Quarterwave Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Hi everyone, Just wondering what brand/types everyone is using for their power steering pump and steering boxes. Mine is leaking (location of leak TBD) and as I'm running 33" all terrains, I was thinking about just putting in a heavy duty steering box and if needed, steering pump. Any recommendations are appreciated in advance. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 There are pump options other than what came stock in the Bullnose afaik, but I just bought a new one on Rockauto and swapped over my old pulley. It has been working fine what little I used it. For the steering box itself, I ordered a RedHead Gear, but have not installed it yet. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/ I think Redhead and Blue Top are your two main options for steering gears that are better than stock and stock (reman) replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 There are pump options other than what came stock in the Bullnose afaik, but I just bought a new one on Rockauto and swapped over my old pulley. It has been working fine what little I used it. For the steering box itself, I ordered a RedHead Gear, but have not installed it yet. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/ I think Redhead and Blue Top are your two main options for steering gears that are better than stock and stock (reman) replacements. Cory/Rembrant is right - there are essentially two options for a good steering box - Readhead or Blue Top. The original box used the cast iron case as a bearing on the front end of the shaft. They get worn there, but when rebuilt only those two outfits do something about it. They bore the box out and put a real bearing in there, so the box is better than new. As for the P/S pump, there are two options - the original Ford C2 pump or the Saginaw as used on the vans. The Sag is the better pump, doesn't whine, and doesn't puke fluid all over if you turn the wheel with the engine off. But you'll have to source a complete pump and bracket system from a van to make it work as they mount differently than the C2 pumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 Cory/Rembrant is right - there are essentially two options for a good steering box - Readhead or Blue Top. The original box used the cast iron case as a bearing on the front end of the shaft. They get worn there, but when rebuilt only those two outfits do something about it. They bore the box out and put a real bearing in there, so the box is better than new. As for the P/S pump, there are two options - the original Ford C2 pump or the Saginaw as used on the vans. The Sag is the better pump, doesn't whine, and doesn't puke fluid all over if you turn the wheel with the engine off. But you'll have to source a complete pump and bracket system from a van to make it work as they mount differently than the C2 pumps. Ok, thanks guys. I'll start doing some more research online. Appreciate it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted March 11, 2019 Author Share Posted March 11, 2019 There are pump options other than what came stock in the Bullnose afaik, but I just bought a new one on Rockauto and swapped over my old pulley. It has been working fine what little I used it. For the steering box itself, I ordered a RedHead Gear, but have not installed it yet. https://redheadsteeringgears.com/ I think Redhead and Blue Top are your two main options for steering gears that are better than stock and stock (reman) replacements. Rembrandt - is this the one? https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/ .. and do you know if it is it bolt-in or are mods needed? Also, given back-yard tools and know-how, how long should this job take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Rembrandt - is this the one? https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/ .. and do you know if it is it bolt-in or are mods needed? Also, given back-yard tools and know-how, how long should this job take? It is a direct bolt-in replacement of the original. There are three long bolts through the frame. You'll need a big socket to get the pitman arm nut off. 1 5/16" should do the trick. You'll also need a pitman arm puller if you don't have one. Any auto parts shop should have one...or you can order online. I bought a cheap one and while it did work, it only lasted the one use (buggered up the threads on it). Should be able to swap the box out in an hour or so by the time you break all the bolts loose, disconnect the hoses and steering shaft, etc. Refill with fluid and test. Maybe a little longer if you're taking your time. Check the steering shaft for slop as well (while you're working in there). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Obviously you need to start with the part on your truck that is actually failed, but if you are running big tires (or even if you are not) I highly recommend the Saginaw conversion. The steering ease is really nice, and much quieter and less leaky as already pointed out. You need the bracket, pump with pulley, and high pressure hose since the fitting is different than the C2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 Rembrandt - is this the one? https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/ .. and do you know if it is it bolt-in or are mods needed? Also, given back-yard tools and know-how, how long should this job take? If you're pulling the pitman arm, I recommend doing that while the box is still on the truck. If you're swapping the pump at the same time, I'd pull it 2nd; then swap the box; then put the new pump on, then reinstall the pitman arm & tie rods. This shows the best style of puller: https://supermotors.net/getfile/842986/thumbnail/pitmanpuller1.jpg The captions in this album explain how to swap in a Saginaw: https://supermotors.net/getfile/881928/thumbnail/03compare.jpg Refer to this TSB before starting the job: https://supermotors.net/getfile/520094/thumbnail/steeringcrack.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarterwave Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 If you're pulling the pitman arm, I recommend doing that while the box is still on the truck. If you're swapping the pump at the same time, I'd pull it 2nd; then swap the box; then put the new pump on, then reinstall the pitman arm & tie rods. This shows the best style of puller: https://supermotors.net/getfile/842986/thumbnail/pitmanpuller1.jpg The captions in this album explain how to swap in a Saginaw: https://supermotors.net/getfile/881928/thumbnail/03compare.jpg Refer to this TSB before starting the job: https://supermotors.net/getfile/520094/thumbnail/steeringcrack.jpg Ok, thanks everyone. Just a couple more questions... 1) Here is the parts list I have currently: Power steering pump with bracket to suit my 351W: https://www.jegs.com/i/Borgeson/153/800330/10002/-1 Steering box: https://redheadsteeringgears.com/product/1980-97-ford-f-series-with-2-bolt-top-cover/ Pitman arm puller: https://www.harborfreight.com/tie-rod-and-pitman-arm-puller-63684.html ... am I missing anything (aside from the large socket)? Also, what send/return lines do I need? I bought one of each off RockAuto recently and the threaded nut on one of the flared tube ends was about two-thirds the size (smaller) than the current one on the truck. These are old lines and rubber, so I figure I might as well get new lines while I'm at it. Lastly, do I need to pull out the A/C compressor or can that stay in? Any help is appreciated, as I'll probably do this one myself. Gary - would you like me to take a bunch of pics when I do this? Perhaps make it a tutorial of installing a heavy duty steering box and the Econoline power steering pump for the website? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Also, what send/return lines do I need? I bought one of each off RockAuto recently and the threaded nut on one of the flared tube ends was about two-thirds the size (smaller) than the current one on the truck. The nuts are two different sizes. The pressure line hex is probably 1/2", and the return line hex is more like 5/8". I bought both lines new from RockAuto myself. Pressure line options here: (For stock power steering pump). https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1985,f-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1121588,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320 Return line options here: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1985,f-150,5.8l+351cid+v8,1121588,steering,power+steering+return+hose,7324 You'll see that the return lines are W/ cooler, or W/O cooler. Probably better to go with the cooler line. I installed a return line without the cooler as that is what my truck originally came with. However, when I do get around to installing my new RedHead steering gear this spring, I might throw a cooler line on there for what little they are worth. Not sure what mods are needed for the pressure line with the Saginaw pump. Jon will know. If you need new clamps to mount the return line on the frame, just get some cushion clamps. Your originals may be fine, but they rust and fall off up here in the land of salt;). Available everywhere. https://www.amazon.com/Cushion-Clamps-pack-25/dp/B00NV8YXHE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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