Hello all! Looking at buying an '84 F250 6.9

[Notch5oh]

I would love your input. I found a 1984 F250 4x4 with an idi and a 4 speed on ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-Ford-F-250-XL-2dr-4WD-Standard-Cab-LB-HD/283424858703?hash=item41fd70224f:g:abgAAOSwx~lckrB5

The truck seems to be original but in rough shape. I'm not afraid of restoration, but I don't do rot repair! So it seems like a good candidate.

My first question is... in good condition, are these trucks reliable enough to drive every day?

Second is... any concern with Canadian built trucks? History of this particular 250 has it built in Canada and living life in Idaho then Arizona.

Any answers and opinions appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Gary Lewis]

First, welcome to the forum!

Second, where are you located? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to add you to it.

Third, these truck certainly can be reliable enough to be daily drivers. And that one may be just about there. It looks like a gear-splitter behind the transfer case, and as explained in the description that should allow higher highway speeds. I don't know which gear-splitter it is, but Jonathan will know and will probably be along to answer in a bit.

The truck has 3.54 gears, according to the certification label, and a T19 tranny. That's what I have in Big Blue, and he goes down the highway at 65 MPH turning 2500 RPM. That's too much, so the gear-splitter will be like and overdrive, bringing the R's down.

And, no concern on Canadian-built trucks.

Anyway, nice truck. If you buy it you should start a thread on it in the main section.

 

[Notch5oh]

First, welcome to the forum!

Second, where are you located? We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'd be happy to add you to it.

Third, these truck certainly can be reliable enough to be daily drivers. And that one may be just about there. It looks like a gear-splitter behind the transfer case, and as explained in the description that should allow higher highway speeds. I don't know which gear-splitter it is, but Jonathan will know and will probably be along to answer in a bit.

The truck has 3.54 gears, according to the certification label, and a T19 tranny. That's what I have in Big Blue, and he goes down the highway at 65 MPH turning 2500 RPM. That's too much, so the gear-splitter will be like and overdrive, bringing the R's down.

And, no concern on Canadian-built trucks.

Anyway, nice truck. If you buy it you should start a thread on it in the main section.

Thanks! I'm in Massachusetts.

I did notice the aftermarket overdrive unit. Not a bad feature to have.

I wish I knew more about value on the 80-'86 Fords. It looks like the bid has gone up $500 just in the time since I posted. So much for a sub $4k bargain.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks! I'm in Massachusetts.

I did notice the aftermarket overdrive unit. Not a bad feature to have.

I wish I knew more about value on the 80-'86 Fords. It looks like the bid has gone up $500 just in the time since I posted. So much for a sub $4k bargain.

You can peruse the Ebay & Craigslist Finds to get an idea of what things are being listed at - not necessarily sold at.

In Ohio, the buckle of the rust belt, that will go for more than it would in AZ or the Pacific Northwest. So it is hard to say what it will go for. Perhaps others will have some idea?

As for the map, I can't just say "Mass". I have to have a city.

[Notch5oh]

You can peruse the Ebay & Craigslist Finds to get an idea of what things are being listed at - not necessarily sold at.

In Ohio, the buckle of the rust belt, that will go for more than it would in AZ or the Pacific Northwest. So it is hard to say what it will go for. Perhaps others will have some idea?

As for the map, I can't just say "Mass". I have to have a city.

Sorry, Gloucester, MA.

I am at a disadvantage needing to ship vehicles. I've also been looking in southern California because I have contacts. It's difficult to out bid when you know there's another $1500-2000 involved in the transaction. I gave up on any truck with a 12v Cummins or a Powerstroke because the prices were approaching $20,000 once I got it to my driveway.

I love the bullnose Fords, but I hope I don't end up paying $10,000 for a truck that needs serious help.

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry, Gloucester, MA.

I am at a disadvantage needing to ship vehicles. I've also been looking in southern California because I have contacts. It's difficult to out bid when you know there's another $1500-2000 involved in the transaction. I gave up on any truck with a 12v Cummins or a Powerstroke because the prices were approaching $20,000 once I got it to my driveway.

I love the bullnose Fords, but I hope I don't end up paying $10,000 for a truck that needs serious help.

You are now on the map.

My advice is to NEVER buy something that you pull out of a field, or something that can't be driven to test it. That is, unless you are buying it to part out.

And, if you are looking for something to drive, then buy one near the top of what you'd be willing to pay. It is always less expensive to buy it that way than to put it that way. (Notice I didn't say "cheaper" as there's nothing cheap about fixing up an old truck.)

The best bet is to find one that is currently being driving daily, or almost daily. Those typically don't have the problems that cause you to break down along the road when driving it home.

[grumpin]

Sorry, Gloucester, MA.

I am at a disadvantage needing to ship vehicles. I've also been looking in southern California because I have contacts. It's difficult to out bid when you know there's another $1500-2000 involved in the transaction. I gave up on any truck with a 12v Cummins or a Powerstroke because the prices were approaching $20,000 once I got it to my driveway.

I love the bullnose Fords, but I hope I don't end up paying $10,000 for a truck that needs serious help.

Welcome!

One thing I always assumed is that the diesels were put in the HD F250's, i.e. 8800 GVWR.

I agree with Gary that the price, rust free, will be more in that area.

[Ford F834]

Hello, I don’t know if it matters since the bidding is going up... but the aftermarket overdrive is a Gear Vendor’s .78 conical clutch gearbox and rear case adapter for the BW1345 transfer case. I have one... and it will certainly give you nice mileage with the 3.55’s. These things really need tall gearing. They cost around $3,000 new and on the used market around $1,000 +/-

On the reliability... these are all mechanical and only require one wire to run. They are very simple and can be dead reliable... but they have to be maintained right. Too often they are plagued with air intrusion, glow plug problems and worn fuel system parts that make them not want to start. You have to take care of them or they will leave you hanging.

If you are talking about a full restoration and want to rebuild the engine, I would avoid anything before late ‘85 because the press in piston oilers and associated tools are obsolete. You can rebuild them once, and glue them in with red locktite, but I personally cringe at investing in an engine like that. You would be better off finding a late block or 7.3 IDI. And don’t go by the year of the truck as so many have crate engines in them now. Check the serial number by the injection pump housing.

 

[Notch5oh]

Hello, I don’t know if it matters since the bidding is going up... but the aftermarket overdrive is a Gear Vendor’s .78 conical clutch gearbox and rear case adapter for the BW1345 transfer case. I have one... and it will certainly give you nice mileage with the 3.55’s. These things really need tall gearing. They cost around $3,000 new and on the used market around $1,000 +/-

On the reliability... these are all mechanical and only require one wire to run. They are very simple and can be dead reliable... but they have to be maintained right. Too often they are plagued with air intrusion, glow plug problems and worn fuel system parts that make them not want to start. You have to take care of them or they will leave you hanging.

If you are talking about a full restoration and want to rebuild the engine, I would avoid anything before late ‘85 because the press in piston oilers and associated tools are obsolete. You can rebuild them once, and glue them in with red locktite, but I personally cringe at investing in an engine like that. You would be better off finding a late block or 7.3 IDI. And don’t go by the year of the truck as so many have crate engines in them now. Check the serial number by the injection pump housing.

Excellent info. Thanks!

I would really like to stick to a partial restoration so I can drive it and not be worried about the smallest imperfections all the time. That's why the rust free trucks are so tempting. Clean it, make it mechanically sound, and drive away. I would probably switch to a later 7.3 idi if a rebuild was ever necessary.

If someone came along with a restored truck I would be open to it, but I certainly don't have the time to do a full frame-off resto.

[Gary Lewis]

Excellent info. Thanks!

I would really like to stick to a partial restoration so I can drive it and not be worried about the smallest imperfections all the time. That's why the rust free trucks are so tempting. Clean it, make it mechanically sound, and drive away. I would probably switch to a later 7.3 idi if a rebuild was ever necessary.

If someone came along with a restored truck I would be open to it, but I certainly don't have the time to do a full frame-off resto.

Frame-off restorations might be ok. But they frequently turn into restomod's, and those can get expensive. And never-ending. (Don't ask. )