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Little Blue 82


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Did I ask why the HEI dist.? The one you have would work just fine.

Its easy, cleaner looking, 1-wire, and I have chevy blood...:nabble_smiley_wink:. The stock dizzy had a bunch of wires coming out of it. I don' t need them, because I removed that computer thingy, californication smog doodads etc. I was under the impression that computer doodad thingy that seems totally unnecessary, was controlling timing somehow. Was it not? If not, then I am really confused as to what the heck that yellow grommited pooter is for...:nabble_anim_confused:

That "computer thingy" is the Duraspark II ignition module and it just fires the spark plugs. It performs the same function that the HEI ignition module does but gets better airflow since it is not stuffed inside a distributor cap.

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That "computer thingy" is the Duraspark II ignition module and it just fires the spark plugs. It performs the same function that the HEI ignition module does but gets better airflow since it is not stuffed inside a distributor cap.

 

That "computer thingy" is the Duraspark II ignition module and it just fires the spark plugs. It performs the same function that the HEI ignition module does but gets better airflow since it is not stuffed inside a distributor cap.

:nabble_anim_confused:

When I removed the smog junk, all the wires in the smog junk went to that box. I dont understand how I am supposed to sell all the smog junk to someone who needs it, while retaining the yellow grommited pooter thingy. The pooter should go to whoever needs all that stuff, including the dizzy.

I understand that an HEI has a module inside the cap, but GM had used HEI for many years, I have too, and have never had any overheating issues.

So, left with no pooter, and no dizzy, I went with what is familiar and easy. HEI drops in, and goes. All I have to do is run a switched 12v with enough current. Thus the relay harness pulling directly from the battery.

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That "computer thingy" is the Duraspark II ignition module and it just fires the spark plugs. It performs the same function that the HEI ignition module does but gets better airflow since it is not stuffed inside a distributor cap.

:nabble_anim_confused:

When I removed the smog junk, all the wires in the smog junk went to that box. I dont understand how I am supposed to sell all the smog junk to someone who needs it, while retaining the yellow grommited pooter thingy. The pooter should go to whoever needs all that stuff, including the dizzy.

I understand that an HEI has a module inside the cap, but GM had used HEI for many years, I have too, and have never had any overheating issues.

So, left with no pooter, and no dizzy, I went with what is familiar and easy. HEI drops in, and goes. All I have to do is run a switched 12v with enough current. Thus the relay harness pulling directly from the battery.

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Well....lets see if this fits. Wow, fast shipping from Summit. Ordered saturday and got it monday.

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Well....lets see if this fits. Wow, fast shipping from Summit. Ordered saturday and got it monday.

Fits. But, not sure how you put a starter back in it. You have to remove starter to get it in. Hmmmmm, no room to re-install starter. Heck, its a four speed I'll just push start it!!! Maybe Gary can engineer a pull starter for it. Sit in the cab and pull it. Lol.:nabble_anim_working:

 

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Fits. But, not sure how you put a starter back in it. You have to remove starter to get it in. Hmmmmm, no room to re-install starter. Heck, its a four speed I'll just push start it!!! Maybe Gary can engineer a pull starter for it. Sit in the cab and pull it. Lol.:nabble_anim_working:

Nice looking, but could you push-start it?

And a PMGR starter is much smaller.

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Nice looking, but could you push-start it?

Surely you knew I was joking.

Anywho, the trick to getting the starter and header installed is to take the starter completely out. Drop in header and let it just rest on the frame. Finagle the starter into place, hold your mouth right, say three hail marrys, and kiss your sister.....itll all go together.

MERICA

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And now take it all back apart to start prep for engine painting and oil pan removal.

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GIT R DUN

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Nice looking, but could you push-start it?

Surely you knew I was joking.

Anywho, the trick to getting the starter and header installed is to take the starter completely out. Drop in header and let it just rest on the frame. Finagle the starter into place, hold your mouth right, say three hail marrys, and kiss your sister.....itll all go together.

MERICA

And now take it all back apart to start prep for engine painting and oil pan removal.

GIT R DUN

I will be fitting the cherry picker to the engine, removing motor mounts, removing pan, and painting block in place. Im working on gravel....so I wont be able to just go ahead and pull engine for paint. If I could role the engine hoist, Id pull it and paint it.

Still needs some grease and gunk removal. Going to spend the rest of the week detailing the engine and tins.

Going to go with the factory gray. I think I have enough blue on the truck.

The header comes with cheap rattle can paint to prevent rust. I will take the propane torch and cook it off. Hand sand and apply high temp coating. Black? I think so...what do you think?

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I will be fitting the cherry picker to the engine, removing motor mounts, removing pan, and painting block in place. Im working on gravel....so I wont be able to just go ahead and pull engine for paint. If I could role the engine hoist, Id pull it and paint it.

Still needs some grease and gunk removal. Going to spend the rest of the week detailing the engine and tins.

Going to go with the factory gray. I think I have enough blue on the truck.

The header comes with cheap rattle can paint to prevent rust. I will take the propane torch and cook it off. Hand sand and apply high temp coating. Black? I think so...what do you think?

For looks black is good. But, not so for the life of the starter nor economy. Black radiates heat well, so the starter will be baked. And, the removed energy reduces the flow and, therefore, the power and economy. White is the better choice for that. Or silver.

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For looks black is good. But, not so for the life of the starter nor economy. Black radiates heat well, so the starter will be baked. And, the removed energy reduces the flow and, therefore, the power and economy. White is the better choice for that. Or silver.

Black does not reflect sunlight, thats why its always hotter. Ive never heard someone tell me a certain color radiates better than another. How does color have any affect on the surface temp of an exhaust tube? Not saying you are wrong, but please do explain how color affect heat radiation.

As far as the starter goes, I thought I might wrap it, or wrap the header. I dont know yet.

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