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Little Blue 82


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Also, the clutch pedal travels what seems like 4 feet. haha. Its the last two or three inches of travel upon release that the clutch engages. I either have to get used to this, or maybe adjust to my liking....I will learn more.

I know nothing about the mechanical clutch linkages, but swapping in a hydraulic clutch is an option if all else fails. Hydraulic master, slave, and line are all available new. The hydraulic bell housing and pedal assembly would have to be scavenged from other Bullnose trucks.

 

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The SROD was 80-83 and has the “push” down for reverse... I’m guessing yours does...

Yes, its push down and forward-left.

So the next question, after reading Corey's article, how the heck do I make the SROD shifter feel less sloppy. Apparently they are known for being sloppy.

Also, the clutch pedal travels what seems like 4 feet. haha. Its the last two or three inches of travel upon release that the clutch engages. I either have to get used to this, or maybe adjust to my liking....I will learn more.

T-case is the NP208F (Driveline/Transfer Cases) which was standard.

Let me see if I have Ford's rebuild procedures on the SROD in the factory shop manual. If so I can scan them in and we'll have a new page.

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Also, the clutch pedal travels what seems like 4 feet. haha. Its the last two or three inches of travel upon release that the clutch engages. I either have to get used to this, or maybe adjust to my liking....I will learn more.

I know nothing about the mechanical clutch linkages, but swapping in a hydraulic clutch is an option if all else fails. Hydraulic master, slave, and line are all available new. The hydraulic bell housing and pedal assembly would have to be scavenged from other Bullnose trucks.

I've rebuilt a manual clutch linkage, and it can be done. However, many of the parts are not available so you may have to weld them up and machine them back.

As for hydraulic, that is an option but I wouldn't do it w/o reinforcing the firewall. Read the info on the Clutch Linkage tab here: Driveline/Clutches And Linkage. And, there's a link on there back to FTE where I rebuilt the mechanical linkage.

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I've rebuilt a manual clutch linkage, and it can be done. However, many of the parts are not available so you may have to weld them up and machine them back.

As for hydraulic, that is an option but I wouldn't do it w/o reinforcing the firewall. Read the info on the Clutch Linkage tab here: Driveline/Clutches And Linkage. And, there's a link on there back to FTE where I rebuilt the mechanical linkage.

I will keep the SROD and mechanical linkage. I may drop the xfer case and trans to get access to everything. Pull engine. Freshen up. Re-seal. Rebuild shifter. Remove Cali emissions garbage, get the intake and exhaust mods I want. Slap her back together and drive her a little while.

Building a RockAuto Order now!

 

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I will be ordering a thermal fan clutch, but I see in the spec section on the site my fan won't work. Or will it? Depending on whether I have the 4 or 5 blade. Can the 5 blade with no center hole be machined to fit a thermal clutch, or am I better off just going and getting the right one?

fan.jpg.c7ab67835e82f3a5040d4cc593f5c5c1.jpg

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I will keep the SROD and mechanical linkage. I may drop the xfer case and trans to get access to everything. Pull engine. Freshen up. Re-seal. Rebuild shifter. Remove Cali emissions garbage, get the intake and exhaust mods I want. Slap her back together and drive her a little while.

Building a RockAuto Order now!

We now have the FSM's instructions on the SROD on the site: Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/Single Rail Over Drive (OD).

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I will be ordering a thermal fan clutch, but I see in the spec section on the site my fan won't work. Or will it? Depending on whether I have the 4 or 5 blade. Can the 5 blade with no center hole be machined to fit a thermal clutch, or am I better off just going and getting the right one?

Also, the front drive shaft slip yoke is shot. Should the entire driveshaft be replaced, or can I fix the slip yoke?

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I will be ordering a thermal fan clutch, but I see in the spec section on the site my fan won't work. Or will it? Depending on whether I have the 4 or 5 blade. Can the 5 blade with no center hole be machined to fit a thermal clutch, or am I better off just going and getting the right one?

I doubt it would be easy to machine a fan w/the small hole, and even if it could be I doubt it would be worth it. They should easily be available in the salvage.

If you look in the part numbers it looks like you want E3TZ 8600-G. And that was used on:

  • 83/86 E-Series w/300 & 302

  • 83/87 E-Series w/351W

  • 83/86 F100/250 & Bronco w/a 302 and no A/C

  • 83/87 F100/350 & Bronco w/351W and no A/C
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Also, the front drive shaft slip yoke is shot. Should the entire driveshaft be replaced, or can I fix the slip yoke?

I had new splines put on Dad's driveshaft and a new slip yoke added. Can be done. But might be cheaper to have a new driveshaft made. I'm going to have to have driveshaft work done on Dad's truck as well, and will be comparing new to rebuilt, but you are ahead of me.

Maybe someone else can steer us?

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