.

It was colder this morning. Tested out the new heater core, worked really well. No issues with defrost.

Now I need to address my exhaust and noisy tires.

I have two Flowmaster FX glasspacks behind an x-pipe. Then dumps before axle. Its loud. I have a 3"In/Out 40 Series flowmaster sitting here too. Center in/Center out. I am thinking the two 2.25" pipes into 1 3" pipe, into the 40 series, then back over the axle and out the back.

[Gary Lewis]

Skiatook is much more dusty than Taylorsville KY. I am not concerned about it. If I was, I think I might use an inline filter, rather than running tubes all over the place.

Anyway, I drove little blue in to work today. I was anticipating the results of the new pieces of weather strip over the tops of the doors. They DO quiet things down noticeably. I still have a vent window whistle on the passenger door. My sliding rear window latch is broke, and the window works its way open slightly and causes another whistle. So I will be getting a new latch for that.

The choke comes tomorrow. I will get that setup then.

It was colder this morning. Tested out the new heater core, worked really well. No issues with defrost.

Now I need to address my exhaust and noisy tires.

I have two Flowmaster FX glasspacks behind an x-pipe. Then dumps before axle. Its loud. I have a 3"In/Out 40 Series flowmaster sitting here too. Center in/Center out. I am thinking the two 2.25" pipes into 1 3" pipe, into the 40 series, then back over the axle and out the back.

I'm not a fan of Flowmasters, and the 40 Series in particular. My other '81 had one on that 351M and it was terribly noisy. I put a longer Magnaflow on and it was much quieter. And then I could hear the tires sing.

[Ray Cecil]

I'm not a fan of Flowmasters, and the 40 Series in particular. My other '81 had one on that 351M and it was terribly noisy. I put a longer Magnaflow on and it was much quieter. And then I could hear the tires sing.

I could always install the glasspacks in-line with the 40 series. I did that on a chevy van once, and it was a nice exhaust. I used a 3" in and 3" out Summit brand glasspack. But it wasn't a bullet style glasspack. Looked like a chambered muffler from the outside, but was straight through and glass packed. SS housing. You really couldn't hear it idle, but at higher rpm's you could just a little bit.

[Ray Cecil]

I could always install the glasspacks in-line with the 40 series. I did that on a chevy van once, and it was a nice exhaust. I used a 3" in and 3" out Summit brand glasspack. But it wasn't a bullet style glasspack. Looked like a chambered muffler from the outside, but was straight through and glass packed. SS housing. You really couldn't hear it idle, but at higher rpm's you could just a little bit.

Alright.....so. Got the choke in last night. It works. The old one was for sure BUSTED.

Anyway, I tried starting the truck this morning and had trouble. I think the choke plate was completely closed. I pulled the air cleaner off and sure enough, no gap in the plate.

So, if I read through everything correctly, with the engine stone cold, there should be a 1/8" gap in the choke plate, correct?

The new choke housing in slightly larger in OD, and has a HARD time turning on the carb. I may need to remove it and file the edges a hair. But, anyway, I think I can mess with it and get it tuned.

This morning was the coldest yet. The engine ran like crap all the way to work. Yesterday, I noticed a little pinging under heavy load. So I retarded the timing just a hair and the pinging disappeared. But, now I have an off-idle bog, once the rpm's come up it lights-up and pulls hard.

Maybe I need to get that choke dialed in first. Then re-set base timing and keep tuning.......Fuel Injection is looking more and more attractive the colder it gets....

[Gary Lewis]

Alright.....so. Got the choke in last night. It works. The old one was for sure BUSTED.

Anyway, I tried starting the truck this morning and had trouble. I think the choke plate was completely closed. I pulled the air cleaner off and sure enough, no gap in the plate.

So, if I read through everything correctly, with the engine stone cold, there should be a 1/8" gap in the choke plate, correct?

The new choke housing in slightly larger in OD, and has a HARD time turning on the carb. I may need to remove it and file the edges a hair. But, anyway, I think I can mess with it and get it tuned.

This morning was the coldest yet. The engine ran like crap all the way to work. Yesterday, I noticed a little pinging under heavy load. So I retarded the timing just a hair and the pinging disappeared. But, now I have an off-idle bog, once the rpm's come up it lights-up and pulls hard.

Maybe I need to get that choke dialed in first. Then re-set base timing and keep tuning.......Fuel Injection is looking more and more attractive the colder it gets....

The way I read the instructions the 1/8" measurement is for the choke unloader, which is when you open the throttle fully. But I can't find a definitive measurement for the cold choke setting.

However, I did find a very informative thread on the topic by our very own David/1986F150Six. In it he appears to say that for his truck backing off the setting by two notches from fully closed worked.

However, what we don't know is how far "closed" the choke housing was. In other words, he said there was strong spring pressure holding the choke closed, so had the housing actually been rotated a notch or two past where the choke plate first fully closed? But he did say that the choke plate opened "very slightly".

So I'd adjust the choke so that the plate was open 1/32" or something like that and try it. And, bear in mind that each engine/carb combo is slightly different, so the "book" setting is just a good starting point. You tune from there.