Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

Little Blue 82


Recommended Posts

That's what I thought. So, Ray, now you have a good reason to go with the EFI manifolds. :nabble_smiley_evil:

You will likely want something like this to add heat to the underside of the intake manifold, since the F.I. manifolds do not connect to the manifold.

Some make their own by using the gasket used between the original intake and exhaust manifolds as a template.

http://autoparts.rasoenterprises.com/intake-manifold-heater-kit-ford-240-300

Couple of questions.

1. Are any 87+ manifolds good to use? Reason I ask, jegs sells dorman, but doesnt list them for 87, but for 95ish+.

2. Why would the hedman headers not work on a 4wd? Seems like all the 4wd stuff is on the other side.

3. Dave, why would I want to add heat to the intake charge? Doesnt that reduce the density of the charge? Thus less power. Whats the real world benefit?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Couple of questions.

1. Are any 87+ manifolds good to use? Reason I ask, jegs sells dorman, but doesnt list them for 87, but for 95ish+.

2. Why would the hedman headers not work on a 4wd? Seems like all the 4wd stuff is on the other side.

3. Dave, why would I want to add heat to the intake charge? Doesnt that reduce the density of the charge? Thus less power. Whats the real world benefit?

I'm sure David will answer the questions tomorrow, but here's what I know.

1. Don't know about 87+ manifolds. That's when the EFI manifolds appeared and they were used at least through '89, which is when my catalog ends.

2. You have a good point about the headers going down the passenger's side. I don't know why that wouldn't work.

3. Heat is needed to atomize the fuel. With a long, flat manifold like that of the 300, without some heat fuel drops out of the mix and the air/fuel ratio goes lean. So some heat is beneficial. But, you are right that heat reduces the # of oxygen molecules that are in a given volume of air, so it does reduce efficiency. Given that, there needs to be a balance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure David will answer the questions tomorrow, but here's what I know.

1. Don't know about 87+ manifolds. That's when the EFI manifolds appeared and they were used at least through '89, which is when my catalog ends.

2. You have a good point about the headers going down the passenger's side. I don't know why that wouldn't work.

3. Heat is needed to atomize the fuel. With a long, flat manifold like that of the 300, without some heat fuel drops out of the mix and the air/fuel ratio goes lean. So some heat is beneficial. But, you are right that heat reduces the # of oxygen molecules that are in a given volume of air, so it does reduce efficiency. Given that, there needs to be a balance.

Gary, I went and took a look at the truck. The only thing that might be close is that two puck transmission mount. But, its pretty far back, id be surprised if the headers hit it. I might chance it. I can always modify the mount if it hits.

I think a header with wrap would look awesome.

I can bolt up a cherry bomb, turn down until I get to the exhaust shop.

Now, I just need to find a good deal on a offenhauser intake. I cant pay $350+ for a new one. Thats pretty crazy.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gary, I went and took a look at the truck. The only thing that might be close is that two puck transmission mount. But, its pretty far back, id be surprised if the headers hit it. I might chance it. I can always modify the mount if it hits.

I think a header with wrap would look awesome.

I can bolt up a cherry bomb, turn down until I get to the exhaust shop.

Now, I just need to find a good deal on a offenhauser intake. I cant pay $350+ for a new one. Thats pretty crazy.

Does anyone know if the 300 six oil pan can drop straight out and not hit the oil pickup? Looks like there might be room. Maybe not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know if the 300 six oil pan can drop straight out and not hit the oil pickup? Looks like there might be room. Maybe not.

David can probably answer the question about the pan. His mechanic had to drop his pan a year and a half ago when the gunk let loose in the engine and plugged the oil pump pickup. I don't know what he had to do to get it off, but David probably will.

On the exhaust and intake, the 300 begs for an upgrade. :nabble_smiley_good:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

David can probably answer the question about the pan. His mechanic had to drop his pan a year and a half ago when the gunk let loose in the engine and plugged the oil pump pickup. I don't know what he had to do to get it off, but David probably will.

On the exhaust and intake, the 300 begs for an upgrade. :nabble_smiley_good:

I think tomorrow I will scope out a couple yards after work. If I can find a good set of exhaust manifolds with a y pipe pretty cheap I will spring for an intake and 2 barrel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think tomorrow I will scope out a couple yards after work. If I can find a good set of exhaust manifolds with a y pipe pretty cheap I will spring for an intake and 2 barrel.

To remove the oil pan, loosen the motor mounts and transmission mount. Raise the engine and place 2X4 blocks to keep in place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To remove the oil pan, loosen the motor mounts and transmission mount. Raise the engine and place 2X4 blocks to keep in place.

I was affraid of that.

If the oil pan is removed, consider modifying the oil pan to accept the 1987 and later 1 piece oil pan gasket.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...