Ray Cecil Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Try loosening the three screws on the choke cap and turning it. You may not have the pin in the spring inside. It needs to go in the loop on the end of the clockspring. So what have you removed from the engine in an effort to eliminate all that emissions crap? EGR? Factory air cleaner? Charcoal canisters? Thermal vacuum switches? Climate control reservoir? ??? Need to know what you still have, before I can tell you what you need to keep. The only vacuum I need is: Brake booster HEI distributor And the vacuum diaphragm on the choke. I have no other accessories that use vacuum. Heater is all cable driven. I tried turning the choke to full open once it warmed up. I am letting it cool down now. If the choke plate is still wide open once it cools, I should know something is wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 The only vacuum I need is: Brake booster HEI distributor And the vacuum diaphragm on the choke. I have no other accessories that use vacuum. Heater is all cable driven. I tried turning the choke to full open once it warmed up. I am letting it cool down now. If the choke plate is still wide open once it cools, I should know something is wrong. Well according to your schematic there is a vacuum reservoir. What about the blend door motor by the passenger hood hinge? (IDK '83) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Well according to your schematic there is a vacuum reservoir. What about the blend door motor by the passenger hood hinge? (IDK '83) The blend door is cable operated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Well according to your schematic there is a vacuum reservoir. What about the blend door motor by the passenger hood hinge? (IDK '83) The blend door is cable operated. It cooled down. The choke was still wide open. I removed the choke to inspect the coil on the back. Its intact. However, if you shake the choke housing I hear a bunch of rattling. I wonder if some solder on the contact came loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 It cooled down. The choke was still wide open. I removed the choke to inspect the coil on the back. Its intact. However, if you shake the choke housing I hear a bunch of rattling. I wonder if some solder on the contact came loose. Went ahead and ordered a new choke just to rule it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 Went ahead and ordered a new choke just to rule it out. I just had a thought. The 7volts to the choke has to go somewhere. Meaning, what completes the ground side? Usually, its grounded to the engine through the contact with the intake. I have accidently isolated the carb from comleting this circuit. I have an Ash carb spacer, and rubber hose connecting the fuel line. The air cleaner bolts to the block....so there is that.... I may make up a ground strap just to make up for any lack of carb grounding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted October 6, 2019 Author Share Posted October 6, 2019 I just had a thought. The 7volts to the choke has to go somewhere. Meaning, what completes the ground side? Usually, its grounded to the engine through the contact with the intake. I have accidently isolated the carb from comleting this circuit. I have an Ash carb spacer, and rubber hose connecting the fuel line. The air cleaner bolts to the block....so there is that.... I may make up a ground strap just to make up for any lack of carb grounding. Nevermind, I am an idiot. The carb mounting studs should ground the carb to the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Nevermind, I am an idiot. The carb mounting studs should ground the carb to the engine. Ray - Some of the chokes did have a ground stud that has a wire to the carb itself. 4 bbbl Carters/Edelbrocks do. But illustration of the YF doesn't show one. Check the bi-metallic coil to see if it works by setting the choke cap aside and letting it get to room temp. Then mark where the hooked end of the coil is and hold it over something hot. The end should move. And with the cap off check that the linkage works the choke smoothly. It may be binding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 6, 2019 Share Posted October 6, 2019 Ray - Some of the chokes did have a ground stud that has a wire to the carb itself. 4 bbbl Carters/Edelbrocks do. But illustration of the YF doesn't show one. Check the bi-metallic coil to see if it works by setting the choke cap aside and letting it get to room temp. Then mark where the hooked end of the coil is and hold it over something hot. The end should move. And with the cap off check that the linkage works the choke smoothly. It may be binding. Put it in the freezer too. What really matters is that it holds shut in the cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 7, 2019 Share Posted October 7, 2019 Well according to your schematic there is a vacuum reservoir. What about the blend door motor by the passenger hood hinge? (IDK '83) The blend door is cable operated. Nvm, I'm on my tablet now and see it is used for the bypass valve. So, I think you should probably keep the thermal vacuum switch that provides manifold vacuum to the distributor in case of overheating. If this is just a toy, no need, but if stuck in traffic it's nice to raise the idle (increase fan and pump speed) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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