Quarterwave Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Hi everyone, It looks like the gasket on my C6 is leaking and so I'm looking to change the pan, gasket and filter - most likely using a deeper transmission sump pan in the process. Here is what I'm looking at: https://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/428000/10002/-1 Are there any tips/tricks that I should know about for the removal/install, and what type of trans oil is recommended for the C6 (and how much)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Nice pan! Here's a link to a gasket I bought. It's the reusable type. I have not put it on yet so I cannot report on it. Our Suburban has one similar to this one and I really like it. Although it is not as thick as this one. This one is about 1/4" thick. I also bought one for the E4OD in my Bronco. Haven't got it installed either. My thought is to tighten it up in a cross pattern and torque it the same way. My 1986 manual says Oil Pan to Case 8-12 ft-lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Yes, that is a very nice pan. And, it has what I think is a requirement - a drain plug. I've said I'll not replace a pan w/o placing a drain plug in it. Tips for pulling the existing pan? Get a big catch pan, lots of paper towels, and cleaner with which to clean up the mess. YUK! I haven't done it w/o making a huge mess. The manual says to loosen all the bolts and pry down one corner to drain the pan, but I've not had good luck doing that. The fluid drains from a wide area and creates quite a mess. Trans oil - the specs call for Dexron II. But I'd go with synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Yes, that is a very nice pan. And, it has what I think is a requirement - a drain plug. I've said I'll not replace a pan w/o placing a drain plug in it. Tips for pulling the existing pan? Get a big catch pan, lots of paper towels, and cleaner with which to clean up the mess. YUK! I haven't done it w/o making a huge mess. The manual says to loosen all the bolts and pry down one corner to drain the pan, but I've not had good luck doing that. The fluid drains from a wide area and creates quite a mess. Trans oil - the specs call for Dexron II. But I'd go with synthetic. FYI, Dexron II is synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 FYI, Dexron II is synthetic. Thanks everyone. Do I need any sealant on the gasket or does it just go straight on after cleaning both surfaces? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Thanks everyone. Do I need any sealant on the gasket or does it just go straight on after cleaning both surfaces? Personally I would not use sealant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6.9-250 Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 I just changed the filter and fluid in my C6. I also welded a bung in the pan and hooked up a temperature gauge, while it was off. Best info I read on sealing it back up is putting RTV on the pan side only. Reason being is that the pan mating surface can have inconsistencies. Such as people tightening the bolts too much, prying to hard and bending when removed, etc. The RTV will fill those small gaps. The trans side surface is solid and machined and it likely to be flat. I put a thin Layer of RTV on the pan side, place gasket on and installed on the trans. Finger tight bolts for 1 hour then tightened to spec as per the RTV instructions. I replaced the filter but when I removed it I realized that it may not be necessary. It is just a mesh screen which looks like it could just be cleaned. For the price of the filter/gasket kit though, it may not be worth it. Trans oil requirement should be right on the dipstick. Should be dex 2 though. Dex 2 is not made anymore as far as I know. Dex 3, 4, etc will replace it. Dex 6 is the synthetic version. I bought dex 6 intending to use it but there is still conflicting info on full compatibility. There are additives that may not be good for this trans. I used Pennzoil DEX/MERC ATF (50042067) for now. I asked for Dex 3 and thats what they gave me. Anything with Dex 3 on the container is good. I drained the torque converter and trans cooler and lines as well. The trans had about 6 liters and the torque converter held about 4 from what I recall. Some spilled into the large pan that I did not measure. Ended up putting back about 12 liters or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share Posted March 21, 2019 I just changed the filter and fluid in my C6. I also welded a bung in the pan and hooked up a temperature gauge, while it was off. Best info I read on sealing it back up is putting RTV on the pan side only. Reason being is that the pan mating surface can have inconsistencies. Such as people tightening the bolts too much, prying to hard and bending when removed, etc. The RTV will fill those small gaps. The trans side surface is solid and machined and it likely to be flat. I put a thin Layer of RTV on the pan side, place gasket on and installed on the trans. Finger tight bolts for 1 hour then tightened to spec as per the RTV instructions. I replaced the filter but when I removed it I realized that it may not be necessary. It is just a mesh screen which looks like it could just be cleaned. For the price of the filter/gasket kit though, it may not be worth it. Trans oil requirement should be right on the dipstick. Should be dex 2 though. Dex 2 is not made anymore as far as I know. Dex 3, 4, etc will replace it. Dex 6 is the synthetic version. I bought dex 6 intending to use it but there is still conflicting info on full compatibility. There are additives that may not be good for this trans. I used Pennzoil DEX/MERC ATF (50042067) for now. I asked for Dex 3 and thats what they gave me. Anything with Dex 3 on the container is good. I drained the torque converter and trans cooler and lines as well. The trans had about 6 liters and the torque converter held about 4 from what I recall. Some spilled into the large pan that I did not measure. Ended up putting back about 12 liters or so. Ok, thanks everyone. So what is the consensus: 1) RTV sealant on the pan side only - correct, or none at all? If so, this is what I was thinking of using: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/28031/10002/-1 2) Fluid - confusing for me to know what is compatible with what.... it seems that Dex 3 is compatible with Dex 2 and I was thinking 10 quarts of this (given that the new pan will hold 2 more quarts than factory) as it seems to cover all: https://www.jegs.com/i/Valvoline/949/VV341/10002/-1 3) How can I flush out the converter without running it dry? I've also reached out to the manufacturer, and hopefully they'll provide some answers. I'll post here if they do. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6.9-250 Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 Ok, thanks everyone. So what is the consensus: 1) RTV sealant on the pan side only - correct, or none at all? If so, this is what I was thinking of using: https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/28031/10002/-1 2) Fluid - confusing for me to know what is compatible with what.... it seems that Dex 3 is compatible with Dex 2 and I was thinking 10 quarts of this (given that the new pan will hold 2 more quarts than factory) as it seems to cover all: https://www.jegs.com/i/Valvoline/949/VV341/10002/-1 3) How can I flush out the converter without running it dry? I've also reached out to the manufacturer, and hopefully they'll provide some answers. I'll post here if they do. Thanks again. #3 - Not sure about the flushing the converter. I just drained mine. Remove the inspection cover below the converter. Rotate the flywheel/converter using the crank bolt on the front of the engine to access the drain plug. It is beside one of the flywheel bolts. On my 6.9 I had decent access to the drain plug at about the 4-5 o'clock position (facing the engine from the front). Once I had the plug out, I used the crank bolt to turn the drain plug to the 6 o'clock position so it could fully drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 29, 2019 Share Posted March 29, 2019 #3 - Not sure about the flushing the converter. I just drained mine. Remove the inspection cover below the converter. Rotate the flywheel/converter using the crank bolt on the front of the engine to access the drain plug. It is beside one of the flywheel bolts. On my 6.9 I had decent access to the drain plug at about the 4-5 o'clock position (facing the engine from the front). Once I had the plug out, I used the crank bolt to turn the drain plug to the 6 o'clock position so it could fully drain. I'm sorry, somehow I missed the question. I don't know how to flush the converter either. I've just refilled and gone on. As for the amount and type of fluid, a 2wd C6 takes 23.8 pints to completely refill it, so basically 12 quarts. So with your deep pan you'll need 14 quarts, but only fill to the Full line after having started it and shifted through the gears with maybe 11 quarts in it. And I'd use Dexron II, which Bill said is synthetic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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